Routes in Africa for selected grade

Same start as 3 on the low, big jugs. Traverse left and up on jugs. From final jug, make a big move to a small hold, then up to large lip on right. (Or top out if you're bold!)

About 5m left from the low, big jugs or 4m right of the deep corner. Climb up to blunt lip. Follow the lip on small holds until the big lip (same top as 4).

Well bolted sport route. Little overhang at the top. Start on the small ledge.

Amazing line that starts from the regular route approach just before 3 step chimney. Pitch 1 - The big hard and scary chimney, bolted but big cams essential. Pitch 2 - Continue up the perfect hand crack / dihedral to slightly dodgy stacked towers of rock. Clip a bolt then go right under the roof to a stance at the end of the roof. The 3rd pitch is hard and has only 3 bolts. Start via a hard boulder problem to sustained laybacking and finger jams. Small feet. Pitch 4 - more of the same but easier to climb over a fig creeper and leftwards into an open chimney and then up the slab. Pitch 5 - Head right across the easy slab (bolts) and up to the obvious break in the roof. Hard moves into this and out the the right (bolts) lead to a belay on a ledge. Pitch 6 - Easy. Climb into the deep chimney and walk/shuffle along this to the rightwards ramp. Climb up this to the 1st bolted stance of the regular abseil route. A short scramble to the summit.

1st ascent was made ground up with aid and free climbing but the route is not fully free yet.

THE ROUTE IS NOT YET FULLY OPENED FOR OTHER PARTIES AND HAS THE BOLT HANGERS REMOVED TO PREVENT PEOPLE CLIMBING IT.

Mixed route with some Aid A0

Mixed route Trad & Bolts with a bit of Aid A0

Mixed Route

Heavy

Varied mixed trad and bolted route. Amazing climbing. Bolts placed to allow for aiding the cruxes. Take 16 quick-draws and a single rack of cams up to BD4 and wires plus lots of slings for threads. Bolted stances. 60m ropes obligatory. See http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215046/Great-Spitzkoppe-Northwest-Face-Mamba-No-5-and-Other-New-Routes

Project

A super unique line for the area! Steep route on the overhung wall at the T junction within the fractured corridor.

Starts approximately 50m right of BDND.

Start to right of WWOF up broken recess to right of flake crack.

Just upstream of the roof crack of DOG STAR is an overhanging, left trending, groove with two bolts.

1. 25m 26 Pull up on jugs to the first bolt. Up to a rail at the base of the corner, then power up the corner past the second bolt. Carry on up the groove and finish up right.

Note: Apparently a grip has broken off on this route and it is now significantly harder

Start from the "nose" stance after the 3rd pitch of Lost Tribe.

This route takes one of the most direct lines at Blouberg, to the left of the WALL OF WHITE LIGHT. The start is 30m to the right of ANOTHER DAY IN HELL and about 10m left from the start of THE DELICATE SOUND OF THUNDER. A small beacon marks the start. The route takes a more or less direct line transecting ANOTHER DAY IN HELL. It tops out to the left of the huge, trapezoidal roof which is easily visible from the ground, virtually at the top of the face and just to the left of the start. It is basically an independent line, but shares the bivy stance with ANOTHER DAY IN HELL. To keep the line direct it has two short sections which are common to that route.

1. 27m 20 Climb the clean line directly to the large ledge system above. Avoid the grassy corner on the right at 12m by staying on the face to the left of it.

2. 40m 22 Climb an obvious orange groove a few metres to the left of the start and climb through the overhang above. There is a peg visible at the overhang at 10m. Once through the overhang, continue up towards the right beneath a small roof to easier ground and then to a blocky stance topped by an overhang. Move right 2m and climb though the overlap to a rail (in common with ANOTHER DAY IN HELL. Continue up leftwards (crux). Move diagonally left a few metres (tricky) and then up to a point where you can traverse to a perch just left of a prominent right-facing corner beneath a large roof.

3. 50m 20 Move left 2m and up underneath a small overhang. Step right onto the ridge and continue up easier rock to a steep broken section at 40m. Pull through this on good jugs to a large ledge (bivvie common with ANOTHER DAY IN HELL).

4. 35m 21 ANOTHER DAY IN HELL takes the first diagonal break to the right starting at the end of the ledge. Continue past this for 3 - 4m and then take the obvious break heading for the scooped section of the wall 25m above. Fantastic climbing, protected by a bolt, brings you to a crux section, where an RP affords reasonable protection. Prior to this point there is a peg on the right. Move through this crux section (the good handhold on the left is now broken off), to a hanging stance off a big block. Pitches 4 and 5 can be combined.

5. 25m 24 Move right 5m to a point below two pegs 10m above. Place good pro in a rail and continue up to the pegs. A crux move past the pegs brings you to easier ground. Climb diagonally up left to a good stance.

6. 35m 23 Above is a shallow, right-curving corner with a peg visible but the route does not take this corner. Walk left about 5m to where the ledge ends, to a perch stance and climb the obvious orange corner directly above for 12m. When the corner peters out, do a delicate move right and then gingerly climb on to a large precarious-looking block. A tricky move (for short people) brings you into a leftleaning crack. Continue up this until it peters out after 5m, to a crouching position. Move up left onto lichen covered rock and then diagonally right to a good stance.

7. 35m 22 Some tricky moves up to the left bring you into a right-curving crack system (often has bird shit) topped by a roof. At the roof rail right (slippery) and then climb up to a small stance under a small roof.

8. 40m 25 Continue up the broken corner-crack to the roof above. A hard move up through the left brings you into an orange corner. Climb this to a rail underneath an overhang. Rail left to an amazing stance on the skyline. This pitch has three bolts.

9. 50m 17 A chossy start brings you onto lichen-covered rock. Continue up the obvious line more or less straight to the top. From here the scramble off is straightforward and fortunately not too bushy.

Notes:

1. The route is well-protected, apart from pitch 4, which is runout and may be protected using an RP.

2. No special gear is required, however a set of RP's will prove useful.

3. The corner of pitch 8 was originally aided.

4. Bivi sites: at the top of pitches 3 and 5 there are excellent bivvies. The opening party also bivvied uncomfortably at the top of pitch 6. The bivvi site at the top of pitch 3 has a drum and there is at least one mattress, chalk and a duvet jacket. Please leave these articles in situ for the benefit of future ascentionists.

A direct, sustained and wild route with good gear and continually engaging climbing. It was established with repeats in mind and has occasional bolts. A must-do. Gear: Double rack of cams from black alien to #2 camalot with triples of blue to grey alien equivalents. Singles of cams #3 and #4. Single set of nuts from DMM #1 to #9 plus a set of offset nuts to #7 DMM equivalent. Micro nuts not necessary. Supplementary Wild Country superlight rocks (the single-stem ones) are useful but not essential.

Start about 15m right of the massive pillar of YOU ONLY LIVE TWICE, beneath a short, wide crack formed by a fin 10m up. This is just left of a cluster of large boulders. The eventual aim (on pitch 6) is the impressive, overhanging arête which dominates the top half of the wall.

1. 24 45m. Jikkels. An intricate and sustained journey. Take all the gear, except cams #0.75, #1, #2 and #4. Follow the vague break, place the #3 cam on the right, then run it out rightwards past the fin to jugs. Traverse 2m left into the main break then up to a small ledge where the crack ends. Traverse left across a smooth wall to a narrow dihedral. Problem-solve gear in a bizarre hole, then climb left and down to jugs just left of the arête. Climb straight up (tricky) to the overlap in white rock above. Keep going to the big hollow flake (crux), move slightly left then up to a jug, then rail right and up to a bolt. Step right and climb the vague corner. Traverse right just above the small roof to a thin crack then straight up to a good ledge (bolted anchor).

2. 25 45m. Stikkels. Take all the gear, except cams #1 to #3. The aim is to break through the obvious notch in the roofs about 15m right of the stance. Climb up on the right to a rail. Step left and jettison the #4 cam about 5m directly above the stance. Traverse 3m right then up and left to a flake. Up this to hollow blocks then up to another large good flake. Don’t go up or left to the choss. Instead, traverse right about 4m then a big crank straight up to a ledge with a small grotty tree/bush. Traverse right then up to a hidden bolt on the right beneath the roof. It’s about 21 to here. Make a long reach to get hands above the roof, then keep cranking until feet are above the lip. Step left to a perch. Continue easily up and left about 8m to a small ledge – small cams.

3. 23 45m. Frikkels. Classic like Boven. Take double small cams to #0.5, single cams above this to #1 and all the wires. Climb the easy but runout ramp on the right then step left onto a big ledge (good bivi for 2, uncomfortable for 3). PSYCHO REPTILE climbs up and left and then back right into the steep, left-facing, narrow dihedral. Instead, climb up and diagonally right past a bolt to a vertical crack. Up this then step right at a second bolt. Up to a third bolt, then back left to a jug. Straight up to a small perch (PSYCHO REPTILE re-joins here). Do a runout traverse right to easier ground, then up to a ledge (PR goes right from here). Traverse left and climb up to a bolted stance on a large block.

4. 21 45m. Bring route-finding skills. Take double small cams to #0.5, single cams above this to #4 and all the wires. Save cams #2 to #4 for the stance (especially if hauling). Up to a bolt, then climb diagonally up and left. Follow the path of least resistance by trending up and left, always on good clean rock, until a bolt is visible about 6m above. Climb up and right, then traverse left to the bolt which protects a few moves on a hollow flake. Climb up then left onto a leftwards-diagonal ramp. Finish up an easy short, right-facing corner to an amazing ledge (good bivi for 4). Stance off cams in the top rail.

5. 25 45m. The Business. Simply amazing. Take all the gear, except blue and black aliens. Keep a few small cams for the stance. From the left end of the ledge climb over ledges to the obvious crack. Follow this over a (solid) bulging block then step left to a foot perch just below the big roof (shared with YOLT to here, which then goes right). Climb the crack above and follow it leftwards into the dihedral to eventually make heart-breaking crux moves to exit onto a good ledge.

6. 21R 30m. Beware of loose rock. Take all the gear to cam #0.5, singles of #0.75 to #3 and all the wires. Cam #4 not necessary. Climb the chossy corner above the left end of the ledge until just before it slabs out. Place good kit and traverse right on hollow yellow lichen rock, then up to the right edge of a ledge system that goes into the alcove up and left. Avoid the alcove – instead traverse right then trend up and right to a good rail in welcome solid rock. Traverse right then up to a small ledge with a large cammed flake. Continue up right to belay on Giggle Ledge - an outrageous sloping perch on the arête. YOLT comes into this ledge from right of the big arête.

7. 21 20m. Grey Groove. Take all the gear to cam #1, singles of #2 and #3 and all the wires. Save one each of cams #1 to #3 for the stance. Exit the ledge up and right (shared with YOLT). Instead of moving right on that route to bird shit ledges, climb the grey groove on the left wall. When this dies, step left to the arête and make wildly exposed moves up to a ridiculously awesome perch.

8. 22 50m. The Emotional Pitch. It’s better than therapy. Take all the gear. Move about 5m left then up to an obvious dihedral capped by small roofs. Up the dihedral, then rail right at the roofs and mantle onto a small ledge. Climb the blunt arête just above the left edge of the ledge. Up and left then up the smooth wall past a bolt and crucial flake to a big rail. Rail right then up to a rest with an obvious crack above. Swim up the jams and funkiness just left of the detached (but solid) pillar. At a big jug traverse right over the top of the pillar, then climb the crack above. Exit this leftwards to obviously easier ground. Swing onto a crazy horn, then slightly left and up to hero jugs. Let it all out, and be sure to look straight down to the start of the route. Rail right on the narrow ledge to the arête, then scramble up 5m to the next ledge. Traverse back left to belay above the hero jugs.

9. 19 15m. Climb a few meters up the bushy break on the left. Move left onto a rounded prow and climb this to the massive top-out ledge. Coil the ropes and put on approach shoes. Walk off about 40m leftwards through the bush to a big, open terrace. Keep traversing left until able to scramble easily up to the summit.

Variations: P3 can be dodged (grade 20) by climbing PSYCHO REPTILE’s’s pitch just to the left. P5 can be dodged (grade 21) by continuing rightwards up YOLT, then breaking left into the greenish hanging corner to Giggle Ledge. A less aesthetic version of P7 (similar grade) is to continue up YOLT’s corner to a rail which then goes hard left to the awesome perch.

LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake (as for HEY JUDE).

1. 45m 16 Climb a few metres up the corner and then move right on to the face. Climb tending leftwards to the base of a short corner crack. Climb this and finish up and right to a stance.

2. 35m 17 Pull through the narrowest point in the roof about 3m right of the stance, then climb trending slightly leftwards to a reasonable ledge.

3. 35m 15 Climb the water worn scoop above trending right at the top to exit on to the mega Grassy Ledge. Walk about 10m to the right.

4. 20m 19 Climb up 4m to place gear behind a big flake. Continue up crack for a few meters until able to traverse right to another crack (don’t be fooled into continuing all the way up the crack – it gets hard!). Climb up to a large ledge, then walk 5m right to belay below the hanging corner 5m higher. VARIATION 40m 21 (not recommended – lots of bird shit): Start further right and climb the recess that leads to a ledge just left of the big roofs (as for BLUE MOON and WOW FUCK). Rail left for 5m until able to pull onto the face. Climb diagonally up and left over bird-shit until able to step left to the pegs on pitch 5. Either take a hanging stance here, or, if you have enough gear, continue up the rest of pitch 5.

5. 45m 21 Step off the ledge a few meters further right at a thin vertical crack (small wires / RP’s). Climb the face to a rail, then rail left to the base of the dihedral. Climb this to a roof. Move rightwards past the roof to pegs and follow the left-leading crack above to a small, off balance ledge. Navigate through the roof into the corner above and follow this to the jumbo ledge. Wild climbing.

6. 25m 25 From the front of the jumbo ledge, below the 1.5m high step in the ledge (i.e. from the lower ledge), climb easily up the leftward diagonal crack to a two foot roof. Move through this and up the crack above to stance above the next overlap. There is good gear below the crux sequence.

7. 35m 20 Move left then up and right into a thin crack. Climb up a bit and then head leftwards to the base of a clean corner system. Climb the corners to exit left to a long ledge. Scuttle left to belay about 3m beyond the obvious off-width crack.

8. 40m 20 Climb up about 5m to gain a crack. Climb this to stance at the highest ledge.

9. 45m 16 Climb the juggy face immediately right of the chimney. Step left at the top of the slab to below a roof crack. Up this keeping right at first then exit left to the ledge. Stay roped to scramble rightwards up the stepped ledge system and then up to the top.

Notes:

1. In the interests of the quest for consumer climbing on the big blue mountain, this RD is a stand-alone version of a pretty direct variation of existing routes up the craggy section of the main wall with a few new pitches thrown in for good measure. HEY JUDE (pitch 1), EIGHT MILES HIGH (pitches 2, 3, 8 and 9) and SOMETHING OF VALUE (pitch 4 and first half of pitch 5). The second half of pitch 5 and pitches 6 and 7 are independent of other routes.

Takes a direct line, between SOV and TEDDY BEARS’ PICNIC. Start 5m right of SOV below an overlap which turns into a short, right-facing corner higher up.

1. 35m 22 The One-More-Time Pitch. Climb 5m to the small roof, then rightwards into the overlap. Climb up to another small roof and rail right, then up the rightfacing corner above. The crack pinches out here so traverse 3m right to a crack. Up this to just below where it dies, then traverse 4m back left to rejoin the original crack line. Climb this to a ledge shared with SOV.

2. 40m 18 Up then slightly left from the stance, through some steep rock, to a ledge. Traverse right to a small amphitheatre with a short corner on each side and a big roof above. Climb up to the apex of the left hand right-facing corner, layback round the small roof to under the big roof. Rail left to a ledge.

3. 40m 17 Traverse 10m left. Climb a shattered pillar to the next ledge. Head diagonally right then up to the grassy ledge.

4. 40m 21 Rolling Stones Pitch. There are big roofs above the right hand half of the ledge. A massive corner with three roofs breaks through to the left of the biggest roofs. Climb the recess to a ledge beneath the corner (shared with WOW FUCK). Climb the corner, railing right under the first and second roof. Just after the second roof, traverse right across the face to an outrageous foot ledge on the skyline. Climb up the prow then step back left into the corner (now above the final roof). Climb this to a good small ledge.

5. 50m 18 Step right and make thin moves up to a big rail. Traverse about 8m right to a vertical crack, up this then rail right to another vertical crack. Up again then step right to belay beneath the middle of 3 cracks (the right hand diagonal crack in a yellow wall is TBP, SOV breaks through the roofs about 20 or 30m left).

6. 35m 25 Legoland pitch. "This 'aint no sport route". Savour the warm-up moves in the corner until able to step left around the arête onto a slab. Climb up the small trapezoid pillar on the left then pull through the bulge to a rail. Breathe through your arse as you move up and left to a bolt. Diabolical crimps lead horizontally left to a rest beneath the next bolt. Climb up past the bolt and traverse thankfully left to juglets. Up to the big ledge. Walk left to below the large right-facing corner. TBP goes up the face with 2 bolts to the right.

7. 35m 23 Knifeblade Pitch. Climb the corner, past a peg. Traverse right to a small ledge. Climb the crack above the left hand side of the ledge & follow the break curving up left. Traverse left until able to easily climb up to a good ledge.

8. 60m 21 Walk 5m right to a sheltered alcove. Climb left-trending thin diagonal crack until it dies. Continue diagonally left to easier ground. Traverse right and pull onto the easy slab. Up this and follow your nose until you run out of rope.

9. 30m 16 Scramble/climb to the summit.

Notes:

1. A well-protected route. Pitches 6 and 7 are bold, but safe. Bolts (60mm, M10 stainless steel, placed in 2005) and peg (BD knifeblade, 2005) placed on abseil.

2. Gear: double rack of small cams, small wires on pitch 1, #3 Camalot on pitch 7.

3. Pitches 4, 6 & 7 cleaned and inspected on abseil and mostly top-roped before being led. Pitches 6, 7 & 8 opened, subsequently freed.

Climbs the face to the left of 'Golden Goose' .

1. 15m 19 Climb a vague groove up the face between FUM and 'Golden Goose' to a narrow ledge (sparse gear).

2. 30m 26 Climb up on the left and then move right onto the face. Climb past a bolt on side-pulls and under-clings to the roof (peg). Pull through and continue up the corner above to a tree.

A line at the top of the gully behind THAT LITTLE FAGOT.

1. [25] 15m Start at the bucket right of the bolt. Up to a bolt (RP2 and RP1). Left past the bolt and then follow the line to the top.

Climbs the arête between 'Clime Of The Century' and 'The Cruise'. Bolted.

The wall to the right of 'The Cruise'.

1. 20m 26 Pull through a small overhang and climb straight up the face past a bolt, until able to move left to a friend rail. Continue up the right-trending break above.

About 20m downstream of 'Sea Of Madness' and 'The Cruise' is a lower short buttress.

1. 12m 25 Climb up the middle of this short buttress.

Note: Small friends and bolts.

Climbs the very overhanging wall on the true right of the kloof downstream of the main climbing area. This is where the kloof makes a turn to the left, but is upstream of the pinnacle.

1. [25/26] 15m Climb the steep corner/ crack past a peg to the top.

Climbs the center of the wall to the left of 'Picture Book' (about 80m left of 'Fallen Angel'). Scramble up to the base of the wall next to a tree.

1. 35m 26/27 Climb straight up the slab past a peg and 2 bolts to where it eases. Move up and left and climb the steep crack with a tricky move onto the arête. Scramble up 10m to a ledge and rap point.

Climbs the smooth wall, with two bolts, to the right of 'Stone Needle'.

1. [25] 15m From the base of 'Stone Needle' climb diagonally right to the first bolt. Climb straight to the top past the second bolt.

Climbs the arete to the right of 'The Moke' and continues up the face between the final section of 'The Moke' and 'Hyperadrenia'.

This route shares a start with Blood Before Tea before moving left and up the immaculate face to break through the roofs above.

1. [25] 30m As for 'Blood Before Tea', climb easy rock to gain a vaguely rightwards trending rib, then step right to a ledge. Move up and left to the obvious rail in the clean wall on the left. Rail 1.5m left then climb the face to the base of a rightward facing corner. Climb this as it gradually steepens then exit leftwards above the lip to beneath the large square roof. Pull past the left edge of the roof to easy ground and a fixed anchor (three nuts and a manky old peg – shared with Finger Hatchet). Either rap off or climb 'Blood Before Tea' top pitch.

Approximately 100m upstream from 'Red Column' there is a very overhanging orange wall which starts about 30m below the top of the kloof. The wall faces slightly upstream, is opposite a dry gully and is split by a left-tending break. The route is best approached from the top.

1. [25] 30m Start just left of the tree and climb the break to the roof. Step left and pull onto the wall. Continue straight up for about 6m then move slightly right to join the left-tending break. Follow this to the top.

Climb left break on the wall, kinking to the right briefly at a bolt and then exiting left.

The smooth grey slab above the grassy ramp which leads up to the base of, and is left of, 'Red Column'.

1. 20m 25 Climb the thin crack up the centre of the slab.

Note:

Small wires are useful as protection.

Rap in to the ledge and climb the white slab/face to the left of 'Bumping Weight Tosser'. Wanders around a bit to contrive gear

At the same level as the start of 'The Doppler Effect' walk about 30m left along the grass ledge to a large flat good bivi ledge (lizard ledge), to the left of this is a overhanging face with a crack up the centre which fades away after 7m.

1. 15m 25 Climb the crack to its top, and at this level move up to the right arete which is climbed to the top (do not move around the corner i.e. stay on the arête).

Takes a line up the centre of the wall to the left of 'Reggae Music' . Starts off the lizard ledge.

1. 20m 25 Climb up to the ledge and gain the flared crack on the left side of the scooped face. (Rock 1 or better still a Choinard 3). Up this to a bolt on the right. Continue diagonally right up to a rail. Then up and back left to a groove which is followed up to a ledge on the left.

50m downstream of the Cedarberg/Tonquani junction on the true left, is a gully. Scramble up the steep section of the gully and exit on the right (downstream) side of the gully onto a large ledge, immediately opposite the steep crack 'Reign Of Fire' . The route starts on the right of the ledge. The five mega bolts in a row make it very difficult to find!

1. 20m 26 Join the dots, the crux move being from bolt No. 5 straight up onto the ledge. Exit off to the right and scramble down.

1. 15m 25 Just right of 'Life After Enlightenment' there is a right-facing, black-streaked dihedral, with a roof and an old peg. The route goes straight up the dihedral and through the roof, onto a ledge. From this ledge, climb 'Scotsman's Safari' to top out.

Climb the crack line 3m left of 'Horse Latitudes' .

Note:

Bolt replaced in 2005

About 100m downstream of the Mountain Club of South Africa signpost there is a buttress. There is a crack on the downstream side, climb the steep face 5m right of this crack.

1. [26] 10m Climb the face using 4 bolts.

Note:

Bolts replaced in 2005

Just downstream of the wormhole descent, on the right side of the kloof, there is a 12m high conical buttress with some detached blocks on top of it. A continuous crack leads from it, bearing slightly left, up a steep smooth face for 9m and then continues through a 3m roof.

1. [25] 30m

   ???1. 30m 25 Use roots to climb the left side of the cone. Climb the continuation crack which overhangs to begin with before tackling the roof crack. Gain slab above roof, and hence onto ledge on the right and then up to a large ledge.

2. [15] 18m

   To the right an impressive smooth corner slopes up left. Belay near its foot. Climb up to the sloping corner and follow it to the top.

Variation: 2a. 18m 13 For a direct finish, belay at the foot of the obvious corner on the left (tree belay). Climb directly up the face for 3m to corner, continue up corner to tree on ledge. From the back of the ledge take a steep chimney in the corner which ends 3m from top, where two parallel cracks continue up. Ascend right crack to top. (Mar 1974 J. Linke and T. Hoy)

Starts from a wet sloping ledge below an undercut face approximately 10m to the left of 'Twist and Shout' .

1. [25] 20m

   Start up undercut face from wet ledge and climb rails to traverse left to a peg. Step back right and climb blocks to roof, then left to follow discontinuous crack line through the roof to a ledge. Originally graded 23! Well protected, with good small cams at the now-redundant peg.

2. [23] 20m

   Climb the interesting crack/groove through the overhang above and continue to a ledge.

Essentially a variation to the last pitch of 'Agonising Hands' .

1. [25] 25m Follow the line of 2 pegs to the left of the last pitch of 'Agonising Hands' and then go up the "V" groove above.

A wild route with two distinct boulder problems separated by easy climbing. Ends at the tree below Gom Jabbar, so could be a suitable first pitch.

Start as for Suicide and climb the corner to the roof. Instead of traversing far left as for Suicide, just step left to the arete, then make a massive move up to the big jug directly above (crux 1). Move right to surmount the roof. Climb the easy break above to the last jugs below a steep wall. Make hard moves up and left to break onto the slab just right of the corner (crux 2). Easily up and right to the tree. Climb a route of your choice to the top or rap off the tree.

Start directly opposite 'Frog Gully' on the true right-hand side of the kloof, below a huge open book in the overhangs in the upper part of the kloof.

1. [22] 35m

   Scramble up the vertical grass (often wet) to the tree. Step 1m right and climb up 3m before pulling left into the thin groove. Climb up strenuously to a resting place below the overhang. Stretch across and clip a thin wire (in place). Using this for aid, step right and up into the base of the steep, broken crack. Climb the crack for about 15m to where the angle eases at the level of the 'Cedarberg Traverse' . Follow this route up and left around the corner and then back down to a stance just to the left of the crack which leads up to the big dihedral above.

2. [25] 25m

   Climb back up the crack to the small overhang. Pull through this and continue for about 1m from where it is possible to pull left to the prominent flake and crack. Steep jamming and lay-backing leads to a resting position on top of the broken flake. A further 3m leads up to the first major roof in the dihedral from where the aid climbing starts. Aid through this roof and continue up into the dihedral above. Climb this past some guano and continue to where the dihedral runs into the final, huge overhang. Traverse right (on aid) to the end of the overhang, step right and up onto a good stance.

3. [12] 10m

   Step right into the groove, climb this and continue to top.

Climbs the very steep wall about 25m upstream of 'Cedarberg Crescent' (i.e. 10m to the left 'Do You Feel Like We Do' ). Start near tree fern.

1. [26] 20m Up the recess to the rail. Straight up face past bolt to bucket. Move right and finish up vague notch/groove.

Starts as for the 'The Fingertip Fandango' .

1. [25] 10m Up the 'The Fingertip Fandango' but move right where the 'The Fingertip Fandango' goes left. Finish straight up from the small cubbyhole.

This route climbs through the roof mentioned in STICKY CORNER on the left side.

1. 25m 25 Start directly below the left most point of the roof. Climb up the easy angled rock to the left of the small overhang, up to the first ledge. Make an awkward move right, across the gap to the base of a short left leaning corner capped with a small triangular white roof. Climb the corner to the small ledge. Climb diagonally left across the slab up to the left end of the roof. Pull through the roof and amble up to the mega ledge.

Note: Abseil down using the horizontal branch of the large tree.

Climbs the pink wall and roof to the left of CALCANIUS.

1. 10m 26 Climb the wall, following the line of bolts, to the roof. Pull through and gain the ledge.

Descend as for SHANGHAI SURPRISE.

Right of QUINTESSENCE.

1. 10m 25 Start as for QUINTESSENCE and step right at the overlap. Up left of the peg, finish straight up.

Climbs the steep smooth wall left of QUINTESSENCE.

1. 10m 26 Climb past two bolts to the right edge of a roof. Exit via the right-facing dihedral.

The gully above the lunch spot becomes a (dry) scoured waterfall just beyond LEMON (a chimney). BLADERUNNER climbs the thin double crack system up the steep grey wall between LEMON and the waterfall.

1. 20m 26 Step up right from a boulder and climb up to a roof (bolt). Follow the crack system to the second rail, then exit via the continuation of the left crack.

Note: Trust the bolts at your peril!

1. 10m 25 Climb the wall with 2 bolts to the right of TRICK OF THE LIGHT.

Start 2.5m upstream of DIVEBOMBER, more or less opposite a tall tree.

1. 8m 26 Pull through the overhang at 2m and climb straight up the face above, finishing via a small left facing dihedral. A selection of small wires is handy.

Takes the wall 3m to the left of DESPERATE BUT NOT SERIOUS.

1. 15m 25 Start beneath the bolt and climb straight up passing to the left of the peg. Pull directly through the bulge of the rightward curving crack and exit straight up. Follow easy rock to the top.

Takes the reddish overhanging wall halfway down the descent gully. Three bolts.

1. 15m 25 Climb up to the hand rail and go left. Climb up to below the small roof and pull through on the right. Continue to the top.

Next to ROOF OF ALL EVILS.

1. 15m 26 Climb up the face past five bolts.

Climbs very steep rock on the true right of SLAB GULLY, approximately 10m to the right of SUFFRAGETTE CITY and 5m to the right of HUNKY DORY.

1. 20m 26 Start up a short pillar and climb steep rock past 3 bolts to a horizontal break. Move 2m right and climb the corner above to a ledge

A roped boulder problem through the obvious break in the roof upstream of Forever Young. Start in a hollow formed between a boulder, the wall and the big Forever Young tree. I.e. immediately right of Yahoo.

Start 3m right of WHERE DO YOU THINK YOU ARE GOING, above the large boulder, but downstream of the obvious chimney cracks.

1. 25m 25 Climb up a few metres to steeper rock. Move right then make hard moves up to a good hold. Continue more or less straight up via the corners and small roofs above.

Climbs the steep wall on right of the top pitch of GOOD DOG. An amazing, airy route.

1. 30m 25 Climb the wall passing a few pieces of fixed gear.

Note: Fixed gear replaced in 2023, making this a safe but airy lead. A stickclip is useful for the start.

Shares Good Dog Pitch 1 and portion of Spaced OutPitch 2

The obvious thin crack up the face about 2m right of BORED GAMES.

1. 10m 25 Climb the crack to a gnarled tree. Either abseil back down or continue up easy rock to the top.

Climbs the face and arête past some bolts immediately left of CEE CRACK.

1. 20m 25 Climb face and arête past some bolts.

Climbs the steep corner/crack up the middle of the overhanging band of rock downstream of VORTEX, i.e. upstream of the sandy pool-bed above MHLABATINI CHIMNEY (opposite and slightly downstream of INVALID).

1. 15m 25 Climb the corner and continuation crack.

A superb though contrived variation to GLORY ROAD giving very hard climbing.

1. 25m 26 Start up GLORY ROAD. Climb crux of that route to the base of the flake. Follow the left hand crack exclusively to the top flake. Continue rightwards to the tree. Note: The right hand crack in the flake was not used at all. Using the right hand crack will make the route easier. (GLORY ROAD uses the right hand crack).

Climbs the crack 2.5m right of ELITE STREET (and therefore 9m downstream of RASP). Scramble up to a ledge and traverse right to the base of the crack.

1. 25m 25 Climb the crack past a mega hold to the base of a "shield". Continue up the right side of the shield to a ledge, move left, and climb more easily to the top.

18m downstream of a large collection of boulders in blocking the stream, on the true left, the kloof cuts back with a very attractive looking, purple-streaked overhanging downstream facing corner. The route takes this. Scramble 10m up to the obvious large ledge below the obvious corner.

1. 25m 25 Up the very sustained corner to belay in the tree.

Bold climbing up the tenuous flake-line left of TOTAL ON-SNORT.

1. 15m 25 Start 2m left of TOTAL ON-SNORT. Head slightly leftwards to peg. Straight up flakes (exiting left at the top).

This route is situated on the short overhanging face 60m upstream of the wade pool on the true left side of the kloof i.e. 20m or so upstream of FUTCH on the same side of the kloof. Scramble up onto the rock ledges below the start of FUTCH and walk left past DIRIGIBLE DOG. Scramble up about 4m to below the short face.

1. 15m 25 Start on the right and climb the obvious crack to a peg, move up with difficulty to good holds. Continue to the top.

Notes:

1. Peg left in-situ, placed on abseil.

2. Opened with multiple falls.

3. Excellent climbing - only shortcoming of the route is that it is short.

4. Maybe harder than 25.

Climbs the face to the right of TOTAL ON-SNORT past the bolts to a rail. A good wire protects the finishing moves.

Steep line first opened on natural gear.

Starts on 'Vandals', uses the first 3 bolts of 'Vandals' then breaks right onto 'Hoodlum' and continues on 'Hoodlum' to the top.

A steep natural crack line just left of FABERGE. This becomes a jelly of wasps in winter. It climbs the crack directly above the boulder with a U-bolt in it.

Start just left of the leaning tree, a fun route.

Starts from the boulders just above the lower pool. There is a dyno start with the route going left and finishing up and around the corner. The old bolts still need to be removed and must not be used at all.

A 10m route. 10m upstream of MIRROR MIRROR is a short overhanging wall. Starting off a boulder on the right, climb the broken crack-line to exit right to a ledge about 2m from the top of the wall. This route was originally opened by Roger Nattrass on natural at grade 24. A key hold has broken off to bring the grade up to 25 or maybe even 26?

This climb starts on the steep face above a boulder which is ascended after the pool. Climb up the face (1 bolt) to a ledge. Traverse left and up to a corner, climb the corner to a roof. Pull through the roof and climb the headwall to the top. (Permission has been given to retrobolt this route as long as long as the first ascent remains.)

The climb shares its start with MIRROR MIRROR. Head up right and up to the roof. Pull through the right hand side of the roof.

The route starts from the little island below the MIRROR MIRROR wall. Boulder up the start to a ledge and climb the open book to a small roof then pull though to chains.

A crimpy number that starts from the boulder with the first 2 bolts pre-clipped. The intention was to start the route from the ground, but a blank section has put that on hold, for now. There has in the past been a ball of wasps about 3m below the chains, so take care.

Just to the right of call of duty. "This line should never have been bolted" Ebert

Route begins at a half dead tree, runs up the right of a blocky light orange pink purple flat inclined wall. Sustained and wandering. Pumpy! MCSA/Boven Fund hardware. Opened on Trad.

Rebolted late 2016. 2nd, 3rd and 4th bolts seemed newer than the rest and was not replaced. May need a bolt between 4th and 5th. Take extra caution when attempting this line before more bolts are added.

The obvious and stunning leaning groove. Belay off the bolt on the ramp. Feels traddy so even if you climb 30, prepare to struggle. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware. Rebolted Andrew Pedley in 2015

Lurking at the top end of the main part of the kloof are some roofs on the right. This line cranks through the center of the ugliest one. 3 bolts. Traditional line, marked by bolts on the lip of a roof, near the top of the kloof. Bolts not replaced yet. Permission for full bolting has been granted on the condition of "not paving over the old route".

Use first 3 bolts of Mourn not Overmuch. Finish on the chains of Gollum.

Starts just right of the tree stump. a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. Used to be 24 until a crucial hold broke off next to the second bolt. Possibly 26 now.

T-Pex/Gollum link up. Start on T-Pec Direct, move left and end on Gollum, Gollum hole is out.

Climb up the arête.