★★★ The Phoenix 20

Grade context: AU
Length: 45m
Ascents: 68

Access: Megalong Valley road closed due to landslide (April 2024)

All vehicle access to Megalong Valley climbing areas is closed due to major landslide of Megalong Rd. It is possible to access these areas from above via absiel but not recommended.

See warning details and discuss

Created 7 weeks ago

description

Long, sustained predominantly finger-crack climb with an exciting finish. Beautifully clean on good rock. Best done as one long 45m pitch (no rope drag). Bring the usually passive pro and doubles of cams 0.3 to 2, and singles 3, 4 and possibly 5. More small gear (0.3 and 0.4 or Aliens) keeps it sane. Be CAREUL of the loose blocks in the back of the off-width section. Crack completely re-cleaned October 2012.

Afternoon sun

Route history

2003	First ascent: J. Anderson & R. Charlton

Warnings

5 Apr 2024	Warning Access: Megalong Valley road closed due to landslide (April 2024)

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.66268, 150.27479

Grade citation

20	Assigned grade
	★★★Paul Frothy Thomson
18 [16 - 18] --	grAId
20	Vanessa Wills
20	Paul Frothy Thomson

ethic

Trad if possible, or mixed ...

inherited from The Phoenix

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 79 from 39 ratings.

Difficulty - 20

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 3 ratings.

Suggested Grade

Based on 3 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight	17	17
Flash	5	5
Red point	2	2
Tick	11	11
Attempt	1	1
Target	3	3

Comment keywords

crux desperate sustained hard incredible super exciting cool stoked good enjoyable sweet lovely great classic superb awesome brilliant nice amazing fun exposed fall tricky scary feet crazy vertical steep hands fist interesting slippery epic fingers face offwidth crack jamming rest dry short easy

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Blue Mountains Climbing Guide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Buy

ⓘ

Best Of The Blue Blue Mountains Select Guide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Buy

ⓘ