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Routes in Arapiles for selected grade

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Showing all 27 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Atridae The Flight Deck
30 Afterburner

Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains.

Start: Start as for JL.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Mixed trad 25m, 7
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side
30 Mr Natural

Looks like 36! Originally led on preplaced gear, repeated placing the gear by Gareth Llewellin - a pretty bold lead. Start a short way uphill from the back of the D Minor pinnacle, and just downhill from the boulder choke. Glassy bulging seam. Rack: Mostly #1 RPs.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1995

Trad 12m
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Swing Wing Boulder
V9 V9 problem
Boulder 3m
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
V8 Trackside traverse

Sit start just left of arete then traverse R) across face via some shouldery moves.

Boulder
V8 Traverse and Fly

Trackside Traverse to finish up ‘10’s Dyno (right arete out).

Boulder 4m
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder
30 Bliss

Two carrot bolts protect the face. Would be an amazing boulder/solo, but has not been done yet.

Sport
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder
V8 Nickotine

Very Steep Arete at far L

Boulder 5m
V8 10

Sit start. Opposing side-pulls through middle of the roof

Boulder
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area
30 Stop-Motion

Direct start to Moving Pictures past a rusty bolt or two.

FA: Dave Jones

Trad 20m
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face
30 The Mule

Start up Very Anxious then before joining Anxiety Neurosis move L under the roof and blast through the roof and up the overhanging wall above staying between Kama Sutra and AN. Finish at AN p1 loweroffs or continue up any pitch above to the summit. FA early noughties IIRC ... clarification welcome.

FA: Dave Jones

Mixed trad 25m, 4
30 Leaps and Bounds
Trad 35m
30 Leaps

Bolted by Kimbo decades ago, this long-standing problem succumbed to the short strong bloke with dreads. Start as for Anxiety Neurosis and boulder direct through the bulge to the start of Bounds and finish up it or Anticipation.

FA: Davey Jones, 1998

Sport 10m, 3
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
30 Expired

Link Required into Requited.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Mixed trad 30m, 5
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder
V9 Crankshaft Overdive

All the business on Crankshaft (traverse) then a couple of tough moves to gain the start holds of the 3 move V8 corner.

Aid 5m
V8 Crankpression

The line a few people have claimed as Vague Corner, though almost completely independent and also very good. Start low on the prow right of Crankshaft crack and compress straight up using slopers either side. No use of the crack itself.

Boulder
V8 Vague Corner

Just right of 'Crankshaft' crack without using that line at any stage. Same first couple of moves as Crankpression to obvious RH sloper but then stay in the line of the corner to finish. Devious and sharp.

Boulder
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder
V9 Sax Onion
Boulder
Castle Crag
30 Nati Dread

Power through the roof to the lip. The section after the roof was originally done by deviating R into the Low Down, then doing it's crux before continuing straight up. Has since been straightened out.

Start: R of Procol is a line of bolts through the ceiling.

FA: Andy Pollit, 1990

Mixed trad 30m, 5
Grotto Wall Area The Bat Cave
30 Living With a Hernia

Awesome power route taking the main line through the cave. "The best power route in Australia" (Nathan Hoette).

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2003

Sport 10m, 3
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
30 Punky Brewster

The master of combinations and permutations digs up another classic. This one links the "easy" bits of the two original routes.

Start as for Punks in the Gym, finish as for Pretty in Punk.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Trad 25m
30 Ethiopia

The prime line hereabouts. All the hard bit of India then step L and up the middle of the steep wall through the top roof to lower offs.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Mixed trad 30m, 3
30 Wisdom of Body

Not his finest addition. Brutally hard undercling moves and very, very rarely repeated. Start as for Nose Job then bust left.

Trad 15m
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Pharos Gully Bouldering Ministry of fig pluckers
V9 High traverse
Boulder
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Around the World Boulder
V8 The Final Chapter

Takes low line through roof that entrenched avoids via pinches.

Boulder
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Finalgon Boulder
V8 Finalgon Centre Direct

Great sit start half way across Finalgon and direct through underclings and small crimp to top out in same line.

Boulder
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
30 Chuckles Bolty

The "crazy linkup" of Lord of the Rings into Slinkin' Leopard.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

Trad
Far North Far North Bouldering Caving Boulder
V9 Sidepulls
Boulder

Showing all 27 routes.

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