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Dane Evans replied 4 months ago.
What's incoherent is that TR ascents, or dogs count for anything at all. -650 is a reasonable compromise.
It's a performance rating, it doesn't count until it's done
Serge Longueville replied 4 months ago.
Although not a big fan of toproping I occasionally use it as one of the steps towards lead RP (when already failed lead OS or RP). Improvement up the ladder should be properly recognized, i.e. differentiate between TR hangdog and TR free ascent and at least consider lead hangdog superior to both.
Simon Dale replied 4 months ago.
Tick shifts for hangdog, top ropes, and other minor ascent types are definitely up for discussion.
It is good that the community is now thinking about this topic. We spent a lot of time and analysis getting the onsight, flash, redpoint and pinkpoint tick shifts but the rest do not have the same depth of analysis.
Please be aware that we don't have resources to implement anything immediately so this is simply a discussion on where we would like to be some time in the future.
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Serge Longueville started this discussion 4 months ago.
CPR tick shift incoherence
I noticed the following CPR tick shift for lead climbing : Onsight : +300 Flash : +220 Redpoint : +0 Pinkpoint : -130 Then a debatable -650 for hangdog/AF and no difference between 1 fall and heavy hangdogging but since these are no noticeable ascents, fair enough. Looking now at toprope CPR tick shift I see both ticked and hangdog at -200 meaning no difference between a restless toprope ascent and hangdog toprope (how strange) AND at -650, lead hangdog is more penalized than toprope hangdog. Does not really fit with the performance path towards lead redpoint, does it ?