Ascents of Stoplight Arete

Another nemesis boulder! So psyched! Thought this may not go for me because I can't span the method most people use and it always seemed very anti-style for me regardless. Turns out all I needed was to find different beta, get better, stronger, more mobile, try it in colder weather and spend more sessions on it than any other boulder I've done!!!

needed to be cold for the right sloper.

Nemesisss

Completely different beta, but it worked for me! Didn't use the 3 fingers hold from V6.

One I'd be keen to get on again. Felt close but just had nothing in the tank

Seems a little contrived trying to avoid the crimps around the arete, still a banger regardless

came close! worked it all out except the drop in move at the top

Ayyy! Fun one. Subtle positionings make it work

Should be an option for dry fire after dry fire.

took a bit of work and skin, last go best go

I climbed the arête front on and used the three finger sloper about a foot left of the high pinch. Not sure if that’s legit but it felt like the obvious sequence to me.

Somehow this actually went ok except to the bit where I fell

Real happy with this one. A joy to work out each move and even more joyous to link them.

Unlocked the step up today. Just the drop in move to go. Feeling pretty close.

Somewhat optimistic for working this in the cooler months. Felt pretty good despite warm weather and gassed body.

Such a good problem to work on your technique rather than strength. https://youtu.be/UtwMnOMNOhM

Trying to nail the balanced position before moving up fast the first pinch sloper. An interesting challeng this one.

I don't know if I can call today's session progress. I can 'feel' that I seem to be able to go to the higher sloper as I'm feeling more balanced with some new foot beta... Not sure

Highpoint today. Can't seem to move feet after getting second left hand sloper though. Might have to try something else next time, or just see if cooler temps make a difference. Was boiling hot today!

Lovely moves. Will continue working this one for sure!

Had a good play on this lovely arete today. Seems like there is some confusion as to whether or not you can use holds left of the arete that aren't the underclings or have to stay right mainly using the big moon feature like Oliver did. Also the start is an "American sitstart" (= crouch start) and doesn't start on the very lowest edges.

Thought I was trying the V6, didn't feel impossible which is very surprising.

Next time

Suprised myself, put all moves together until what I think is the last one, quite quickly. Needed a spotter to go for it. Too many broken ankles in the gramps this weekend : (

Because why not try skipping ahead 7 grades. Seemed like a nice climb, did few of easiest moves in it, but a very long way from doable