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Flames Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 9
5

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Description

This crag is located on the Medlow Bath cliff line between The Underworld and Pole 28 crags. The routes start from the halfway ledge and the crag is about 25 m high. The three original climbs were protected by a mix of carrot bolts (glue-in), ring bolts and cams/SLCDs (where horizontal breaks or pockets were present); as such they are not sport routes. A couple of unknown sport routes have been added recently. Routes described L-R.

This area is located on private property owned by the Hydro Majestic Hotel. Access could be removed at any time. Please respect the land.

Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Many of these crags are located on private property - and could be closed at any time. Do not piss off local residents by parking cars at the end of Belgravia St - park back near the train line and walk 100m up the road.

The Belgravia St descent track and Devondale bouldering is located on private property (it is NOT owned by the Hydro Majestic Hotel). This property changed hands in 2018 for a cool $1.9 million, and the new landowners have not expressed concerns about the public on their land - yet. It is very important that this property is treated with utmost respect - and if you are approached by the owners then please be courteous. If they have concerns please get them to contact ACANSW.

Blue Mountains City Council is the land manager for The Block, Katoomba Bros, Sandpit, Valley Farm & Sooty Crag. Access to all these areas is via the private land mentioned above.

The mega lux Hydro Majestic Hotel owns private land that includes the Sunbath Wall, Reservoir Dogs, Sporting Complex, The Underworld & Pole 28. Access to to these private land crags is NOT guaranteed and could be closed at any time.

DJ crag is also located on private property - with the owner apparently living below the cliff itself.

Approach

The easiest option is to follow an old, made track all the way to and along the base of the crag. This track starts near the entrance to the lower car park for the Pole 28 crag. The track goes down the hill briefly to the creek line, which is then followed down. On approaching the cliff edge (5-10 min), walk to the right around the corner of the crag (facing out) to the climbs.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

History

History timeline chart

The crag was originally named because of the orange streaks on the wall around ‘Up in Flames’. Flames Wall can be seen clearly from the top of The Sporting Complex.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Some good rock and moves. Start as for UIF, then left a few metres across the ledge to a carrot bolt. Then go straight up the grey rock past another carrot bolt to the small ledge. Follow the steeper orange rock past cam placements and ring bolts. Exit the crux by stepping up to the left, then up to clip the last ring before the loweroffs. Take bolt plates, a 1.2 m sling to extend the second carrot bolt on UIF before traversing left on the initial ledge, and cams, including #3, #0.5 and #4 (immediately after crux) Camalots. Three ring bolts in total.

FA: M. Franklin & A. Geoghegan, 2011

Climbs the grey and orange wall to finish up the closed flake at the top. Locate the first carrot bolt just over a slabby bulge to start. Climb up past a second carrot then small cams in pockets to a minor ledge and the first ring bolt (avoid the potentially loose block on the left here). Climb up into the orange rock past rings and cam placements, then up the flake to the loweroffs. Take bolt plates, cams including #0.4, #0.5, #0.75 and #3 Camalots, and a couple of extendable runners. Five ring bolts in total.

FA: M. Franklin & A. Geoghegan, 2011

Start as for Up in Flames for two carrot bolts then right line of ringbolts. Caution - the rock quality deteriorates at the top two bolts. First ascent info unknown.

Orange bolted streak about 20m right of Unknown. Some poor quality rock. Stickclip first bolt and climb to the right of it. First ascent info unknown.

This climb goes up the sharp arete feature approximately 20 right of UIF. The start is above an under-cut section of the wall. Stick-clip first ring and batman up to establish hands on the lip. Pull up and on to the wall (crux) then climb up to the ledge past a break that takes a #4 Camalot. Rings and different sized cams protect the middle third of the climb, which is a pleasant vertical wall, to another ledge. From there, climb the nicely positioned final sharp arete past three rings to loweroffs. Six ring bolts in total.

FA: M. Franklin & A. Simson, 2013

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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