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Tangerine Slide

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 19

Seasonality

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Description

This crag features a 50 metre high overhanging orange wall as well as some sparsely protected slab climbing.

The 'Lower Tier' is the main event here, and consists of the main the overhanging and vertical walls.

The 'Upper Tier' is reached by scrambling up a series of ramps to a terrace above the 'Lower Tier'.

© (kieranl)

Access issues

The Mountain Lion is currently closed, meaning a change of access. See approach notes.

© (kieranl)

Approach

Current access has changed due to The Mountain Lion having a temporary closure.

New access: Park at the base of the gated Vic Range Fire Tack. Walk up this trail for approximetely 10 minutes/500m, and look for a rock cairn in washed out grader scree slope, head into bush here. Follow the cairns down the rocky/sandy slabs, past large boulder to the creek, you should be directly across from the 'Lion's Head' feature of the Moutain Lion. Negotiate a scree slope, staying on the left side, looking for occasional cairns and cleared scrub. Walk below small cliffs and overhangs, following very vague cairned trail until the cliff appears, which should put you at the right end of the Lower Tier. Expect this to take 40 minutes until the track gets worn in.

Old Access: Two hundred metres north of "The Mountain Lion". From the left end of the base of The 'Mountain Lion' continue sidling across the hill-side for 200 metres. The 'Lower Tier' is slightly downhill and consists of the overhanging wall. The Upper Tier is reached by scrambling up a series of ramps to a terrace above the 'Lower Tier'. These ramps are the best descent route from the 'Lower Tier'. Descent from the Upper Tier is from the right-hand end. (south side). GR 082625

© (kieranl)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Nirvana Wall: On the far left side of Tangarine slide is an alcove with grey rock (possible potential routes). Directly above this is a short, compact grey wall of impeccable stone. The next 4 routes are here.

Left Arete with steep first moves.

FA: Goshen Watts, 25 Apr

Up middle of slab - straight off the block. Good pro appears when it's needed.

FA: Goshen Watts, 25 Apr

Flakes up the middle right with a tricky start and finish.

FA: Goshen Watts, 25 Apr

Direct up the thin line on the RHS, reachy fingerlocking jugs.

FA: Goshen Watts, 24 Apr

Starts on the left end of main orange wall near a large block on the face, 20m L of 'BTGPITN'. Technical move past a BR and a much better hold. Power up the wall and left to finish. Potentially an incredible sandbag or holds have fallen off (unlikely), as it seems at least 6 to 7 grades harder with poor protection before and after the bolt.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

On the left of Tangarine Slide, about 15m L of 'Boys That Grow Plump...' is a L slanting hand-crack. 1) 20m 23 Classic and technical jamming. When the main difficulties are over, step up R to grey wall with a final tricky move to the belay. 2) 15m 19. Step R off the 'large block', and climb up to flakes. Follow left trending cracks to ledge and abseil anchor*. 33m to ground. Note that there is currently only one anchor bolt, this will be soon fixed, or walk off is an alternative.

FA: Goshen Watts, 26 Apr

Powerful climbing with a truly evil start, up thin flake to overlap. Looks good, bolts may need replacing. The second pitch could be an anti-climax though.

Start: Start on wall left of prominent orange off-width corner at left end of crag.

  1. 25m (27) Thin flake crack into shallow corner (4 FHs) and a grey scoop (BR) and one more FH. Step left and go up short wall to ledge.

  2. 25m (17) The wall above, veering left.

FA: Glen Tempest, 1993

Shares same start as Cellophane Heroes, but after intial crack continue straight up the thin crack past 2 RB to a DBB.

FFA: Goshen Watts, 12 Apr

Start: Start as for "Cellophane Heroes"

  1. 15m (-) Up to sloping ledge.

  2. 20m (19) Left to sweeping arete. a few difficult moves, and the way is obvious.

FA: Peter Campbell & Edwin Young (alt), 1993

Shared start with 'Biblical Psychopaths'. Up large crack system to sloping ledge; a belay is possible here. Continue up the line in the small wall above to ledge, then up the chimney and easily up the slab and broken wall above.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1991

Climb 'Cellophane Heroes' until you can step R and clip the 3rd bolt of the Closed Project. Then up the outrageous arete, you won't get lost!

FA: Jimmy, 26 May

Bolted face to arete

The wide corner-crack just right of "Cellophane Heroes" to ledge. Climb chimney of Cellophane Heroes to finish. Descent by scrambling down ramp systems under Upper Tier.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

Start as for "Scud Tour Of Bagdad" but continue following the Sickle Line up to FH. Step right near top. Descent by scrambling down ramp system or continue up to the Upper Tier.

FA: Glen Tempest & Edwin Young, 1993

Start 3 metres right of the obvious corner-line ("Just Like The Wolgan"). Traverse rightwards from sickle crack to another thin crack, then up easy territory to ledge and DRB belay.

FA: Campbell Mercer, 1991

5 metres left of City of Joy. Start off block, tricky moves left from undercut to a mantle and up thin layaway crack. 3 bolts and trad to DRB anchor.

FA: Jimmy, 26 May

Bouldery start off block. A long reach is required to slot a bomber wire in the horizontal break (next to mystery bolt hole). Stretch across L, then go straight up crack and the shallow corner of Scud Tour of Bagdad.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1993

The following climbs are the Upper Tier and are reached by scrambling up a series of ramps to a terrace above the 'Lower Tier'. Descent from the Upper Tier is from the right-hand end (South side). Protection is sparse or non-existent on some of these easy slab routes. Climbs described from right-to-left.

Climb the central crack on the juggy wall.

Start: Starts at the slabby buttress at the right hand end of the upper tier. The route Air Raid is almost certainly a repeat of this climb.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter Watling., 1991

Probably a repeat of Hussite... yet a grade easier? This route starts from the base of the cliff, directly below Hussite. 1) 14m Straight up to the terrace. 2) 25m Straight up Hussite’s crack.

Slab 3 metres left of "Hussite", 2 metres right of left arete.

FA: Julie Nitschke, Campbell Mercer & Peter Watling, 2000

Diagonally up right over the first overlap to left-leaning overlap. Surmount and follow the crack running diagonally left and up.

Start: Start left of "Bohemian" at the left wall of the buttress below a fault in the initial overlap.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke & Peter Watling, 1991

Up and right to a thin crack and up to a ledge. Up a short crack and left to a long crack which is followed to the top.

Start: Start on the main slab 3 metres left of the "Five O'Clock Shadow" wall.

FA: Peter Watling, Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1991

Straight up initial the slab, moving right across "Minties" just past the ledge to finish up the middle of the upper slab.

Start: Start as for "Minties"

FA: Rob Pease & Monica Gallus, 1991

Up to ledge with large tree. Step right to right wall. Up obvious large left-leaning diagonal crack for 2 metres then vertically up the wall above to finish between the large blocks.

Start: Start as for "Minties".

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke & Mark Nitschke, 1992

Good climbing up the most pronounced crack-line on the wall. Start 1 metre left of Minties Up the line, near the top stay mainly in the left of two cracks, switching back to the right to finish (loose blocks).

FA: Peter Watling & Gordon Talbett, 1991

No protection.

Start: Start 4 metres left of "Mastermind".

Up the water-stained slab, over the thought-provoking bulge.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1991

Up the diagonal crack for 8 metres, step left to follow another diagonal crack to the top.

Start: Start 3 metres left of "Liars, Damned Liars and Politicians".

FA: Julie Nitschke & Campbell Mercer, 1991

Very poor protection.

Start: Start at the flake 2 metree left of "Beachcomber".

Very poor protection. Start at the flake 2 metree left of Beachcomber. Up the flake then directly up the wall to finish about 1 metre to the left of Beachcomber.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1992

Up the flake then diagonally left to the small ledge with a very small bush. Straight up.

Start: Start 2 metres left of "Peanut Butter Ramble".

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke & Mark Nitschke, 1992

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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