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Waterfall Wall

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Description

This is directly under the main waterfall of Flaggy Creek. Problems are on the left of the waterfall feature. Bring brushes as rain will leave silt runoff over the wall and moss tends to build up over summer.

Access issues inherited from Glenrock Lagoon

Located in Glenrock State Conservation Area, an area of ongoing importance to the traditional custodians, the Awabakal. There are numerous heritage sites scattered throughout the region. The land manager is the NPWS. Climbing is not recognised in the current plan of management, but will be incorporated in the 2021 plan. Climbers should be mindful of flora, fauna and cultural heritage and should not disturb these.

Chalk use should be minimised, and tick marks removed. Use headphones if you need music at the crag. Lookout for crag care days to help with bush regeneration and track work.

Expect to see waterdragons, monitors and snakes. Warnings don’t need to be raised every time a reptile is seen. Leave vegetated caves in cliff faces alone. A number of rare birds inhabit these eg powerful owls.

Descent notes

Scramble down the right on a fixed line

Routes

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Grade Route

On the left side of the waterfall, sit start on big rail/edge, head straight up to finish with feet on starting holds

FA: John Hollott, 10 Aug 2021

From same start as CC, head across right to arete and move up and around to blunt arete slightly around the corner. Then from good holds head back left to CC finish

FA: John Hollott, 10 Aug 2021

Michelle eliminate problem.

Sit start for Michelle, but using crimp rail below obvious good rail, move right on small edges to gain small arete then some tricky moves led to good hold on blunt arete. Good rail is out for hands and feet

FA: JJ, 10 Aug 2021

Start as for One Crow on jugs and traverse left as for DND. Where Dontolleo goes up, keep going left towards arete. Burly move guards link to arete. Climb up arete a little to big jug. Down climb over left to get off

FA: Jon Ash

Start on 2 good holds and average feet, move up to big ear/sidepull. From here up and left to good rail and then final moves up to crimp rail and match. Drop off

FA: Michael Tonon, 2014

V5 or V6 take your pick, either way its great! Start on jugs for A Crow, traverse left to starting holds of Donotello. Now straight up and finish as for Donotello. Drop off.

JJ

FA: Michael Tonon, 2014

This is the standing start to Crow. It’s a one mover, but still a great problem!

Use slopey ramp with left hand and side pull with right hand, pull on and pop up to good edge. Then across to right jug for a matched finish.

FA: Michael Tonon, 2014

Sit start on the horizontal jug, big move up to slopey edge on left, then pop up to small edge and finish right on the jug ledge.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

FA: Michael Tonon, 2014

  • A technical boulder
  • Start sitting underneath start of Fight Milk, using left hand corner jug and right hand undercling edge just above the ground.
  • Traverse out right using any holds and feet to 2nd last Donotello crimp rail and Donotello finish crimp. Right side of Donotello start is out. Two hands match crimp to finish.

FA: Michael Richards, 4 Feb

Start on flat jug at the left of the wall. Reverse Butt Rodgers and continue up A Crow Left of the Murder. Rather than going right to the jug, keep moving straight up to finish on crimp rail.

FA: Ben Schaeffer, 2 Nov 2021

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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