★★★ Whymper 19

Classic face climbing above a lot of worrying space. All bolts, take 11 brackets, a sling and prussics for whoever is seconding. All carrots have small heads, so maybe clip the first ones with fat old biners, or add a wire so the brackets don't tinkle off.

Start left of a steep orange nose 30m left of Sweet Dreams, or about 100m after the cable traverse.

1. 25m (19) Tough move through first rooflet then head right around arête and diagonally up face to ledge and 2 Ubolt belay on right.

2. 25m (18) 2 Ubolts then stainless glued carrots from now on. Traverse left and out to arête. Up this to first cave and DBB hidden around to the left.

3. 25m (19) The money pitch. Exposed! Up right easily to second cave then up and out left to overhung arête, up to semi hanging belay on small ledge and 3BB.

4. 35m (19) Up arête past two BRs to cave and double U bolts. You can belay here or clip a U with a long sling and step right, up wall and roof, then diagonally R to 2U belay.

5. 35m (16) Right and up on ironstone plates over roof past Ubolts on left, then diagonally R to top and tree belay well back.

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.