Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 17th May 2024 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Air Malta - with Sean Peters | 220m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mon 29th Apr 2024 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
- with
Elliot Kals
3
22
60m
lead by
Alec Landstra
Great face moves off the deck, then a very enjoyable slab with some awesome tufa moves. Even the drop down traverse is great!
4
25
30m
lead by
Alec Landstra
One of the best pitches around! Sitting on that tufa is such a novelty! Great rock, position and moves!
5
23
20m
lead by
Alec Landstra
Nearly cooked this one when I committed to sequence that was very hard to reverse. Luckily I found the right way eventually
6
22
60m
lead by
Alec Landstra
Was expecting a chossy ramble to the top of the cliff, but ended up getting a fantastic long pitch on great rock! | 220m, 18 | |||||
A simply stunning adventure! Every pitch is great!
|
|||||||
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
1
21
35m
2
22
30m
3
22
30m
4
18
30m
| 130m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Took a long long time. Some very thin sections at the grade, definitely much harder than strangeness and harder than the start of evolution.
Pretty sure we found the right line based on the description, but found it rather desperate.
|
|||||||
24 |
★★★ Evolution
1
15
15m
2
22
30m
3
21
35m
4
23
25m
5
22
30m
6
24
25m
7
23
55m
Mega route! And i actually liked the opening pitches, definitely better than iron curtain if you wanted to do a short multi. The top crux does require gear, and i placed a few acceptable nuts above the #2 cam. Still took a big fall from just below the last bolt. Everything apart from this is reasonable to dog up on the bolts. | 220m, 55 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Evolution
1
15
15m
2
22
30m
3
21
35m
4
23
25m
5
22
30m
6
24
25m
7
23
55m
| 220m, 55 | |||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
1
23
30m
2
21
20m
3
22
60m
4
25
30m
5
23
20m
6
22
60m
| 220m, 18 | |||||
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Evolution
- with
Dave Cook
6
24
25
7
25
55
| 80m, 55 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
2 burns on the 24, so close 2nd go! Got the beta for the boulder problem and felt solid on ‘other end of evolution’ up high on the fins! Great day out
|
|||||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Evolution
- with
Dave Cook, kale
6
24
25m
7
23
55m
| 80m, 55 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Reminding myself of the beta to go ground up again!
|
|||||||
Mon 28th Aug 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Air Malta - with Jonas Paget | 220m, 18 | |||||
Crux pitch is amazing, annoyed I punted on my 2nd attempt but a great day out nonetheless.
|
|||||||
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
26 |
★★★ Siblings Of The Sun
- with
Michael Houghton
2
21
40m
lead by
Michael Houghton
Just as I was starting this lovely, slabby traverse, the rain came in. Got myself quite scared, and a combination of wet holds, the pack, and not trusting my feet made me give up and step on the anchor for the downclimb from the last bolt
4
22
35m
lead by
Brendan Coulter
A few fun moves almost makes up for the tree-induced rope-drag and the dirty chossy groove
6
24
35m
lead by
Brendan Coulter
THIS is the money pitch! It’s almost good enough to make you forget about the first 5. Stoked with how well I read the route, and climbed smoothly in such an epic spot.
7
26
15m
lead by
Brendan Coulter
Got all the way to the last bolt before the pump caught up with my bad route reading. Tough little number, but surprisingly enjoyable. Quality chipping | 260m, 61 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A little bit of rain on-route obviously isn’t enough to scare us off - even if it did scare me a little. Stoked to get back out here and do a long route, and super glad I had Mike to rope gun some of those early pitches.
Prefacing this: I LOVED the slabs on jumpmaster… Honestly though, skip the ground-up, and rap in for the top pitches. The 24 is worth every bit of effort, but the first 5 pitches were 1-star at best. |
|||||||
Fri 7th Jul 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 Easy |
★★★ Air Malta
1
23
30m
2
21
20m
3
22
60m
4
25
30m
5
23
20m
6
22
60m
| 220m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Classic! I slipped off the slippery sidepull trying to static the dyno above the tufa blob. I pulled back on and sat at the no hands before doing it properly. That counts right?
Pitch 5 was a hoot and had me blowing a gasket when I reached the muddy pocket. |
|||||||
Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
- with
Liv
1
23
30m
lead by
Luke Yerbury
Pretty on straight off the deck, was glad to have the first bolt stick clipped (a good stick available on the ledge). Up and down-climbed the mantle crux a couple of times before finding a comfy way through.
2
21
20m
lead by
Liv
Got good once it steepened.
3
22
60m
lead by
Luke Yerbury
Super fun bouldery start, followed by insecure slab climbing. This pitch just keeps on going. The texture on that orange rock is wild, you stick like velcro.
4
25
30m
lead by
Luke Yerbury
Sooooo good!!! Had a long rest and a bit of lunch before starting up this, and I was feeling quite jittery when I finally started. Got pumped pretty quickly in the overhang looking for the good holds and was relieved when I realised you could rest sitting on the stalactite - except my rope got stuck and I had to downclimb a bit to free it before I could rest. Jeeeez. Managed to dyno to a jug after the rest and trucked my way up to a long move out left where the pump got too much. What a wild ride!
5
23
20m
lead by
Luke Yerbury
This felt reeally hard after the last pitch. Super pumpy, even with a handsfree kneebar.
6
22
60m
lead by
Luke Yerbury
My brain was struggling on this pitch. The cumulative tiredness from the weekend hit and I was forgetting how to rock climb, and fuck me, 60m is a lot of rock climbing. Topped out and shared some victory choccy. Absolute bliss! An incredible day on rock. | 220m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First time in bungonia and first time climbing limestone. Pretty blown away by the whole experience. Done in 10hrs car to car at a very leisurely pace. Crazy contrast between the juggy steep orange walls and the grey slabs - which took me most of the day to get comfy trusting my feet on.
|
|||||||
Mon 5th Jun 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Jump Master
- with
Peter Melouney
1
19
15
lead by
Peter Melouney
The rock looked okay for the first part, turns out the pockets are wet and muddy and the upper part was just a mud slap. Respect and great lead from Pete 🤘🏼
2
21
40
lead by
Peter
We figured the wet limestone in combination with this mossy clay is very tricky to climb. Got it clean till the mental💦
3
22
45
lead by
Peter
This pitch looked already much better,but it still had some very slippery sections. Probably my most scary and hardest lead this trip. | 200m, 60 | |||||
Second day in the Gorge, apparently it rained over night, still foggy and the walls aren't in prime condition but we decided to climb anyway.
|
|||||||
Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Evolution
- with
Peter Melouney
7
25
40
lead by
Peter
The boulder problem went at 4th go and is a little tricky but okay if you do the sequence right, also long arms might help. Finished the pitch with The other side of evolution and got this onsight after the boulder problem, both combined it feels like a 25 to me. All in all absolutely dream day in the Gorge, with Peter. | 200m, 55 | |||||
Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Jump Master - with Peter | 200m, 60 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Light rain overnight and foggy morning. P1-3 were wet and very slippery and aided on second through most of it. P4 mostly dry and good climbing. P5/6 felt hard for me.
|
|||||||
Fri 2nd Jun 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Other End of Evolution - with Peter | 30m, 12 | |||||
Steep climbing and some burly moves...found it quite difficult and pulled on most of the draws. Impressive lead by Peter.
|
|||||||
24 |
★★★ Evolution
- with
Peter
| 160m, 55 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First time at bungonia. This place is epic! We had great conditions and a fantastic day of climbing. Finished up the other end of evolution.
|
|||||||
Sat 20th May 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Iron Curtain - with Sean Peters | 130m | |||||
Sun 7th May 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
- with
Jett Legge
1
23
30m
2
21
20m
3
22
60m
4
25
30m
5
23
20m
6
22
60m
| 220m, 18 | |||||
Awesome day out, keen to come back and have a crack at the send.
|
|||||||
Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
1
23
30m
2
21
20m
3
22
60m
4
25
30m
5
23
20m
6
22
60m
| 220m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
28 |
★★★ Luminous Blue
1
23
50m
lead by
Kai Buckman
Was happy with how I did on this one, was pretty consistent climbing until the end which I found slightly harder (and spooky took a good stumbly fall before committing and getting it).
2
24
40m
lead by
Kai Buckman
I could totally get this next time, better at steeper stuff so suited me more but was harder so balanced out. Fell a few times at the crux but worked it out, the slab after was run out but not the spookiest
3
28
30m
I ascended past most, cool features. Give it a year or so and I’ll give it a crack
4
27
30m
Actually got a large amount of moves on this one, had some fun hand jams
5
23
50m
Got some hella elbow cramps, think I got all the way to 1 hanger before the anchors but didn’t have enough energy left, gave the same move like 5 goes and just had very little strength left. Bailed out air Malta which took a tree traverse right from the base of this pitch, there was one anchor and a hanger we clipped before getting to the base of the last pitch of air Malta | 200m, 99 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Big fan, but need to be much better even when mark did all the hard stuff.
|
|||||||
Fri 3rd Mar 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 Hard | ★★★ The Bridge to Total Freedom - with Hamish Kerr | 190m, 48 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a cracker of a route! Every pitch is interesting and excellent. The ultimate pitch is just one hell of a mega journey - exposed, pumpy, steep, tufa goodness. It just keeps going.
Unfortunately my trad dad form let me down - the last pitch was abysmal. Many rests. I whipped twice on pitch two - on the easy terrain after both cruxes. First because a pocket crumbled in my fingers and the second because I slipped on dirty rock. Take it easy out there kids. |
|||||||
Mon 30th Jan 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
- with
alyssa smirnov, Blueoffset
4
25
30m
lead by
Blueoffset4lyf
Refused to try dead point as description and name details a dyno, dropped it pulled back on dead point is a way better move | 220m, 18 | |||||
Tue 24th Jan 2023 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 Easy |
★★★ Air Malta
- with
mad dog
1
23
30m
Felt 22 knowing the beta
2
21
20m
lead by
mad dog
Popped a hold off on the easy slab
3
22
60m
Hard start
4
25
30m
Very happy,
5
24
20m
Very sad three crux’s in a row, good pocket is full of mud
6
22
60m
1 move wonder | 220m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Was a day of friendship, no water in the river! Mad dogs first time, 9 hours car to car, started climbing at 1, 24c little wind at the end SE
|
|||||||
Wed 14th Dec 2022 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Evolution | 220m, 55 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Ended up starting earlier than wed planned for 2 equally nobl3 reasons, yim wanted the school kids to see him leading high on the wall and because i didnt want to lose my benightment Vs. I got abit lost on the wandery 3rd pitch but other than that we were 5 out of 7 down at 130. Pretty good position. Then yim jumped on the 24, wigged above a no. 2 hed shifted 3 times already, took a flogger and the 2 followed him down. In high wind, i heard only 'take' out of: 'im gonna take a fall'. 2 fairly different instructions unfortunately. Considering aforementioned wind and being 150m off the canyon floor, the big marn had had enough; lowered down so i could heroically show the kids how french free with a full nappy works. 9hrs car to car, yim reminded me to mention this as a boasting point but really it speaks more to a lack of onsighting aspiration. Some lights out climbing in this place, i will certainly make a trip back here someday.
|
|||||||
Sun 27th Nov 2022 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
24 ~25 | ★★★ Evolution | 220m, 55 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Finally clean finishing up otherside, bolt ladder is very doable (v4). Maybe a crag update, I would think a new clean true evolution line, is ditch the aid ladder number and the left exit(pretty crap rock) and have the evolution proper finish up ’otherside’.
|
|||||||
Fri 25th Nov 2022 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ The Bridge to Total Freedom
- with
Heath Black
1
22
20
Amazing flake feature into total desparation on the delicate lichenous slab above.
2
23
35
Very cool slabbing with a hard crux high step.
3
19
20
Absorbing adventure up incipient cracks in the slab.
4
22
28
5
24
35
Awesome fun start section, then cool pockety climbing into a crux sequence towards the end. Fell at crux and had a rest on the #3 camalot above. Feet were sooo sore at the end of this pitch.
6
22
25
Really good. Best approached as an Araps style trad pitch with a couple of bonus bolts thrown in. Had to sit on a piece to retrive a well overcammed camalot.
7
25
30
Gob smacking position and stellar climbing up the tufa system. Stuck the span into the big grey tufa onsight, then it became a fine A0 ascent from there. | 190m, 48 | |||||
A spectacular day out. An absolutely brilliant route blasting directly up the wall.
|
|||||||
Mon 19th Sep 2022 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 | ★★★ The Bridge to Total Freedom - with Dave Cook, Ryan Macpherson | 190m, 48 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
This time sent everything but the first move!! Bugger
First 25 flash
Bridge to Total friendship.
Blue man group
Boatman the 4th pitch is a tradition
The princess, green dragon and blue cockatoo a great day 9 hours car to car . Or 8hours who knows
|
|||||||
25 | ★★★ The Bridge to Total Freedom - with Sausage, Dave Cook | 190m, 48 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Bridge to total Friendship
|
|||||||
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 24 | ★★★ Evolution - with Matilda Elder | 220m, 55 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Freed everything including the bolt ladder the fell on the mantle very last move(otherside of evolution). Fuckkkkkk
|
|||||||
Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Evolution - with Maria LC | 220m, 55 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What an adventure on the glorious limestone of Bungonia! Enjoyable morning walk down into the gorge. Got a bit wet on the water crossing, I now recommend pants off. Stay close to the river until a small path leads up through the easy angled short rock walls. Took us 1.5 hours to get to the start of the climb after moving off the river path too early. I was leading odds and Maria, evens. P1: short easy trad pitch, bit dirty and wandery but easy enough. P2: here starts the real climbing. Description was right, strenous around the 2 FH below the thread. I seconded and aided through this section with the full backpack. P3: in the sun now, temps were perfect, tshirt weather. Fun moves to get up to the ledge, past some vegetation and onto the rightwards ramp. Easy terrain, good pro into delicate traverse right, 0.3 cam underneath the overlapping rock. Moved up above the overlap with a high foot but the traverse back left to hidden jug looked too difficult so I moved delicately straight up slab and left for the finish. P4: Most of the trad climbing done for the day. Fantastic pitch, up diagonal corner, over onto pumpy mega fun ground. P5: Pitch of glory. Stoked to get to the lunch cave. P6: Strenuous as described. The lighter bag did not assist. P7: Aided past first three with help of a cam. Past next bolt and trended left, placing two cams to overcome the nerves and get around the arête. Delicate bridging, mostly stayed left of the corner and then 25m through dirt, choss and scramble to gum tree. Made it to the lookdown before sunset. Under 11 hrs car to car.
|
|||||||
Thu 21st Jul 2022 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Evolution
1
15
15m
2
22
30m
3
21
35m
| 80m, 55 | |||||
22 |
★★ Red Heat (Red Heat Linkup first 3 pitches of Evolution)
1
22
242m
linkup first 3 pitches of Evolution
4
5
6
7
| 240m, 1 | |||||
Thu 30th Jun 2022 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Air Malta | 220m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Absolutely amazing. Accidentally climbed the first 2 pitches of luminous bluebut then managed to traverse across to the last 3 pitches and they were absolutely mega
|
|||||||
25 | ★★★ Air Malta | 220m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 26th Jun 2022 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
29 |
★★★ Luminous Blue
- with
Dave Cook
| 310m, 99 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Not a single bad pitch! Bolted perfectly - with bolts where you need them, mostly safe falls, and runouts where appropriate.
At times the line nudges you into hard terrain, but this rarely feels forced and will feel less so if you don't do much trad multipitching. Dirty down low, and loose rock in places throughout the rest of the route that will clean up with traffic. In time and further cleaning this will quickly become a testpiece I reckon! A big day (After a week skiiing) mired by reminders of my lack of big day fitness and on-the-day hydration embodied in cramping hands, forearms, biceps and shoulders. The cramping was so bad in the last 20 pitch that I had to climb completely straight armed haha. Did the 26, 27 and 28 pitches with a handful of falls. Aided through the 29 pitch with a stickclip which was hard with cramping even then! Plus, with only one headtorch between us (my bad!), the setting sun told us it was time to go haha. Standout pitches were the 28, 26, and 29. The 28 is the first of the wild steepness and exposure - steep jug/tufa blob pulling into a delectable vert techy headwall to finish. 26 was a short, but stellar clean vert face number, and although we didn't do the 29 - it looks like the cream of the crop. One of the most unique pitches I've seen in Aus on cool limestone features! Very motivated to come back for this with a clean push. Thanks for the amazing day Dave! Couldn't have asked for a better partner for a fun big day out |
|||||||
Tue 14th Jun 2022 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
1
23
30m
2
21
20m
3
22
60m
4
25
30m
5
23
20m
6
22
60m
| 220m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Such an epic adventure. Last time I came to Bungonia I wasn't ready at all which resulted in a gnarly groundfall. This felt completely different, I was stoked with how I was climbing and my headspace. I came off on the final driveby of the 25. I'm pretty satisfied and keen to come back and step it up a notch. Jumping off the tufa was one of the coolest moves I've ever pulled.
|
|||||||
Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Jump Master
| 200m, 60 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So good to be back on some grey limestone slabs! Left the ground at midday, and topped out at sunset. Westerlies tearing through the canyon kept it cold enough to be climbing the crux in puffy and thermals.
Pulled through the cave on the crux pitch thinking I was about to get the onsight… turns out there was one more crux! |
|||||||
Sun 13th Feb 2022 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Evolution - with Sausage | 220m, 55 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 16th Nov 2021 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Evolution - with Matilda Elder | 220m, 55 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First multi with Tildo since PP. was awesome
Dropped the red point feeling fresh and missing the biggest bucket on the 24 pitch. Had to get back to the grandparents! So no time for another go!!
|
|||||||
Mon 25th Oct 2021 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Evolution
- with
di die
1
14
10m
2
21
30m
3
21
35m
4
23
25m
5
22
30m
6
24
25m
7
23
55m
| 210m, 55 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
10hr car to car, awesome fun with Di psych was high and I didn’t sleep the night before cause I was so excited.
P1 short then expected, will try and link to P2 next time
P2 barn doored annoyingly, will take two #2 + draws for this next time and that’s all
P3 most annoyingly dangerous Pitch tall beta might be big move to good hold place small cam then big move, short venture out right on easy ground with bad fall potential.
P4/5/6 awesome pumpers would only take #2s and a #1 plus recommended draws
P6 fell off at the last draw so close
P7 contrived climbing after draw pulling feels easy take your nuts and slings
Will be back many times, best multi close to Canberra
|
|||||||
Mon 13th Sep 2021 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
1
23
30m
2
21
20m
3
22
60m
4
25
30m
5
23
20m
6
22
60m
7
| 220m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
22 | ★★★ Iron Curtain | 130m | |||||
19 | ★ Arachnophobia | 35m | |||||
Mon 31st May 2021 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
- with
Dave Cook
1
21
35m
2
22
30m
3
22
60m
| 130m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice slab in the -7 temps we where graced with this morning - not as good as other slabs on this wall though it would be a classic anywhere else in Australia
Couldn’t feel my fingers or toes, was an all time classic day in the gorge
|
|||||||
Sun 16th May 2021 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Evolution
- with
James Bailie
2
22
30m
4
23
25m
6
24
25m
7
23
55m
| 220m, 55 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Strewth what a Pearler!
Was dragged up this route a couple of years ago when i was a tad grean, so stoked to come back and climb it again. still alot to imporve on though! Sadly had to pull on a fixed sling on pitch 2, poped of the crux on pitch 4 and dogged the F**K out of pitch 6, though still good fun. pitch 7 was actully a decent little outing. Not sure why people think some of these grades are soft!, though it could just be my weak trad body not addapted to cranking hard... ps. loose bolt on pitch 6 that is sticking out considerably! proably just needs a tighten though |
|||||||
Sun 9th May 2021 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
26 |
★★★ Kia Kaha Direct (Kia Kaha Direct P1)
1
26
30m
| 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
1st pitch only - but what a pitch! Gotta be some of the best climbing in the state! I've gotta come back for that second pitch.
|
|||||||
Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Jump Master
- with
Ben Schaeffer
1
19
15m
2
21
40m
3
22
45m
4
22
50m
5
23
20m
6
25
30m
| 200m, 60 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
All clean to the last bolt on pitch 6 . Too tired to give it another crack. It's not over till it's over.
|
|||||||
Fri 23rd Apr 2021 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Jump Master - with Ben Schaeffer | 200m, 60 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
P6 only, working out sequences
|
|||||||
Sun 4th Apr 2021 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Air Malta | 220m, 18 | |||||
25 |
★★★ Jump Master
- with
Ben Schaeffer
1
19
15m
2
21
40m
3
22
45m
4
22
50m
5
23
20m
6
25
30m
| 200m, 60 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wed 3rd Feb 2021 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
23 | ★★★ White Noise | 35m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice addition Carlos - moves out of the gash had me pumped out of my marbles so got a few takes
|
|||||||
24 |
★★ Albino
- with
Dave Cook
1
22
35m
2
21
40m
3
20
45m
4
22
20m
5
23
30m
6
24
50m
| 220m, 55 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Summer slabs - perfect for the toes! 23 pitch was hard to read the crux of where it actually goes
Figured it out lowered to the jug below the crux and took it to the top
|
|||||||
Fri 18th Dec 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
23 20 M1 | ★★★ Red Supergiant | 370m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hahaha what a bloody journey. We climbed fairly true to the description on http://sydneyclimbing.com/Bungonia+Gorge.html
Few things, it's pretty fucking rad to get a feel for the history of the cliff and do the original route. It is loose, long, natural and absolutely Alpine. An awesome adventure that tests your ability to stay calm in shit situations and just get the job done. Soooo much crap rock and actual danger in the climb so if you're just climbing 20 you need to steer clear. It's several hundred metres of do not fall for you or your second with some real spicy bits whether you're on route or not! Loved it, happy to get out alive and probably wouldn't recommend it to others. Some route finding beta: For pitch 7 when you wander right to avoid the "steep stuff" you end up at a beautiful red wall with a few bolted routes. Once you see this, traverse left to a crack you can see on the left of the wall which is part of a kind of pillar. Go up this and there's an anchor there if you want to stop for rope drag or head right up a ramp for the finish of pitch 7 and start of pitch 8 For the final pitch, REALLY recommend bringing a massive hex to protect the final moves on garbage mud style rock. If not you're risking it all with your last bit of hear over 10m away around a corner on rock that crumbles in your hand. PS there is an unmentioned 23~ crux at the start of the 7th pitch and whilst I managed to free the aid section, felt a lot harder than 23 Overall, psyched and humbled by the rad Alpine adventure 😊 |
|||||||
Mon 14th Dec 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
26 |
★★★ Siblings Of The Sun
- with
Dave Cook
1
22
35m
2
21
40m
3
23
45m
4
22
35m
5
21
30m
6
24
35m
7
26
15m
8
18
20m
| 260m, 61 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
3rd time on here, rapped in for crux pitches - tried leading the 24 till I ripped 2 pieces and freaked myself and let it get to me for both days out
I’ll be back after some training Nice leads from Dave and another excellent trip to the gorge |
|||||||
Oct 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
- with
Ben Schaeffer
1
21
35m
2
22
30m
3
22
30m
4
18
30m
| 130m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
25 |
★★★ The Bridge to Total Freedom
- with
Ben Schaeffer
1
22
20m
2
23
35m
3
19
20m
4
22
28m
5
24
35m
6
22
25m
7
25
30m
| 190m, 48 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
I can't wait to do this again. We climbed it the day after Evolution, I spent the day falling and jugging my way up. The features and exposure on the crux pitch are amazing.
|
|||||||
24 |
★★★ Evolution
- with
Ben Schaeffer
1
15
15m
2
22
30m
3
21
35m
4
23
25m
5
22
30m
6
24
25m
7
23
55m
| 220m, 55 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really good. We made a bad choice on the exit pitch though
|
|||||||
Sat 19th Sep 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Air Malta | 220m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Makes for a great day out. Took about 8hrs from the start to back at the carpark
|
|||||||
Fri 18th Sep 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
- with
Alessandro Zen
| 240m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Team send! The weather gods blessed us with a nice cloudy day and a breeze so we didn't cook in the sun, couldn't have been better!
|
|||||||
Thu 17th Sep 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
18 | ★★ Pulsar | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Scary traverse
|
|||||||
26 |
★★★ Siblings Of The Sun
1
22
35m
2
21
40m
3
23
45m
4
22
35m
5
21
30m
6
24
35m
7
26
15m
8
18
20m
| 260m, 61 | ★ Good | ||||
18 |
★★★ Siblings Of The Sun (Siblings Of The Sun P8)
8
18
20m
| 20m, 61 | |||||
rapped in to avoid walk in/walk out, only did the top pitch, kinda cool.
|
|||||||
Wed 16th Sep 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
18 | ★★ Pulsar | 45m | |||||
Committing, spicy, and not well protected for the crux. Definitely glad I wasn’t leading.
|
|||||||
Sun 13th Sep 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
26 |
★★★ Asteroids
- with
Dave Cook
| 180m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nearly a dream send but it was not to be. After sitting below the crux pitch for quite some time as it rained and others bailed we decided we should at least have a crack at the steepness. And I somehow found myself all the way up there with the last bolt at my chest unable to clip it, looking around as rain hit my face, grabbing desperately at a horrid collection of damp non-holds one move away from the anchor ledge. Alas I finally succumbed to the pump, peeled backwards, and took quite the whip. I pulled back on, found the hold I had missed, slapped some chalk on it and that was that. In some ways I lament the onsight that could have been, but I'm also happy knowing that I fully emptied the tank and had absolutely nothing left to give, I could barely pull up the rope afterwards. Pretty rad either way. I lowered down, Dave flashed it, the absolute madman!! and we decided to bail from the rain upwards rather than to the ground for the sun had come out to celebrate Dave's glorious sendage. I jumarred up on a micro traxion and we were going to finish up Air Malta's final pitch but Dave was on his typical Bungonia crushing rampage and as the sun now shone and the sending breeze picked up it seemed only fitting to continue our quest despite losing two hours of day light. Some mild faff ensued including me getting hit by a largish rock but being miraculously totally fine, and Dave getting lost on the #DawnWallDownClimb but we managed and I only had to climb one pitch in the dark. The pitches that followed after the crux I rate accordingly: Shit, unpleasant, pleasant, inoffensive, good. All up a four star day on two star routes.
|
|||||||
23 |
★ Screaming Tribesman P6
- with
Dave Cook
| 35m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A classic pitch. Doesn't get much more absurd for grade 23 trad! Part of the Iron Throne/Asteroids link up thing.
|
|||||||
22 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
- with
Dave Cook
| 130m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Some fairly severe slabbing to start the day, and I found the beginning of pitch 1 nails!! Fairly pleasant after that and linking pitch 3 and 4 was fun.
|
|||||||
Tue 8th Sep 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
- with
rickau
| 65m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Took a bit of air time when I tried to head straight up at the end of the second pitch instead of stepping left. I hit the slab below and so now have a sprained ankle. Awesome climbing.
|
|||||||
22 | ★★★ Iron Curtain - with Adrian Kladnig | 65m | |||||
Sustained and technical slab climbing! Unfortunately had to bail after the second pitch as Adrian did a number on his ankle.
|
|||||||
Sun 6th Sep 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Evolution - with clinton | 220m, 55 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome route - each pitch is classic
Stoked to lead the 24 pitch well
|
|||||||
Sun 30th Aug 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
23 | ★★★ The Other End of Evolution - with Dave Cook | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A worthy end to the day. Some very cool holds up high.
|
|||||||
24 |
★★★ Evolution
- with
Dave Cook
| 160m, 55 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a wondrous fall free day out in the sun as my introduction to Bungonia. We finished up The Other End of Evolution which was well good, and i’m so glad we swapped our leading pattern for that so I could have a rest because I don’t think I would’ve gotten through it had i climbed straight through from pitch 6! Drove down to Jindabyne with Dad afterwards and then went skiing the next morning. Primo.
|
|||||||
29 |
★★★ Luminous Blue
- with
lee cossey
| 290m, 99 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome day
Will never forget
18 degrees no hotter
Strong NW didn’t really effect
16 draws 5 extended
P3 favourite pitch
P6 was engaging 😂
12hrs car to car, taking it easy, no torches!!
|
|||||||
Sun 16th Aug 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Siblings Of The Sun - with Dave Cook | 260m, 61 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Such a classic - topped out this time, after dogging through the crux pitches. What a quest
|
|||||||
Mon 27th Jul 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
18 | ★★ Pulsar | 45m | |||||
22 | ★★★ Iron Curtain | 130m | |||||
Wed 22nd Jul 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
18 |
★★ Pulsar
- with
Mark Feeney
| 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had a small epic on this bad boy. The gear is mostly good except at the cruxes. Save a 0.3 for the upper part of the second pitch. Some committing moves
|
|||||||
Tue 21st Jul 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
- with
Mark Feeney
| 130m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One of the most sustained stab you will ever do. Not a boring on the whole climb!! Bring your smearing shoes. Linked last 2 pitched
|
|||||||
Mon 29th Jun 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
26 25 | ★★★ The Bridge to Total Freedom - with Dave Cook | 190m, 48 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Absolute mega classic, best day in the gorge I have had - so impressive belaying Dave on the onsight
|
|||||||
Fri 12th Jun 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Air Malta | 220m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Rapped down from the top to work in the last pitches starting from the 25. The 25 is quite an impressive pitch! Next time I'll try the full multipitch!
|
|||||||
Mon 8th Jun 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
- with
Bert B
1
25
2
3
4
30
5
20
6
60
| 110m, 18 | |||||
Rapped in for the top 3 pitches which was rather exilirating to say the least. On p4 lead attempt got to ride the tufa with not to much effort but higher up missed the undercling which unlocks the rest. P3 again only just dropped the ball when my foot slipped at the end of crux. P3 is just brilliant. Feel like both could go clean next time with effort and focus. 18 draws.
|
|||||||
Sun 7th Jun 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 220m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Classic birthday
|
|||||||
Sun 31st May 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
- with
Peter
1
23
30
lead by
Peter
2
21
20
3
22
60
4
25
30
5
23
20
6
22
60
| 220m, 18 | |||||
Sat 30th May 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Air Malta - with Roman | 240m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mon 25th May 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Air Malta - with Cameron Lindsay | 220m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tuff titties
21 draws
Top of pitch 3 sucks
Bit dirty down the bottom
Long draws
Easy to find
|
|||||||
Sat 21st Mar 2020 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Siblings Of The Sun | 260m, 61 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 16th Nov 2019 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Evolution (Evolution Linkup The Other End of Evolution)
- with
Pete, Alice
1
24
265m
2
3
4
5
6
7
linkup The Other End of Evolution
| 270m, 55 | |||||
The Other End of Evolution adds a pitch almost as good as the 24 pitch (and almost as hard?) a great way to do it!
|
|||||||
Mon 7th Oct 2019 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
29 |
★★★ Luminous Blue
- with
Peter
1
23
40
2
24
50
3
4
5
6
7
8
29
9
| 90m, 99 | |||||
Plan was to do first 4 pitches of air Malta but we were so excited to see shiny hangers up good rock we jumped on this by mistake.. It seemed a little off as there was no obvious mantle in p1 etc and it was bit longer but the grade seemed on point so didn't think to much of it. I led P2 thinking im up for a 20m 21 and got served a ±50 metre 24. Somehow managed to queak through for the onsight though.. Yeeew! First 2 pitches are both very good.. The rest remains something to aspire to..
|
|||||||
Sun 6th Oct 2019 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
21 |
★★ Red Heat
- with
Peter
1
20
45
2
21
45
3
21
25
4
20
50
5
6
7
| 170m, 1 | |||||
Decided to rapp down after pitch 4 as we didn't want to do the last pitch in dark. Also learnt that unfrequented long trad lines wondering on sometimes seemingly blank limestone walls can be very time consuming to navigate and be mentally challenging.. This route gave me a moment of pondering to myself about why the hell im out here.. But afterwards cherishing the moments and craving to do it all again. Led pitches 2 and 4 which were both great! Mostly found lots of good pro on my pitches and I sure made use of all of it. Sadly we probably didn't do the best part, The top 2 pitches, and are keen to return for that.
|
|||||||
Oct 2019 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
- with
Ben Schaeffer
1
23
30m
2
21
20m
3
22
60m
4
25
30m
5
23
20m
6
22
60m
| 220m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First time in the gorge. Got too excited to climb the crux pitch and hardly waited after the 60m pitch 3 . Results as expected.
|
|||||||
Sun 8th Sep 2019 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
24 A0 | ★★★ Evolution - with Daniel | 220m, 55 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Epic!! Well protected climbing on largely high quality limestone.
|
|||||||
25 24 | ★★★ Evolution | 220m, 55 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Very amazing. Led every pitch and was happy to onsight P6, but took some falls on some of the others getting used to climbing on limestone.
P3 felt a lot easier than the description would suggest. |
|||||||
Sun 1st Sep 2019 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
- with
Peter
1
21
125m
2
22
3
22
4
18
| 130m | |||||
Hands down one of my favourite multis ever. All pitches were just awesome! the 22 cruxes were also ok and felt little tamer than strangeness and charm P3 crux. The rap back down was great.. 2 x cruizy raps with double 60s. single rack cams 0.4-3., 1 set nuts and 10 alpine draws.
|
|||||||
Sun 28th Jul 2019 - Bungonia Gorge | |||||||
South Wall - Main | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Siblings Of The Sun - with Tom Collins | 260m, 61 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Came back for the crux pitch. Thought I'd be able to dispatch this in a day, but it was bloody hot, I was spent from Air Malta the day before, and it's just a very power-endurancy pitch. Good improvement throughout the day, and I came close to victory, but couldn't quite fight the pump. I think fresh, with the beta, this should go down with another day of effort. The final moves to the anchor are terrifying on link (when pumped out of your mind).
|
|||||||
26 | ★★★ Siblings Of The Sun - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 260m, 61 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
26 | ★★★ Siblings Of The Sun - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 260m, 61 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Crux pitch only - nice powerful face climbing on good rock with a fantastic position.
|
|||||||
26 | ★★★ Siblings Of The Sun - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 260m, 61 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
25 | ★★★ Air Malta - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 220m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Just to much fun! Pretty happy as I was in a pretty poor headspace and also climbing fairly poorly.
|
|||||||
27 | ★★★ Kia Kaha Direct - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 50m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
27 | ★★★ Kia Kaha Direct - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 50m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
With more traffic this would really clean up, great climbing and much steeper than it appears.
|