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Sharon Stone

18

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Description

The east facing orange wall seen as you walk down the tourist track to Celebrity Crags. Gets morning sun (until 11:30am in summer) and arvo shade.

Access issues inherited from Celebrity Crags

This is a shared use area with local residents and visiting bushwalkers. Don't spoil the place.

ACANSW has been advised by Blue Mtns City Council that car parking congestion along Burton St on weekends and pubic holiday periods is an access concern. Residents are lobbying Council to "solve" this issue and it is in climber's best interests to try and limit the amount of cars parked on Burton Street. Carpool if you can, walk or ride a bike if you are a local, park further away to spread out the congestion - Wombat Street is empty and only 100m away. Whatever you do, please don't park across driveways, party in the carpark, dump rubbish or otherwise make the residents life unpleasant.

Approach

From Cliff Richard continue following the cliffline left, scrambling down a bit of a rock step, then into another hidden gully (Slim Shady). On the far side of this gully follow cliffline left and out of the jungle into the sun and the wall proper. It's about an 8 min walk/scramble from the tourist track.

Descent notes

Lower-offs

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Clamber to ledge via rungs and rope. Route starts off log and was done WITHOUT bridging into the corner.

Set: lloyd wishart

FA: lloyd wishart, 15 Sep 2019

Was partially bolted, abandoned, and now cleaned up 20 years later. 3m R of Basic Instinct, up the slab past two rings onto the diving board. Very carefully up Corner, then out left to the arete. Continue up the right side of this with increasingly interesting moves. Hand traverse the holdless rising ramp, where a few more pulls will see you on the headwall with pleasant edges leading to the anchor.

Set: Frey Yule & Lee Cujes

FFA: Lee Cujes & @1293, 14 Apr 2019

Start where the track meets the rock. High stickclip to start; steep, moderate climbing for 6 bolts to a ledge below the 'slab'. A baffling move to overcome the slab and then it's game on up the headwall on cool pockets to an improbable-looking, dynamic crux. Take one long sling for the first bolt on the slab.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 14 Apr 2019

Climb Basic Instinct to the first ledge. Clip third bolt with long sling then climb up a few moves before traversing directly L out of BI along line of pockets and up to major ledge. Marble rock above this before encountering the bulge. Jetpack through this but keep some in the tank for the technical headwall up proud orange streak.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 22 Mar 2020

The next three routes require some planning to avoid rope drag on the headwall. Most climbers find the best approach is to climb the start boulder problem(s) to the ledge, clip the bolt above and make themselves safe on the ledge, pull the rope through the first few bolts, then drop the rope back down and get back on belay with two bolts clipped, and no drag. The judicious use of some longer draws on the middle sections of the routes will also help.

5m L of Basic Instinct. A boulder route with tricky sections split by ledge rests. Cool iron-cross boulder moving L under roof then up to ledge. Extremely steep elevator doors scoop section to more moderate headwall finish.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 28 Jun 2019

1m R of The Specialist. With its multiple roof boulders, has a very similar flavour to The Specialist, but likely a touch harder. Deceptive headwall finale.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 13 Sep 2019

Up pockets and through roof to ledge. Full body climbing through the next steep section to ledge. A lower angle final third caps things off. Take a couple of long slings and kneepads.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 1 Sep 2019

3m L of TS. This boulder problem on a rope climbs through the distinctive hole in the roof before getting to grips with some very small holds. Very hard to grade as the key move is a long reach - span will affect difficulty. Climbed with first two bolts clipped and no cairn - the start move is part of the route.

FA: Lee Cujes, 27 Oct 2019

A bouldery number. Batman, boulder past second bolt before clipping it. Before reaching up to left hand clipping pocket at crux, lay rope between thumb and forefinger on left hand as typical clip from waist in the dropknee will wrap rope under left wrist during crux. FA had 18cm draw on crux. All action to the very top.

FFA: Eww, 4 Mar 2021

Batman then up right.

Batman start as for SVASR then head right and up.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 31 May 2020

Batman start. Long and varied with a sting in the tail. Popular!

Set: lloyd wishart, 2017

FFA: lloyd wishart, 1 Mar 2019

Shared first bolt with Beaver Shot then the right line of bolts. Finishes a little lower than most routes on this wall under big roof. Scary hard move to reach the anchors - can be done both left and right ways. The extension does go for whoever is keen.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 15 Feb 2019

Another bouldery start past flake. Up the wall to a confounding section under the roof. Breach the roof, then directly up to anchors.

Set: lloyd wishart, 2017

FA: lloyd wishart, 18 Feb 2018

Start off cairn with committing move, then pumpy steep climbing to left set of anchors on the slab directly above last bolt.

Set: lloyd wishart, 2017

FA: lloyd wishart, 12 Dec 2017

Start at the left end of the wall and smile all the way. Both juggy and pumpy.

FA: lloyd wishart, 10 Feb 2018

Far left end of wall is a steep crack - with a rusty piton down low (1980s? Origin unknown). Climbs surprisingly well as a toprope problem off the anchor of HoP, with a few small-mid size cams for directionals and a little care of your rope run. Would certainly be worth the effort of cleaning the veg and snappy rock, and updating the pin, to make it leadable.

Start at very left end of crag on top of big starting block. Up corner and slabs then through roof (extend bolt below roof) and up wall to anchors. Enjoy the exposure!

FFA: lloyd wishart, 7 Apr 2019

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

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