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Summary
Sandstone
a series of crack systems in nearly every pagoda and cliff line, finding the history of this place is vague but there is old lookouts, fences, picnic benches and steps carved into the sandstone here.
Description
almost every gully here has a bunch of cracks with the cliff in between each gully also containing crack or seams, the sandstone here is pretty good for blue mountains standards. most climbs have being done in two pitches just due to rope drag but the ciff line here is prodomently 30m high. this is a eastern facing gully that looks back onto mt york which is pretty rare to find a gully that gets sun all day and protected from the prodominant westerly winds, you can hide in your desired area to suit the weather conditions. this is a 100% trad area, so rack up and get your adventure on.
Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.
Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
Approach
from mt victoria you head towards browns gap road, once you get to the hassans walls trail you turn off and follow this until you see a small car pull off spot about two thirds of the way to hassans walls, park off the trail were there is two concrete blocks that used to be a park bench at one point in time. follow this trail down to the main gully and then depending on were you want to climb you can walk down any of the side gullies of each pagoda.
Ethic
no bolts or hardware, everything has being done ground up onsight here for the sense of adventure, bring your helmets and brush as you may well still be cleaning as you climb
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079082
The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.
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Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079075
Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!
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Mon 29 May
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