Ascents by Kai having Distinct route

Für mich eine völlig unnatürliche Linie. Habe es trotzdem geschafft da ich noch frische Arme hatte.

One short crux at the second bolt. Finger pockets and small crimps. Guidebook says 7, but it isn't. After the crux much easier. #afterwork

Wie geil ist das denn. Erste 7- Onsight im Däle. Yeah.

Hab ich mich über die alten Sanduhrschlingen gefürchtet. Muss ich unbedingt beim nächsten Mal austauschen. Der Riss am Anfang war wie immer verkrampft.

Second attempt with success. As I had already onsighted the 2nd pitch I was not motivated enough today. I felt that the 2nd is harder than the others. But maybe I just did a stupid job. The third pitch is also great. In contrast to the second one, it requires more endurance because it is continuously difficult. The crack is finger-width at the beginning and a really good fist clamp is waiting at the last hook. Thank God, because without it the on sight attempt would have failed. I had almost used up all my grains. Shortly before sunset I reached the rock head happy and exhausted. Great route.

Hiltrun Buck followed at dusk and made it to the exit. During her ascent I could enjoy the nature and the peace at this time of day. It was wonderful to see the falcons flying under me and the Danube flowing. Hopefully this was not the last beautiful afternoon in the Däle.

With P1 of 'Neue Route'

Really great, slightly overhanging dihedral.

Quite a nice route with crimps and some reachy moves. Didn't expect to onsight it but it worked out. Looks like training in the Däle pays off.

Good, but very short. Probably avoided the crux because one can't see the crucial hole from below.

Small overhang followed by a slab and finally mega pockets and holes to the top. Rusty bolts. Needs retro bolting. Combined with Lolita. #pinkpoint

Keine Ahnung wie man in dem Schwierigkeirsgrad an der dritten Exe die Kante des Riss weglassen kann.

#lastrouteoftheday

Oben an der Platte vorbei geschummelt. Direkt wäre glaube ich keine 6a+.

Sehr cooler Abschluss in der Dämmerung. Irgendwie ist die leichter als Fuchur.

Na endlich, gleich beim ersten Versuch. Juhu. Leider eher ne 7-. Im Vergleich zu anderen 7er Routen im Däle eher leicht.

Alzheimer Flash

Great line that takes a little courage. With calm and patience it worked out. After almost 10 years since the last attempt I'm really pleased that I've practically flashed it. #alzheimer-flash

Finally sent with the third attempt. What an endurance challenge. Great moves but few bolts and some minor runouts. Yes!

Felt as if I cheated to clip the first bolt and to reach the hidden pocket.

Yes, what a fight. Because of the wet and dirty holds I pulled way to hard on the left hand, but hey it worked out. Pushed forward to overcome my fear of failing again.

#alzheimer-flash

Würde sagen das war fast ein #alzheimer-flash. Hoher erster Haken. Zuerst Lochplatte, dann Kante, etwas Schuppe mit piazen und schon ist man oben.

Sehr coole Seillänge an der Kante rechts vom 'Otto Normalverbraucher'.

Steep climbing with exceptional views but the rock quality is not the best. Every flake hast to be used with care. #alzheimer-flash actually I'm quite unsure if I climbed the correct line. There are so many bolts... Started at the Bühlerhaken right of Friederle (on top of the small pillar) and climbed straight to the overhang.

First route of the day, started with the sunrise and I got the wrong sector and quickly realised that the crux was harder than I thought. I probably avoided the crux a bit to the left and then switched back to the bolts on the right. Onsight, #earlybird

Mit Pause am Baum

Again steep climbing with exceptional views but the rock quality is not the best. Nevertheless I loved it and enjoyed it very much.

Screamed, yelled and jammed. Finally nailed it!

#clipstick'ed first bolt again. It is quite high and clipping position is bad. Short and steep.

Finally made it, only pinkpoint and on the somewhat power-saving line, but I made it. The exit crack has never been so easy. The trick is to use it very late. Stay on the right as long as possible, then you can easily reach the jugs in the crack.

After 'Dreams' I wasn't warmed up. Felix tried it first but didn't finish. I reached the top but I were scared to death until then. After the overhanging start I was so pumped that the easier second part felt as hard as the overhung. The guide book from the publisher "Versante Sud" rates this as a 6b.

Tolle Route. Die erste Seillänge ist einfach, aber auch dementsprechend gesichert. Ein oder zwei Keile sind hilfreich. 2. Seillänge fühlte sich im Nachstieg nicht wie eine 7- an. Der Abschluss-Quer-Schritt war allerdings schwer für mich. Die 3. Seillänge hat mir dann sämtliche Stecker gezogen. Habe mich mit letzten Kräften hochgekämpft und ewig gebraucht. Zum Schluss wurde es dann nochmal schön.

Ziemlich schlecht gesichert deshalb gleich im Toprope. Nicht schlecht. Reibung und viele Seitgriffe.

Crux at the third bolt therefore I feared to fall and rested. Quite a reachy move where I need to "screw in" on a high left foot at a three finger pocket to reach a two finger pocket (left hand). Then snap the flake with the right hand and sort the feet. Clip. Then use a layback to reach the little couloir. Be aware of dirt washed down by rain. At the 4th. bolt traverse to the right and follow the crack/flake system and enjoy.

Small finger holes.

Dangerous start (crux 1), inhomogeneous difficulty, polished second crux dihedral.

One minor fall, but I got all moves in the first pitch. Second onsight.