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Graue Platte

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Description

Very nice slab wih grades up to 6c.

Access issues inherited from Klus - Balsthal

Whilst the Alter Klettergarten is safe even for kids, the Graue Platte, and the other crags to the right are on small paths which require sure footing. The bottom of the cliff is also on a narrow paths generally.

Approach

Right in front of you as you go up to the path. Beginning of routes requires some careful scrambling for 5 metres.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The farest leftest route, more left than the Pfeilerplatte and the Westpfeiler of the Direkter Pfeiler. On the path down from the fix ropes between two hazelnut bushes. The first meters are not so nice but the upper part is perfect rock climbing.

FA: Guido Ammon, 29 Jul 2023

To the original equippment has been added some bolts, to allow to climb the route. Requires nevertheless a good courage and knowledge of placing cams and rocks.

  1. 5c First 12m of herbal climbing, then turn to right to bypass the brittel original crack. Traverse to the left, now in perfect rock, into a dihedral (3 bolts) climb up and the last 15m over a slab and technical wall climbing to chain.

  2. ALpinstyle mixed climbing in a steep grass ledge and one small 7m walls. 4b Cams and slings.

  3. From the anchor climbing a short nice wall to the left. Grass ledge befor entering the canyon for 2m and following the crack leading slightly to the right. Crack and wall climbing on cams and rocks.

  4. Crack and wall climbing, short pitch.

  5. 5a

  6. 7a

  7. 5c

FA: Etienne Gross & Jürg Etter, 1968

1 6a+ 30m
2 5c+ 30m
3 6c 25m
4 5b 10m
5 5a 25m
6 6b 15m
7 6b 30m
8 5b 10m

Can be climbed at 6a obl A0.

  1. 6a+ climb up the very close bolted slab just left of where the approach trail arrives.

  2. 5c+ up right, then left, then straight.

  3. 6c (6a 2 p.a.) rightwards, curving left, a bit zig-zag then right to anchors.

  4. 5b up steep dark rock trending slightly rightwards, short pitch.

  5. 5a up chimney to left, then face above to anchor.

  6. 6b (5c+ 1 p.a.) Traverse right from anchor past tree then up steep face/arete.

  7. 6b (5c+ 2 p.a.) Straight up from anchor.

  8. 5b Short pitch, to top. Could combine with previous pitch.

Variation: 5+6: Step down & right from anchor and traverse across to below dihedral, then up dihedral and steep face to anchor. 6b.

Descend: walk a bit up to hiking trail. Head left along trail until you get to hiker's descent down gulley climber's left of the cliff. Down trail, fixed ropes and fixed rappel ropes to base.

FA: J. Etter, E. Gross, R. Wiss, R. Dutli, H.R. Mühlethaler & R. Schifferli

Maint: J. Wüthrich, 1996

Start's from the end of Gelbe Verschneidung. Originally grad 5c+, now 6a+. Last pitch take care of loose stones, also during rappeling. After adding some more bolts in 2017 the route is now well protected.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680513

All important bouldering areas of northern Switzerland, including the high passes, are presented in detail / 17 bouldering hot spots with over 4150 boulder problems between Schaffhausen and the main ridge of the Alps. It covers Kesslerloch, Magic Wood, Engelberg, Blattiswald, Morschach, Schöllenen, Göschenen, Gotthardpass, Nufenenpass, Minstigertal, Furkapass, Sustenpass, Steingletscher, Grimselpass, Fuxenstein, Kandersteg, Goppenstein.

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Sun 28 May
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