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  1. From a small clearing with slopping blocky section which includes a small semi-detached pillar, aim for the fixed 3x bong anchor.

  2. Traverse right to the bolted belay/rap anchor, the bigger horizontal crack holds gear, but it's also the best thing to use as a ramp for your feet... can be very spooky/exposed/run-out.

  3. Head straight up the face, pulling the large flakes, up the corner with the tree, belay with natural pro on the ledge.

  4. Go straight up from the little cave and do a balancy move to the left flake, head up the easiest path, past a 2 tree doulble ledge and up a ramp to the left up to the base of aireation buttress.

For a safer second traverse: trail a second rope or use doubles and merge pitch 2 and 3 together, only using a single rope after passing the last piece of pro at the beginning of the traverse, run this rope on the left side of the tree when climbing the chimney on pitch 3, this way, you can better protect your second across the traverse.

Route history

1956First ascent: John Turner & Craig Merrihue

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 44.06516, -71.16757

Grade citation

5.6 Assigned grade
Andrew DeChristopher
5.6 Rock Climbing New England
5 pitch (5.3, 5.6, 5.5, 5.6, 5.2) private
II 5.6 Justus Zimmerman

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 73 from 41 ratings.

Difficulty - 5.6

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

5.6

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 17
Flash 2
Red point 1
Tick 33
Pink point 1
Target 2

Comment keywords

traverse superb good classic great awesome fun difficult hard

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tim Kemple

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781938393303

From the granite blocks of Lincoln Woods, Rhode Island, to the schist of Smugglers' Notch, Vermont, you're bound to find your next problem in the New England Bouldering guidebook.

  • Comprehensive, revised 3rd edition features more than 1,200 boulder problems at some of the best bouldering areas throughout New England
  • Detailed maps help you find your next bouldering challenge with ease

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 2 Jun
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