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Ascent of Clean Sweep by Michael Tanner

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Grade Route Gear style Quality
Tue 6th Feb 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
24 M1 Clean Sweep Aid 40m, 1 Mega Classic
Second shot after pumping out 2 moves before reaching easier ground on my onsight go. An immaculate climb, in my Taipan top 3 with Rage/Serp. Bears comparison with Archimedes' Principle. I though the aid requirement might detract from the experience but not at all. It was outrageous pulling under the hanging arete before establishing on good holds and turning the corner. Then there's 20 metres of perfect face climbing, decent holds the whole way but no really nice stances to place gear so you're on your arms the entire time.

It's bold for sure, I ran it out probably 6m through the most strenuous section on both the onsight and redpoint attempts. I could've placed another piece, maybe 2, but you'd need pretty wild endurance to stick around and do so. Let out a guttural yell on sticking the not-quite-a-jug that marked the end of the crux section & was almost too pumped to pull the last couple of moves to the horizontal break and easier ground above.

10/10, mega classic, would be worth the faff to pre-place gear if the ground-up approach doesn't appeal. Psyched!

 

Showing all 1 ascent.

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