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Broken Tooth Mostly Trad climbing 30 routes in cliff

30
YDS
5.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c5.12a5.12c

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Indian Creek Canyon

Some of the land is private, most is public (BLM) land, please check the maps.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.12 ★★★ Rythm method Trad 66ft
2
5.11 ★★★ Rock Lobster Trad 110ft
3
5.11 broken tooth Trad 82ft
4
5.12a ★★ Inflictor Trad 100ft
5
5.11b ★★★ PolyGrip Trad 110ft
6
5.10+ ★★ The Incisor Trad 70ft

Right when you get to the top of the approach trail, this is the offwidth that splits up the prominent leaning pillar. Starts with a hand to wide-hand crack then a rightward leaning offwidth crack to a roof. Pull through the roof and more offwidth climbing leads to the anchor. Really fun route.

7
5.12- Mondo Trad 150ft
8
5.12 Chemotherapy Trad 70ft
9
5.10+ Midnight Oil Trad 55ft
10
5.10+ Blue Sky Mining Trad 50ft
11
5.11- Unnamed Classic Hand Crack / Gold Crown Trad 120ft
12
5.11 Phantom Pinnacle Trad
13
5.11 Numbing The Wild Trad 60ft
14
5.10 Dental Floss Tycoon Trad 150ft
15
5.11- Brown Baby Teeth Trad 80ft
16
5.11+ Heat Searcher Trad 190ft, 2
17
5.11- Novacaine Trad 70ft
18
5.12+ Mushrooms With Hefner Trad 150ft, 2
19
5.11- Terminal Fistula Trad 100ft
20
5.11+ Root Canal Trad 100ft
21
5.10 Gingivitis Trad 120ft, 2
22
5.11+ Dentist Chair Trad 150ft
23
5.12 Unbelievable Trad 90ft
24
5.12 Insoluble Trad 80ft
25
5.12- Dynamic Dentistry Trad 45ft
26
5.11- Tooth Fairy Trad 120ft
27
5.12- Biggie Smiles Trad 130ft
28
5.11 Snaggle Tooth Trad 110ft
29
5.10+ Tooth Pac Trad 110ft
30
5.12+ Low Fang Sport

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Creek Freak: Indian Creek Climbs

Author(s): Karl Kelley

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781892540355

Sharp End:
Located in the northern part of Bears Ears National Monument in Utah, Indian Creek is renowned for its sandstone crack climbing. Plan your visit with Creek Freak: Indian Creek Climbs.

Includes first ascent info, history and historical photos, overview maps, gear beta, required rope lengths, route length, camping beta and detailed cliff photos

Buy
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5.11b ★★★ PolyGrip

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