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Reflux Crag

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Description

Single-pitch sport climbs, close to the car-park. A few good routes and easier access than most, although a little tricky to find the first time.

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Access issues inherited from Bungonia Gorge

The park is occasionally closed for feral animal control. Check here: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/alert/state-alerts

Approach

Park at Bungonia Lookdown carpark. Walk towards the lookout and hop over the fence to the left just before you get to it. Follow the rim of the gorge for 50m to a spur or headland. (If you walk out on the headland you can look back to the lookout). From the headland head diagonally downhill and left (looking out) until you see a 15m high buttress. The buttress has a cave that goes all the way through and out the other side. The first three routes are left, right and through the cave. For 'top wall' routes, crawl through the cave and follow the contour right for around 50m.

For Reflux Crag proper, skirt under the buttress (past a 5m high sport project on a mini-arete) and follow the contour right from here.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route

The lower section of the main buttress that contains The Cave. From either end of the cave area, continue downhill for another 30 m. Take care when setting up for top rope on the project.

2 bolts up the slab and to the base of crack and then up the obvious crack, back right to lower offs.

A steep arete next to the approach track.

FA: nathanual hebbard, 4 Feb 2023

5m right of the arete project is another punchy little sport route.

Start at a sinuous crack immediately left of a vegetated corner, 5 or 10 meters right of Blue Rock Party. Once onto the slab, continue straight up. Final moves are diagonally up to the right, following the left hand side of an arete below the lower offs. Often done as an alternative to walking back up to the cave. Can be done as top rope using the lower offs located on the ledge looking down from the cave, but make sure that the rope runs on the left side of the substantial bushes near to the top.

Starts 10 meters right of Sloth On Up. Dance your way up the slab to lower offs. Often done as an alternative to walking back up to the cave. Can be done as top rope using the lower offs located on the ledge looking down from the cave.

The next 4 routes are on the faces immediately adjacent to and above the cave.

Left line on the slabby arete down and left of the cave, sharing the first two bolts with Unknown 1. Stick clip the 1st hanger and a bit run-out on the slab. Single carabiner lower off (second anchor bolt needs a hanger).

Righthand line up the pumpy arete, sharing the first two bolts with Finger Pockets. The grade is a bit of a guess. Single lower off and requires a careful down climb to clean due to dramatic swing possibility.

Juggy, left-trending line of holds, starting just right of the through-the-cliff cave on its eastern side (climber's left). Difficult start for the grade, even if the tree is 'on-route'... Great variety through the pitch and rewarding views. Good rings at the top. Can be top roped.

Ascends the western side (climbers right) of the walk-through cave, starting on its right.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

This area can be accessed from The Cave by following the buttress 50 meters up hill (climber's right). Alternatively, it can be directly accessed from the Lookdown carpark by walking over the ridge to waypoint (-34.79888, 150.0171), and heading around the southern end of Top Wall (down to the right as you are facing out). This option is far quicker if you want to start in this area.

Start on the face and right side of the arete, behind a large tree. Very high first bolt - stick clip recommended. Upper third is a bit odd... Nice climbing to be had direct up the bulge, but the third bolt is actually hidden down and right behind a small bush and the route finishes with a traverse across to the rings on Angry Ants.

Starts at twin cracks. Crux is high above the third bolt as you move up to the rings.

Mount a small ledge and move up and left to the first bolt. Follows the crack on the righthand side of the arete for the central third, then nice moves out to the right across the face and up to lower offs.

Start with big moves straight up arete. Starting up crack is only grade 15.

Juggy start, crux last move.

Description from ROCK Mag #18. Route has not been found yet and may just be lost in time. 2018 About 50m L of Cardinal View Lookout Up slab to small tree, then follow line of six BRs up steep wall.

FA: Garth Miller & Glen Macintosh, 1990

Continue west (climbers right) along the contour from Below the Cave.

FA: Simon Vaughan

FA: Mike Law Smith

Up arete, into the crack then back out and over bulge. Double ring loweroffs.

Revamped as a sporty on brackets

FA: Mike Law Smith

Start just below the S shaped gum tree. Be prepared for committing moves all the way to the top.

FA: Simon Vaughan

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Mon 15 May
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