Ascents of Paint God

13 tie-ins over 5 sessions. Puzzlingly kept falling over and over again at the red-point headwall crux. Good thing that came out of it, got used to the fall. Had to say a prayer for the send burn and God was Painted (or I was painted in God).

PS According to Steve, Lloyd is a painting genius; hence the name as a reference to his ability.

First try putting the draws and checking the moves, second tried red pointing but the beta was as soaked, then got some beta from another party and it went third go

Pre good

jugs.com

A little hard to continue the warmup on. Earned myself a flash pump to stay with me for the day.

Fun jug hauling with some suspicious pockets up there

The first go I looked like you put a figure skater on the rock; I just could not get through the roof and was nowhere close to getting it (roofs are not my favourite you see). Then, I ran through the moves in my head several times, saw my friends ticking it and magically got it second go. Amazing climbing plus some mental game involved. Pleasure to get to the top.

Super classy route. Second shot.

close!

Great climb, took the spicy whip at the red point crux on the first attempt. Had a good rest and a nap then managed to get it done. The boulder is definitely harder if short. I had to jump into the cut loose rather than getting the hold before cutting loose,extra style points.

Had already onsighted the start for the 27 a while ago, forgot the beta, re-onsighted it today @bestofthecrag fight me 🥊🥊🤷‍♂️

fuaaak yeah, paced it much better

Close

Bouldery start to an awesome, pumpy head wall. Pretty chuffed with the onsight!

Quick try of the boys beta for the start. Should go, pump management route.

Mega, few moves to work at the start. Will be a pumpfest on the headwall.

Did all the burly stuff then just fumbled the headwall, pulled back on and jugs to top. Pretty disappointed to drop the onsight on such a silly place, (few too many silly onsight drops recently) felt good the whole way. The guidebook is right about spaced bolts though, took quite the zinger when I came off. Didn’t go up again, was only init for the onny. Cleaning is a bit of a bitch.

Old nemi ticked

Super cool route. Tricky move to the face (i went feet first to make the R gaston less brutal) then a pumpy headwall. Couldn't feel my fingers so glad I stuck the final crimp move. 2nd go after putting the draws in and an onsight lob off the headwall a few weeks earlier.

Got most of it, including the thuggy bottom and from the face. But that big throw and swing was too much without a rope on the third. Solid falls too.

x2

x2 laps, head wall of Departures was wet so ended up doing a volume day instead

Second burn send. Stoked. Great climbing.