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Description
A short cliff right beside the road with some excellent crack climbing.
Access issues inherited from Yosemite National Park
As of 27/06/22:
-"A reservation will be required to drive into or through Yosemite National Park from May 20 through September 30, 2022, for those driving into the park between 6 am and 4 pm." (note this may occur through a in-park camping or accomodation permit or wilderness/bigwall permit), a permit is NOT required if entering the park outside of these hours. (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/reservations.htm )
-"As of May 2021, a wilderness permit is required for all overnight big wall climbs. During this pilot, wilderness permits for climbers are free and there are no quotas or limits on the number of permits available." (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingpermits.htm ). See previous link for details on picking up this permit.
Approach
<5 min
Jump on 120 heading out of Yosemite Village. Park in the turnoff just past the very first tunnel, you may have to go down the road a bit to turn around. Look for the post with a picture of a carabena on it and make the arduous 3 minute approach. The most prominent climb on the wall that you can't miss is 'Lunatic Fringe'.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Shannon Joslin, James Lucas and Kimbrough Moore
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9781735608006
Detailing more than 1,300 boulder problems and packed with personal essays and breathtaking photos, Yosemite Bouldering is a must-have guidebook for anyone climbing in Yosemite.
- Contains detailed descriptions of more than 1,300 boulder problems, including over 400 new problems and 7 new bouldering areas
- Color coded entries and GPS coordinates help you choose and find your problems
- Full-color 1st edition features multiple personal essays and breathtaking climbing photos
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Author(s): Erik Sloan
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9781467596916
A selective guidebook describing over 350 big wall routes in Yosemite Valley, covering Ribbon Fall, El Capitan, Camp 4 Wall, Yosemite Falls Wall, Rhombus Wall, Arches Wall, Washington Column, Mt. Watkins, Quarter Dome, Half Dome, Porcelain Wall, Mt. Broderick, Liberty Cap, Panorama Wall, Jericho Wall, FireFall Wall, Glacier Point, 9 O’clock Wall, Sentinel Rock, Lost Brother, The Cathedrals, Wall of Ages, Leaning Tower, Fifi Buttress, and Valley West area.
ⓘ
Author(s): Erik Sloan and Marek Jakubowski
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9781532379284
A selective guidebook describing over 750 of the very best free rock climbing routes in Yosemite Valley, from 5.4 to 5.14 (F3 to F8c), with everything from single pitch routes to 1,000m+ routes on El Cap.
ⓘ
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| 5.9 | ★★★ Reed's Direct | ||
| 5.10c | ★★★ Lunatic Fringe |
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Unknown on ★★★ Reed's Direct 5.9 - Good value at 5.9!
Ken Luck on ★★★ Stone Groove 5.10b - Unique ascent of this classic
Fri 2 Jun
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