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Description
Vertical sandstone wall climbing which is closer in feel to the Blue Mountains than a typical 'Grampians' crag. Expect crimpers, flakes and the occasional bolt.
This cliff is one of those secrets that is hidden by being in full view. Blatantly obvious from the walk up Flat Rock, it is the subject of one of the great misprints in climbing history. 'Surely' the original climb was meant to be called Cliche Crack but was misprinted as Clicke Crack! An alternative explanation is that the name was meant to be a play on clique. Given the number of typos in the Gledhill Guide (the most delicious of which was "Christ Dewhirst"), "Cliche Crack" is most likely.
© (nmonteith)Access issues inherited from Clicke Wall
Not permitted
This grey compact wall is on the 'To be Reviewed' list… although there's some confusion as Clicke area was a "Designated" area in the Draft plan; but isn't mentioned at all in the Final GGLMP.
Approach
Clicke Wall is the steep grey wall with a couple of black streaks and a big diagonal crack that dominates the skyline from the foot of the Flat Rock track. The easiest approach is to cut across Flat Rock and scramble up just left of 'The Short Orange Corner' and keep going across slabs towards the diagonal crack and corner that mark the right end of the wall. The last 50 metres of the approach can be quite scrubby if you hit the wrong spot. It's best to go up the slabs until above the diagonal and cut back down to the foot of it.
The diagonal crack is the eponymous 'Clicke Crack' and the corner just right of it is 'Piracy'. The other climbs can be found by heading left along a ledge system from the base of 'Clicke Crack', this is mostly just walking but becomes an exposed traverse beneath the arete of 'One Bed to the Left', so take care.
Descent involves scarily soloing down an "easy" face around right of 'Piracy' and then traversing around left to the foot of 'Piracy', or a 25 metre abseil down 'Slave Driver Saliva'. A new (Aug 09) rap anchor has been installed above 'Kurosawa', and serves the handful of routes on either side finishing at this ledge.
The climbs are in the sun from midday, are exposed to the dominant west wind, and are described from right to left.
© (nmonteith)Ethic inherited from Grampians
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780646955544
"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"
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Mon 29 May
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