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Operation Leo Area All Trad climbing 20 routes in cliff

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 14
  • Aka: Golden Triangle Wall
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AU
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Description

The gully between the Organ Pipes and Central Gully Left. More specifically, it's between Alchyne Wall and 'Brick Wall'.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles,Central Gully Left Side Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Approach

Scramble up the gully left of Brick Wall until the gully divides. There are climbs up both forks.

Descent notes

Carefully descend the gully or walk around the top to the Atridae descent.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

History

History timeline chart

For the record...4 new routes were claimed in this area but were repeats. All were either in Lou's guide or the Addendum to the second printing. "High in Marrowbone" was already Keeping the Tailend off Strike, "Feeling da Dog" is the Day Bryn's Dad got Scared and "7463-6" is Diet of Worms ... done in 1982. The route they called "Graedog" and put the nice shiny bolt in is actually Little Aesthetics, which was done before on trad.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Contents

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Routes

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Grade Route

Left Branch Back to contents

Go up the left hand branch to the top of the gully. The first climb is up here at the left end of the righthand wall.

2
22 ★ Traversalotomy Trad 15m

The slabby wall opposite Star Search and the main wall. Step on and up, to travers the bulge left to the last small deep wire, then up through crux to continue up slightly right to top. takes thin gear, small to medium wires, and slings.

FA: muki woods, Jae Zhong, Kane Hendy & Constantine Dritsas

FA: muki woods, 15 Apr 2020

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3
13 Operation Leo Trad 12m

The small crack/corner system on the L.

Start: At the top of the lefthand branch of the gully, on the R wall, are 2 flakes.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Sue Mills, 1981

4
17 Blue Chevrolet Ballerina Trad 16m

Up R to small flake, then up R to L end of a ledge. Poxy flake to finish.

Start: Start 5m down R of OL.

FA: Kim Carrigan & solo, 1982

5
20 Star Search Trad 12m

Start: In the middle of the wall right of Blue Chev' is a thin line.

Up this.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Smith, 1995

6
19 Red Valiant Charger Trad 12m

Start: Start right of Starsearch, under where the half height ledge ends.

FA: Smith, Hoskins & Pritchard, 1995

7
12 Shit View Trad 15m

Worthless. Starts 2m left of Great View. Up corner stepping right into Great View at top to avoid loose blocks.

FA: Hoskins & Pritchard., 1995

8
12 Great View Trad 15m

Start: Takes the east facing prow of 'Operation Leo' buttress.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Smith, 1995

Right Branch Upper Back to contents

Go up the righthand fork of the gully and up a short chimney to a flat area.

10
23 Little Aesthetics Mixed trad 10m, 1

Lovely line that has been inadvertantly retroed. The obvious line on the left wall.

Up obvious crack stepping right, up, then right again.

FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1995

11
20 Doddle Trad 10m

Continue up the gully to below the middle of the righthand wall. The line in the middle of the wall, with a reachy finish.

FA: Robin Miller & Nyrie Dodd, 1982

12
12 Keeping the Tailend Off Strike Trad 15m

There's probably a smutty double entendre here.

Start on the end of the wall right of Doddle.

The little corner then step right at top onto wee slab.

FA: Pritchard, Lattanzio & Hoskins, 1995

Right Branch Lower Back to contents

There are some flake cracks on the righthand wall of the lower gully. Two flakes meeting in an inverted V are a good landmark

14
26 ★★ So you think you can jamb Mixed trad 20m, 4

Just left of the wide left facing crack, Diet of Worms. Stick clip first bolt. Wide flaring crack (crux) then hand jam to sharp holds that lead slightly left and up, small wires available if needed. Take some slings for the bollards to the top.

FA: Muki Woods, Ingvar Lidman & Lachlan Hick

FA: muki woods & Hanz Fritzle, 2008

15
17 Diet of Worms Trad 15m

The wide L-facing flake-crack.

Start: Start 4m L of MYC.

FA: FRA Miller & Dodd, 1982

16
22 Mark You've Changed Trad 18m

"A good little route with a flake not unlike that on Moby Dick". Follow flake on righthand gully wall until it peters out. Traverse 2m L, then up face, tending R to easy arete.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Allan Wilkie & Malcolm Matheson, 1982

17
23 ★ Golden Triangle Mixed trad 20m, 23, 1

May start as for Mark You've Changed and then provide a direct finish to that climb. Or MYC may be just left of this. Needs another look.

Start at the lefthand of the flakes leading to the inverted V.

Up the obvious right facing flake then right ward on thin holds to a balance crux passing a bolt, then up to the anchor.

FA: Lachlan Hick & Muki Woods

FA: Lachlan Hick & muki woods, 2007

18
16 The Day Bryn's Dad Got Scared Trad 15m

Start below tooth-flake 3m right of Mark You've Changed.

Up right side of flake.

FA: Smith, Pritchard & Hoskins, 1995

Mr. Blobby Back to contents

If you go right past Keeping The Tailend Off Strike and walk towards the head of Central Gully you come to a petite little yellow buttress, Mr. Blobby. Matching the descriptions to the rock is an exercise left to the climber.

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20
12 Mr. Blobby Trad 8m

Start: The left most line.

FA: Hoskins, Lattanzio & Pritchard, 1995

21
14 Blobs Away Trad 8m

Start: The next line right.

FA: L, P & H, 1995

22
18 Cellulite Trad 10m

Good.

Start: Line on arete.

FA: L, P & H, 1995

23
20 Piking Metre Trad 8m

Try not to pike right.

Start: Line 2m right of 'Cellulite'.

FA: H & L, 1995

24
15 Six and Out Trad 8m

Good.

About 20m west of Mr. Blobby there is a gully with a short line on the left wall.

Up crack.

FA: P, L & H, 1995

There is a climb in the little hanging gully right of 'Six and Out' towards the Moby Dick pinnacle. It is described under Golden Fleece Wall.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Buy
ⓘ
Arapiles 444 Of The Best Climbing Guide

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Buy
ⓘ
Sublimb Climbs

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Buy
ⓘ

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