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Fixed Gear: Both anchor bolts are loose

Both anchor bolts are loose

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Created 3 years ago

description

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.

Start: As for It'll Never Fly.

© (bomber pro)

Route history

20 Sep 1982First ascent: Chris Shepherd

Warnings

12 May 2021 Warning Fixed Gear: Both anchor bolts are loose

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.76237, 141.84582

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

25 Assigned grade
25 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
25 RockGUIDE: Victoria
25 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
25 [25 - 26] grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 83 from 263 ratings.

Difficulty - 25

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 22 ratings.

Suggested Grade

25

Based on 22 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 16
Flash 11
Red point 125
Pink point 18
Tick 51
Top rope 1
Attempt 209

Comment keywords

tired dyno powerful solid crux sustained pumped hard sandbag tough super pleasant exciting cool fantastic stoked good beautiful satisfying sweet lovely great classic awesome brilliant fabulous nice amazing fun fall tricky scary committing runout sharp arete sloper feet polished cruisy lip steep bail hands mantle crimpy undercling bad roof flake confusing technical face fingers dynamic jugs smooth crack rest dry short easy traverse

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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