Routes in White Mountains for selected grade

0: Get to the starting anchor somehow.

1. Depart the anchor and clip a pin. Follow flake, then continue up and left to a two bolt anchor.

2. Climb past a bolt in the swell. Continue up to another bolted anchor.

3. Climb up and left to a small vertical section that leads to the lunch ledge .

4. Climb easy terrain to a bolt. Surmount the slick slab. Continue up to a belay.

Finish up 'Standard Route'

From the right end of the lunch ledge, climb up the left-facing dihedral to a piton, then step right below a bolt. After clipping make some delicate moves (crux) rightwards and up to the the ramp, then continue leftwards up the ramp and layback corner to tree belay above.

To the left of the "launch pad" ledge where several climbs start are two patches of trees. This climb starts below the left most of the pair.

1. 125', 5.2. Climb unprotected slab.

2. 125', 5.2. Continue climbing without belay or protection to the patch of trees.

3. 150', 5.3. Climb a few slightly harder moves off the tree patch, then more unprotected 5.2 slab to a bolted anchor.

4. 70', 5.6. Climb up steepening slab to a bolt, then to a horizontal crack at the base of a steep face. Traverse right to a good ledge.

5. 70', 5.7. Climb up a lay-back crack angling rightwards, then up a tricky corner past a bolt, then step right to a good ledge with an anchor.

6. 100', 5.5. Go up the obvious groove with flakes and good gear to the right end of the tree ledge. Strongly consider rappelling from this point. Strongly consider it. Seriously, do it. You're done with clean rock and mostly done with any good climbing.

7. 100', 5.6 Continue up the right side of the trees to dirty slab. Angle up and left past a tree to a short, dirty rough corner that breaks through the next overlap protected by several old pins and an old bolt with a loose aluminum hanger (and some gear). Be careful of rope drag. (Handren, 2012 suggests moving the belay left to a tree leaning against the steep face, then stemming up that tree -- the tree does not seem to exist as of 2018. This description more closely matches Webster, 1996.) Now, really, turn back.

8. 90', 5.2(ish) Angle up and right through dirt, trees, shrubs, and dirty slabs. This wouldn't even be fun in hiking boots.

9. 90 ', 5.2(ish). Angle up and right through dirt, trees, shrubs, and dirty slabs. This wouldn't even be fun in hiking boots.

10. 170', 5.2(ish). Finally find some clean slab, angle up and right to the dike that is the final pitch of Standard Route, then follow it up and left.

Fine climbing up to the end of pitch 6. Pitch 7 is dirty, but of some interest. The rest is crap.

Right end of the 'Main Cliff'.

on Bottom Slab