This mountain is very popular. Stay on tracks, don't poo at crags.
The main cliff is situated on the southern side of Ngungun and is just below the summit.
The access to the bottom is now slightly easier since the walking trail has been upgraded. To get to the base of this impressive wall follow the path past where it turns left near the Cave. The turnoff is the relatively defined trail leading off at the first switchback after the cave - the cliff will also be visible from this point. Follow this trail to meet the cliff near the right end of the Upper Main Cliffs/left end of the Nursery Cliffs.
Another option is to descend from Ngungun's summit to the base of the main wall. This is via a 50m rap from the rap chains above Pocket Full Of Kryptonite (there are two intermediate rap stations if required). Note if rapping from the summit via the PFOK chains, there is a crack on the ledge just below the anchor with a crack which the knot tying the ropes together can be caught in when pulling the ropes, requiring some shaking of alternate strands of rope to free in order to be able to pull the rope.
Routes are listed from right to left.
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
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theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionAuthor(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9377779499658
Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9780958079068
A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.
Jake Forker on ★ Angie 13 - 100803920_736513490422041_6090863855997550592_n.jpg
Bruce McDougall on ★★ Ensorcelled 17 - Bruce Enjoying Every Minute of Ensorcelled
Patrick Simon on ★★★ Icehouse 15 - Pat after magic moonlight moves on Icehouse (15)
Jake Forker on ★★★ Icehouse 15 - 99295954_1565640570266694_3374840900101341184_n.jpg
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