Ascents in World by Jacques Beaudoin having trad-cpr or ascent-date

First Free Ascent without pre-placed gear (redpoint). I have no words, it has been a long journey. Well worth it. I can't thank my belayers enough. Shot #1000000

FFA. First Free Ascent, pink point style. 76 shots over 7 months. This is a stunning line open for business.

6 shots total, fantastic climb. Is the grade a baseline for 28? I'm asking for feedback because I have no idea and I've been FA grading a fair bit of much harder 28s in the recent years. Thanks for letting me know what you think.

Finally completing this long chapter placing all gear from ground to end. This climb is one of a kind.

First Free Ascent. Two months of effort from cleaning to sending but had very bad conditions. I guess gr28 is fair. Finally a project I can tick in a matter of months rather than years...

Not every day you walk past an unclimbed classic roof crack, you've got the right gear, you've got the right partner and you onsight it ground up cleaning the loose rock on the way up, pull through perfect fists and hands with feet in the crack. Dream. I decided to continue up above the crack to top out on a scary mission on suspicious dinner plates, lose dirt, caving under boulder and emerge trough a hole. I do not recommend that bit! I will go back and clean it properly top down, this climb deserves to be one of the best cracks at the grade in the Blueys and beyond. Fanny agreed, this is an amazing find.

Epic onsight in one monster pitch. Loads of gear shuffle to avoid rope drag and avoid running out of #4s. Crux was burly fist jams that made me work real hard but I didn't think I'd fall at any moment. For me doing this climb in one pitch made it truly memorable.

Great climb. Had to fight to onsight this one.

Pitch 1 only. Fantastic climb! My average sausage fingers could only juuuussst fit in the second lock at a precise angle, when I worked that out it was fairly easy to get through first crux. Second crux at exit went really well but I had to grunt.

Great crack, great gear, a bit too much undercligning to my liking but very inspiring line. All dry, great friction today!

Really struggled in the chimney

Didn't live up to it's name. The real Supercrack is in Indian Creek. I didn't bother looking at the 2 first pitches. The third pitch was a pleasant 22 up to the two last jams then I had to shift gears a bit so I guess the gr24 is fair. I was quite frankly disappointed to find jugs as I was hoping for a pure crack. I also regret I used some footwork; I should really have kept my feet in the crack all the way, it felt magical when I did. I didn't top out the chimney, just downclimbed when I saw my last cam walking towards an old stuck cam. Overall a good little climb.

Linked all pitches together. I had three racks with me and used just a bit more than one. I occasionally walked up gear then build anchors at strategic locations. No rope drag whatsoever. I didn't notice I was in the middle of the crux of the third pitch when I questioned myself about putting long runners to reduce rope drag for the next pitch... so I downclimbed the thing to re-evaluate the sling strategy, then I realised where I was and went for it more carefully as I didn't want to blow my onsight ;-). Then every damn time I was 2/3rd up the sun was poking a hole through the cloud cover and blind me so I probably downclimbed the crux 4 times before the sun finally moved behind the cliff top so I could see and proceed with the last move which I could have done blind anyways. I think the grades for all pitches are right on the money, the crux is fair at gr23 as it's not steep, got heaps of footwork, great fingerlocks and ok hands. I really rate this climb done in one pitch as the rope management is a great part of the adventure and all climbing is super pleasant. Just avoid doing it in summer sun when it's straight in your eyes at 10-11 ish ;-)

First Free Ascent. Very inspiring line that begged to be climbed. Not strictly crack climbing as all footwork is there and the wide crack can be underclung in the same fashion as it's thinner version Gravel Rash at the Underworld. Used #3#2#0.75 for the start anchor then 5x#6 (some shuffled from the very beginning) and #0.75#2 after turning the lip.

Got advised to upgrade to 24. Although all holds are big, half the gear is tricky and suspicious and this thing is horizontal. Would be three stars at piddo.

Warming up, got a bit more pumped than expected

Harder than it looks from the ground. Perhaps the moist interior of the crack made it feel a bit stiff, perhaps being belayed by my 9yo little girl made it feel even stiffer 😉. Good little crack, will be more enjoyable after few months of summer drought.

Repeat, really really good climbing

FFA. FFA Redpoint as a warm up on third day on, four shot total

Lost at Rock-Paper-Scissors for the onsight but the conveniently located tree combined with a sore neck preserved me from getting any info on my mate's ascent! Great climb, great moves, great rock, loved it!

Third shot on this. Sorted out the ground boulder, tried Gwen's beta with knee bar but although it makes the reach easier for pinkie lock, the footwork becomes sub optimal for the next move. Back to my original beta with low feet pinkie lock is now solid 80%. Also fell off at top crux unexpectedly. Hopefully this is going down next shot.

It's pretty rare to come across a climb like this. This line is obvious and screams to be climbed, it's perfectly protected with traditional gear, all the holds are great and interesting with some truely amazing features, length is good, rests are helpful but not lie down type of thing, it's steeeep as, protected from rain, drizzle, sun, wind, name it. Thanks to Anton, outstanding work. Finally something I could redpoint 😂 My ascent was with previous knowledge as I've been up it few times taking a gentleman sit before the crux, then I had the chance to snatch the second ascent with extensive description of gear placements and provided gear so in some ways I wish I would have had the chance of getting this climb onsight but supporting Anton for the first ascent was even better. Again, top work Anton!

Top crux now sorted, not using the mono which I use for gear. Mid crux goes RH pinkie lock no tape.

Repeat, this time with the rock as clean as it can get without high traffic. Unfortunately I have to take few stars off after the ecstasy of the ground up first ascent wore out. The rock is all but perfect, It's short and has a sit down rest at the middle. Also, few flakes fell down leaving alternate footwork to the feet in the crack used in the first ascent. Still think it's a great little climb.

I was longing to get back on this one since my failed onsight attempt few years ago. This is an amazing line with great climbing set in a stunning area. World class. Thanks to Paul for a great day out

Amazing moves, varied size, unbelievable gear, just perfect. Felts easy for a 24 as suggested in SC guidebook, def 23 if not less. Regardless, such a good climb!

Mostly onsight

Was pretty spicy with only one #4

Climbed with hands and feet exclusively in the crack this time, a bit of a contrived challenge to up my game in preparation for the Creek. Felt really hard.

Surprisingly great, nice moves

Went on this one firstly to support Anton's Redpoint of P2 but also to redpoint P1P3P5 which I only seconded in the past. It was meant to be an easy day out on easy terrain as I'm still recovering from finger injury. I didn't realised how tired I was from the day before jumaring all day. P1 was awful, super wet and struggling with Anton's rack. P2 was a great success as Anton's marathon ascent ended up in a redpoint, not so much for me. The haul rope was stuck in bushes and pulled me down the whole way, struggling cleaning gear was hell, running on empty at crux, still managed. P3 lead layback was hard as I didn't recovered from P2. P4 seconding was relaxing finally no struggles. P5 was beautiful until the wetness. Then it was ugly in every ways, the clipping jug for the second carrot was dripping wet and I had a mental breakdown holding the draw momentarily to clip then carried on climbing swearing my head off. Then topped out climbing on my knees in the mud grasping at trampled grass tufts contemplating falling off backwards, I was broken inside out. A day to remember.

Repeat, just too good not to be repeated

Nice climb, great gear

World class at the grade

First Redpoint attempt. It was really scary as I was not really sure if I would be able to place next piece on lead and it's quite runout. I have worked out placements all on lead, now 5 group placements in 24m of climbing from batman anchor. 1st before crux (triple Yellow Z4), 2nd through crux (BD std med nut), at rest (Grey, Blue, Yellow Z4), Mid Bulge (Purple C4), Mid Roof (Red C4). If this wasn't of the batman start, most of the climb would be in groundfall territory. Luckily, it starts 7m from ground. As far as climbing goes, I find quite easy now, conditions are great and I'm thinking gr31 is not accurate and it could well be easier.

Warmup burn was as per previous highpoints, no more struggle through the finger locks, just have to get more than one pad in that pocket...

Freak event, second lock didn't get in properly, not to worry...

OMG that was it, I had the pocket solid but for some reasons my body was sagging too much to reset and wedge my pinky on the left side to proceed with the easy Glory Dyno. This should have been the one, I should have fought more. New high point at least.

I can do easily four shot a session now. Fell off one pad in pocket. Shot 75

Foot popped at pinch, does this counts as an attempt?...

High point again at pocket, kind of latched but not quite enough

High point again at pocket, latched on tips but fell off trying the one arm chinup wiggle trying to get them deeper. Then did few times the crux sequence but had to stop at shuffle, it's just too hard when gased. I reconsidered going for a small dyno skipping the shuffle and it worked straight away, I did it like 10x and I was so tired towards the end and it still worked. Major progress. Going through the 2nd&3rd jam seems now to be a formality, just have to latch the pocket and that's it. Shot 71

Great conditions, almost fell off gaston again, 2nd lock not good, fell off going for 3rd

High Point!!! Cruised through gaston at last, 2nd lock perfect, 3rd lock not great, crimp, chinup foot up, dyno to pocket first pads in but didn't latch. With retrospective I knew the 3rd lock wasn't good but knew I could chin-up foot up but it seems like I need 3rd lock to be good to pull my body in enough to stick the dyno. Next time I'll try to reset 3rd lock from crimp before progressing further.