Routes in Arapiles for selected grade

Sustained crimpiness up microscopic edges. Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of Little Thor.

Tara Sutherland's Jan '98 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 29, followed shortly after by Megan Osborne.

Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly.

Up EotE to bolt then up bulging line between EotE and GT to join Intergalactic Space Control near the top. Watch your back.

There's 1 or 2 old bolt holes 1 to 2m to the right dating from an unknown attempt on this great nose of rock. Start 4m L of 'Mantis'. It's almost a sport route but you need a few med. cams before the bolts.

Sit start just left of arete then traverse R) across face via some shouldery moves.

Trackside Traverse to finish up ‘10’s Dyno (right arete out).

Very Steep Arete at far L

Sit start. Opposing side-pulls through middle of the roof

Bolts are mostly rusty (still the case as at Apr 2023) and should not be trusted. Start 6-8m R of LC. Very bouldery past the first FH then continuous past 4 more FHs, then finish off to the right where Concise Exercise finishes. Lower off.

The line a few people have claimed as Vague Corner, though almost completely independent and also very good. Start low on the prow right of Crankshaft crack and compress straight up using slopers either side. No use of the crack itself.

Just right of 'Crankshaft' crack without using that line at any stage. Same first couple of moves as Crankpression to obvious RH sloper but then stay in the line of the corner to finish. Devious and sharp.

Originally climbed at 31, but subsequent ascents have used the larger holds just L of the old crux.

Start: Boulder start through underclings left of The Undertaker to jug, then out to crimps out left and up, briefly into Siva Direct. Trend right up to a hard boulder problem finish (direct via the pinch). A left hand sequence is also possible.

After a few metres, break diagonally R and then power up past bolts to the lower-off L of Procol.

Start: As for 'Warmonger'.

Up The Great Escape to half height, then R and up to lower offs.

Originally bolted by Chris Shepherd, this link up was pointed out to Zac by Ingvar Lidman who promptly bagged the first ascent. Originally a sandbag at 29 ("more like 30 or 31," Zac) apparently a previously unused hold and an easier sequence has been found that makes it "only" 29.

Start up Masada, before veering L past a couple of bolts and some hard compression moves (crux) at half height. to the Judgement Day traverse. Finish through crux of Give Me Convenience or Give Me Death.

Once considered the hardest route in the country when introduced by Carrigan as Australia's first grade 30. Now considered a tad easier by modern standards. Start as for 'Trojan' and at its crux move left across the corner and onto the exposed arete. Take some deep breaths then get fired up for an intensely fingery experience above the flared layback, not to mention some acute footwork. At the top of the corner, make a move left to a jug and gain the finishing crack. A final tricky exit leads to the belay.

The direct finish to 'Masada'. Instead of branching out left at the top of the groove, continue straight up through another boulder problem (as if the original crux wasn't enough!)

The finger shredding line starting just left of the start to 'Mind Arthritis', then taking the very bouldery wall above it. 2 hard 2-move boulder problems with a virtual sit down rest between them mars a route with one of the best positions at Arapiles.

Up Shadows and Light to its second bolt. Step right to the pointy jug, then straight up (dyno) into Elongate.

Link Yesterday Direct into Use No Chooks.

Takes low line through roof that entrenched avoids via pinches.

Great sit start half way across Finalgon and direct through underclings and small crimp to top out in same line.

The tough-looking bulge just left of Pumping, to lower-offs. Name TBC.

start 7m right of Cadence. Up to the carrot, then trend right to join Stigmatised.

Start as for Slinkin' Leopard, then head left after the crux "drive by" through punchy boulder (trad) then finish up Fortress.

Straightens out Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin' but go direct and up to the end of the L-wards traverse

A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful.

Climbs the direct start to Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers.

The original start steps off the pillar at the 2nd bolt (left hand in pocket), and is a couple of grades easier.

Toby Pola - pulling on above the direct start... but below the original start!

Climb "High Dive" until its crux and continue up underside of arete past 2 bolts to join "Power Corruption and Lies"

You're Terminated Direct. Open Project. Direct start possible (will require a bolt) up the blunt arete between Dark Matter and A Taste of Honey.

Direct finish possible straight over bulge after 2nd bolt on You're Terminated. Would make the line completely independent of Lats in the Belfry.

Start 5m right of Seamy Side. Follow black streak up thin crack through bulges. When crack ends at around the 10m mark, step left and continue up clean headwall to top. Descend off Seamy Side anchors.