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Area 51

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Description

Useful Info: Area 51, also known as Groom Lake, is a secret military facility about 90 miles north of Las Vegas. The number refers to a 6-by-10-mile block of land, at the center of which is a large air base the government will not discuss. The site was selected in the mid-1950s for testing of the U-2 spyplane, due to its remoteness, proximity to existing facilities and presence of a dry lake bed for landings. Groom Lake is America's traditional testing ground for "black budget" aircraft before they are publicly acknowledged. The facility and surrounding areas are also associated -- with varying levels of credibility -- with UFO and conspiracy stories. In 1989, Bob Lazar claimed on a Las Vegas television station that he had worked with alien spacecraft at Papoose Lake, south of Area 51. Since then, "Area 51" has become a popular symbol for the alleged U.S. Government UFO cover-up.

Routes are described right to left as you approach the crag.

© (bundybear)

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Park at the Gym/Swimming Pool Carpark.

Head straight up the hill on foot, passing the gym until you reach the fire access road (about 20 metres past the gym). There is a sign calling it the RED Track.

Follow this road down hill as it runs beside the Nattai River (looks more like a creek). After four or five minutes you should see a wooden post painted white on the bottom and red on top on the left side of the fire access road.

Walk 108 steps past this and then turn right off the road into bush down towards the river. Look for yellow tape on trees and cairns to guide the way.

Cross river easily and walk up steep hill veering gradually left as you go. Head up towards the cliffs at the top (about three to five minutes).

When you get to the cliff turn left and look for the ring bolts about five to ten metres along cliff. The first climb you come to is 'Butch'. This is a new crag so expect some loose rock for a while.

© (bundybear)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes are described right to left, starting at the river end of the crag and moving up hill.

First climb on cliff. Follow RBs up series of roofs to reach large sundeck. Climb middle of wall following

RBs (easier climbing up left edge of wall but not as nice). Head up to chain lower off. Lower off slowly to avoid rope wear over edge.

FA: G Murray

Left of B. Makes 51 a sport climb. Clip bolts on right hand wall to access rings on 51 headwall.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2003

Natural pro up a juggy crack. Start up the corner crack of 51 and move right at ledge and finish up obvious crack. Carefully traverse left at top and use 51 lower off.

Start: Start: At corner crack.

FA: W. Midson, 2000

Head up easy corner with cams and wires to reach first RB. Clip and head up jugs to chain lower off. 4 RBs and natural pro for bottom

FA: gavin murray

Climb large rock, clip first bolt and step on to wall at juggy overhang. Head up trending left to gain ledge. Move over slabby bulge to reach arete. Up juggy wall just left of arete clipping RBs as you go. Double chain lower off.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Simon Vaughan, 2000

Nice juggy face climb. Clip first RB, then difficult moves off ground. Cruise to double RB lower off. Five RBs in total.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2000

Start in the recess with the overhung book corner. Step right and romp to the top. Anchors over the lip in the top gold band.

Below crack left of T.

Up crack on natural gear, not very good by most accounts.

Start under the bookend corner. Trend left on large holds. A couple of great dynamic moves on dinner plate iron stone.

The following routes are on a small outcrop 200m down hill from the main area. Average trad routes on average rock.

Large crack on the main face. Start in the small cave. Either pull straight up at a grade harder or wimp out to the better rock on the right. Belay from the tree at the top.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2013

2 metres down hill from Schadenfreude. Up dirty dirty ledge to corner crack. Up to top.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2013

Same start as Ruined Childhood. At big ledge take the right hand thin crack. Care required with gear.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2013

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Sat 10 Jun
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