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Summary
Limestone
Cave with overhanging routes. Not world-class (anymore) but worth a go. Plenty of easy routes too.
Description
Overhung
Roof
Vertical
All day sun
Dry in the rain
South
Please consider buying the guidebook "Topo d'escalade Bléone - Durance at the library in Volx (24€), 2016"
Volx is an historic destination for sport climbing. In the eighties, the main cave was a training gym for all the strong French climbers and was an international venue for extreme (at the time) sport climbing grades. The area is seeing less visitors these days but is still worth a visit, especially on rainy days since it's so well sheltered.
Some routes may require a stick clip.
Access issues
Allowed
No climbing over Christmas as the cave is used by the town for festivities.
Approach
Gentle
5-10 min
<5 min
(43.881724, 5.839123) Rue Pierre et Marie Curie
The crag is visible from the village, it's all the way up!
If driving an RV, avoid coming from the town center as you will be stuck in Rue des Remparts.
From the car park walk 5min up La Montée de la Cappellane to reach the main cave. Follow the track left (Plus Belle La Vie) or right (all other) to access the other sectors.
For 'Plus Belle La Vie', 'La Grotte' et 'La Petite Grotte': Walk all the way up La Montée de la Cappellane (5min from car park).
For 'Botanique', 'Laurie', 'Petit Buoux' and 'Le Bloc', take the track at the small electric house. (4min from car park)
For all other sectors, turn right at the first sign 'Site d'escalade' and follow the obvious track.
Where to stay
Stay in Volx or Manosque which has many different types of accommodations and is a quick 10min ride by car.
There's a B&B located 2min away from the crag: B&B L'escalade en Luberon
Ethic
Well established
Pick up your trash and your dog's poo. Be nice with residents. Avoid bird nestings.
History
In 1989 Ben Moon freed the 5th 8c in the world here, calling it the Maginot Line in reference to a French military disaster. The French locals had been trying (and were close) to send the route when Ben snatched the FA. The route was later renamed Le Plafond (the roof).
In 2014 Adam Ondra onsighted Le Super Plafond 8c+ (placing all the quickdraws), an extension of Le Plafond going into Terminator and opened by JB Tribout in 1994.
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