Routes in Central Tablelands for selected grade

Sit Start matched on the undercling. Go straight up and mantle.

Same start as “Catholics Against Galileo”. Slightly harder too, but doesn’t warrant an extra grade. Head out right and mantle out. Avoid the arete.

Start matched on lower ledge, hop up to the top and compose yourself for a daunting mantle/whale out. Access to boulder requires some hopscotching across the river on boulders then head up stream for 150m to find this epic boulder directly opposite the jump rock.

Jaime Williams (FA)

As for hopscotch, right hand exit variant Jaime Williams (FA)

Tight moves to the top. Sit start on two side pull crimps, slap out to the slopey bucket and up.

As for “wing out” to first big move then staying low on the lip to top out as for “wing pop”

Sit / crouch start, left on shallow horizontal break and right on small triangle pinch. Bust out right and straight up. Jaime Williams (FA)

Sart as for Oreo but take the lower line of holds to small edges and drop into the start of Iced Vovo finish as per Iced Vovo. Bottom shelf obviously off

Alec Landstra

Sit start with double updercling one move wonder to lip

Up the finger crack only using the crack for hand holds, one for the thin fingers. Shame it is contrived. It's an awesome crack

Alec Landstra

Start 2 feet on slab at the back and keep feet on the sides as you go around. get as far as you can. 1.5 times around is the current record

A nearly sit start on hidden sidepull crimp. Stick to that arete going up with big move after big move until a tricky mantle top out

Comfy holds. Sit start.

Hard moves right of first bolt, clipping jug for second bolt at left of fingery traverse, then ok slopers over top. Best to pull up and clean/know whats going on up top. As for first half, its nails. Best to belay from track beneath belay bracket.

Long undercling traverse.

Start as for Photocoagulator before finishing up Gingivectomy via crimps and slopers

Emmanuel Madayag

Start as for the doctor, instead of doing the big move on the nurse, continue low for a couple more compression moves until you're at the slopey jug of Go Go Gadget then finish up Oxycel

Phillip Booth

Same start as Necrosis then hard move into The Nurse to finish at the jug rail.

Phillip Booth

Direct movement. Sit start as for Doctor. Gain ledge, then crimp, 2 finger pocket, move to slopey rail directly above, then up left to diagonal positive rail. Match high big hole for top.

Long and funky, if a tad contrived. Start as for Go Go Gadget, but crank out right through some fun slopers, staying just below the finish hold of The Nurse. Keep traversing right along the break, before eventually finishing up Rocky Davis.

Dyno.

Sweet high sloper traverse, good but spaced holds the whole way. Start on a L finger jug and right crimp, up and work your way out left along the roof rib. Can you campus is off for your feet. Finish matched on the high pocket. Easier to campus most of the moves.

Starting on say ahh and then traverse into mosquito clamps and out via the ledge.

Start at scoop and traverse right to big jug.

Start on big jug and traverse left to scoop.

Start on the left side of the crack and traverse until the crack opens out. Very tricky mantle

Start on the rail and dyno your way to the jug. Lack of feet makes it challenging

Sit start at left of cave, move along the low line to the far right, finishes out of the mini cave. Many varients open for other 'scends. The first line sent in Saturns Forge, 22 May 2010, zjparer.

Starts as for Liken Lichen, traverses through low roof, mantles onto shelf and up onto the hollow roof. Perfect pockets litter this awesome roof, with an excellent top out! No feet on the lower rail stick to the roof until after the batman boot; then the two high feet on the wall at the end are legit. Many alternate endings to this roof!

Start at the jug in the roof where the solid rock starts. Move through scoops via toe hooks and kneebars to the finish of Monkey Magic.

Obvious line of weakness. Pop up to crimpy rail then pull on to slab using slopers. Open project since hold breakage.

Significantly harder than its righthand neighbour.

As for Gaze a Gazely Stare to the #3 Cam slot above its 3rd bolt, then take the lefthand line.

Gaze, then: Bolt, Bolt, Bolt, #0.3, Bolt, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.3, #1, #0.3, #.75, Bolt, #1.

Entry level at the grade -but very involved, despite the objectively soft grading.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1 x #0.3, #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #4; 3 x #3; 4 x #1; and at least 7 Long Runners.

1. 45m (26) - Gear in Order: Bolt + LR, #0.3 + #2 + XLR, Bolt + LR, #1, #3 (Optional), Bolt, #3, #0.5 (Optional), Bolt, Bolt, Bolt, #4 (Optional), #1 + LR, Bolt + LR, Bolt + LR, Bolt + XLR, #1 (Optional), #0.4, #0.75/#1 (Optional), #3, Bolt, to 2 Bolt anchor.

2. 10m (20) - 1 Bolt, to #0.4 and Bolt anchor.

Did You Know: Moons can have their own moons, and they're called MoonMoons !!!

Bring a full double rack 0.3 to 4, and a full rack of wires. For P2, some offset small cams, and offset wires can be crucial (see pitch gear beta below).

1. 25m (19) Belay from 2 x #4. An awesome right-leaning crack, marred only by some patches of average rock. Bring your full double rack on this one, and place gear wherever you see it.

2. 35m (26 R) Gritstone comes to the Blueys. Very very sustained, and also somewhat bold. Links features where the crack peters out, resulting in some giant runouts (both sideways, and upwards). Pitch specific gear: Piton + 0.5 (Belay), 0.75, 0.3, 1 + 2, 2 x 0.3, 0.2, 0.75, 2 + 1 + Black Wire (medium), 0.4 + G/Y offset alien, Optional offset wires, Piton, 0.75 + 0.4 + 3.5/4, Piton, Bolted Anchor.

A long, sustained pitch of varied face climbing on inspiring rock. So many pockets! Bring 20 quickdraws, at least 3 of which should be long runners.

Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined into a MEGA 65m pitch (rope management crucial! 29 quickdraws required, 5 of them should be long runners).

P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the L path where the bolt lines split (Sojourn goes R) into long rising traverse across intermittent horizontal flakes and pockets, then up to big horizontal. Step left and up past a hard move, then back right and more directly up past sustained thin climbing. At 19th bolt, step R and belay in the cave (as for Sojourn). 20 bolts.

P2 - 25m (22) - Step back L from belay, and up to 2nd bolt. Hard move past this to big horizontal, clip 1 more bolt, then truck left to rejoin Subliminal P2. Finish up this to belay. 9 Bolts.

P3 - 15m (14) - Subliminal pitch 3.

A mega 40m pitch of sustained steep face climbing on stunning rock. Bring 18 draws, 2 of them long runners. Might be hard at the grade!

P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the R path where the bolt lines split (Sabbatical goes L) into hard moves past glued flake to break and rest, then more hard moves, slightly right, then more directly left past steep right-facing flake. One more thin crux, then steeply up trending left to belay in cave.

P2 - 25m (22) - Sabbatical pitch 2.

P3 - 15m (14) - Subliminal pitch 3.

The site of a bloody showdown of conflicting ethics, wherein fact and fiction have become conflated throughout history to produce an epic tale of Tolkienesque proportions. Finally put to a rest by a third party almost a decade after the conflict began.

Start at fused right-facing seam/corner/crack/roof thing. Bold-ish face climbing, with a couple of gymnastic cruxes. Be careful, as a fall or blown gear at a few points might lead to a trip to hospital. Bring a rack 0.3 to #2 (consider micros, depending on your definition of acceptable risk) and maybe a tin of spinach (or a joint).

Extension-Project (Trad) Macca: Continue up from the big block straight up the steepening with limited small to medium large gear options turn the lip and up 5m to belay on ledge. Good gear is available here but bolts might be placed to allow lowering or continue to top...

"...to admit a kangaroo unreservedly to be a man would inevitably involve one in a number of distressing implications, the kangaroolity of women and your wife beside you being one example." -The Good Fairy (At Swim Two Birds)

Shares the first 5 bolts with "Is it About a Bicycle?" before breaking right. Gain the huge roof flake, then jug along with glee to the final, wild boulder problem to turn the roof. Single bolt anchor ABOVE the lip of the roof. Back jump to clean.

Links the start of Kizashi into the finish of Sadomastication at about the 8th bolt. Very sustained steep wall climbing with a punchy reachy finish. Watch your rope length for the lower-off.

Another direct multipitch straight up the middle of the wall. The first pitch is one of the best harder routes at Sublime Point, featuring sustained thin crimping. Starts at FH on left edge of little overlap at ground level. Has been led as one giant 70m pitch from the ground!

1. 27m (26) Very sustained face climbing. The red and black face with shallow pockets and flakes. Considered hard for 26.

2. 20m (22) This pitch is best done by moving the belay 10m left to Microdermabrasia, or doing a runout climb up to join the pitch at the third bolt. Out right, up a bit then back left to belay on comfy ledge. Contrived in the middle.

3. 25m (23) Right most route off the high ledge. A bit of a pumper with big exposure! Fantastic big move to finish.

Start 2m left of Microdermabrasia. Up face for a several metres, then left to big flake feature then back right and up to join Microdermabrasia about halfway up the wall. Finish as for that route.

Turns Stelvio into a more moderate super-sustained route by avoiding the top crux. Makes a good warmup for the true Stelvio.

Climb Stelvio to its 3rd last bolt, then truck right and finish up the top crux of Gavia. Stay off Exile P2's holds for the true finish.

Start up the line of bolts just above the access rope to gain the upper ledge at the left hand side of Bentrovato Wall at the first belay bolt. Clip the starting bolt from higher up on the ledge further to the left. Climb the corner-feature and the black shield of rock using the arete as necessary during the crux section. Try and stay off Electra/out of the Gully as much as possible.

A wild pitch of face climbing, starting from the major ledge halfway down the wall right of Echo Crack. Rather complicated to get to.

Mostly bolted, but sparsely so. Bring cams 0.3 to 0.75 for the traverse exit to P2.

1. 40m (26) Traverse right from the belay, then very hard moves to get started, followed by sustained face climbing with some wild runouts. 2 Bolt belay.

2. 10m (18) As for Alive in a Bitter Sea, traverse left past carrots and some trad gear to belay at the top of Echo Crack.

18M6 or free at 26 R.

Start: Main corner/crack system on left side wall. Good rock and climbing down low, becoming more serious and difficult towards the top.

Birdbeaks/Peckers may be advisable as increasingly the original fixed pitons are breaking…

Frothy Thomson working Titan

The all free version of Gigantor. Listed separately to the aid version, as aiding Gigantor is still quite popular.

Atmospheric and extremely engaging! A true sustained cliff-splitter.

As a free route, it has a bit of everything - Jamming, armbars, pinkys, pockets and the occasional edge. Some loose rock and the occasional runout. Belays are all ok -provided you equalise everything and make use of any natural pro you can find.

Don't even think of rebolting this one!!

Traverse right at the bolt ladder near the top, and follow the line of least resistance.

Watch this Video with Zac Vertrees about the route.

Low traverse of the wall. Starting on the rail below the chipped 2finger pocket of the v4. Move right to the same finish as jomfh, big hole in the corner past the arete.Originally I thought v7 but my mates recon v6. Crux is keeping your arse off the floor. This one is bound to pull some traffic (just joking).

Techy, punchy, strenuous, and sustained from the 4th bolt onwards. Independent start between Uncouth Youth and You Crazy Diamond. Tough start, then cruisy past 3 bolts trending up and right into start of "groove". Up past 2 bolts to crux, then sustained hard climbing past 3 more bolts, culminating in airy climbing trending left after last bolt to anchors.

Start as for 'You Crazy Diamond' but between the 4th and 5th bolt follow the line of ringbolts heading left. Finishes at manky two FH & biner rap anchor (not the ringbolt anchor of Family Jewels further left)

Start as for Diamond Jack. At the 5th bolt move right then straight up. Warning: beware of the rope length.

As per Jewel Thief to 4th bolt then straight up. Maybe 25, once you work out all the tricks.

Short, steep and good. In addition to power you will need loads of body tension to thug your way up this little baby. The first half is one of the better warmups for Mr Wall.

Unfortunately a hold has come off so the original sequence needs to be modified. The original grade is still valid. You just need to start the climb with your hands the right way around, having done that you should be able to unravel yourself along the traverse and set yourself up for the crux.

One of the classic test piece 26's in the mountains that keeps you working from start to finish.

Start as for Super Weak to the horizontal break then thin moves to decent rest, big moves on big holds to finish. A touch easier than the original but you still have to do its crux traverse.

The continuation of Mr Weak. Trend right 2 bolts before the end of Mr Weak Via a couple of extra bolts punch the roof and finish at the obvious horn feature at the top of the cliff. Shares the anchor of Mister Glücklich.

Often overlooked, but a fun climb in a nice position, with some interesting bouldery moves to a sting in the tail. Don't be put off by the obvious broken holds, it still goes. The anchor is now abysmal, for anyone looking for some rebolting. It’s also possible to start up Dogbite at the same grade to avoid clogging up the start of Hairline.

If Super Weak is too busy/sunny/windy, head around the corner to this less travelled sport adventure. A bouldery start leads to some interesting easier climbing and time for quiet reflection. Start as for Some Kind of Bliss and go left at the 2nd or 3rd bolt.

Mega pitch!! Starts at the second fixed rope on red choss ledge.

Thin and sustained crimping!! Make sure you marvel at the DIY stone work at half height

Half of Chocolate trouble cake direct, Step left into the trouble cake crux then on to the rabbit with fangs slab.

Great link-up of the 25 and the 27.

The long one, starts off the big rock Cain.

Slabby ramp then up beautiful orange wall with a hard traverse left to first set of lower-offs at large flake.

Last route of the crag. Hard boulder problem start and then long interesting wall on mostly great rock. Watch your rope length.

Bouldery start for sure, make sure your fingers are warmed up for the opening pockets. The climbing easies off after the third bolt but the redpoint crux is still up there.

Just right of 'BBQ Boys' up ironstone rib feature. Wanders around a bit and has some tricky slopers in the middle. Great sustained climbing.

The double overhung arete at the L end of the wall. 5m L of Akimbo.

Same start as P&P then straight up. Three short boulders. Hard to grade.

The ceiling on far left of ledge. A puzzling start leads to steep moves. Best belayed from platform beneath with a long sling on belay bolt for visibility and comfort. Stickclip first draw in roof. The climb does not require a cairn to start and to do so would be a hazard to your belayer and anyone on rungs beneath. The route length refers to how much rope required to lower as you will land back down on main ledge. Back Cleaning is essential.

Uber classic steep pumper. Think 'Way of All Flesh' but longer, steeper and likely a touch harder. Start towards right side of main ledge below bolt on slab and corner feature above. Best to belay off first rung on ledge.

Great route that tackles both the orange, vertical wall and the steep roof above. Anchors provided below the roof for a cool 24 or all the way for an excellent 26. Starts in the crack feature left of Cruisin' for a Bruisin'.

Left of The Enforcer, ascend small pinnacle to start. Climb wall into trad-y corner. Good shake at permadraw then drop the clutch through the crux face climbing.

An epic adventure up all sorts of vertical terrain. Starts 50m around left from Waylander proper. Arete to start then technical wall and hidden slab - then traverse right and up slabby arete and then face, bulge and corner to finish. Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Watch your rope length - 70m rope will just get you down if your belayer stands on the starting cairn!

Striking orange face/arete visible from The Pit abseil. Scramble up corner to belay on large terrace. The left line.

One of the finest single pitch face routes at the grade in The Mountains. Stellar. 26/27 - grade still to be confirmed.

1m left of Cooper's Extra Stout, up featured orange wall.

A series of wicked reaches that require unconventional climbing. Pumpier than it looks.

Climbs like a granite classic. Great little trad-y corner with a pumpy and techy finale. Be sure to stick clip the first bolt to protect the choss guarding the start.

Bold sports climbing at its finest, if that's your thing. Batman start, suck your gonads up and steel thy self for a memorable journey, including some very long runouts in the top half.

A long batman start leads to primo thrutching up the blunt prow.

Mega pumper that connects the start of Fists Of Fury (to the fifth or sixth bolt) into Chao Wa Punch Kick. Take all your draws and you may need to borrow some to make up the 18 that are required.

It is not uncommon to hear whimpering from high up on this super classic. Start as per Treadstone but head straight up the seam and onto the arete above. Continue up the face onto the white streaked, water washed stone, where the bolts cease and the fun factor goes redline.

Start on the right side of the bowl and climb up and into the corner above. A trady feeling pitch.

Start as per Person of interest sans bolts. After entering the corner head right past a bolt and up the arete to rejoin Person of interest at its last remaining bolt.

The first route as you arrive.. If you like steep and thuggy then this is your number. Be careful on the first couple of bolts as the ground isn't far away.

Doesnt get as much attention as 'Headshot' but just as good. Perhaps a little more thuggy?

A tricky sequence at the start leads to a good rest then mostly good grips for great sustained fun.

The first sport route done at the crag. The corner and arete 3 meters right of Mac Daddy. Up slab, hard move off pocket then jugs to glory.

Short but punchy number, the holds look good from down low but aren't.

First ascent details unknown.

An easy and enjoyable wall leads to a reachy thin move just before the roof. A long and pumpy jug traverse left on ironstone bricks top this pumper.

First ascent details unknown.

Up groove then slab / face

As per 'The traverse' continue climbing left last 3mtrs on crimps and bad feet

Climb as per 'The traverse' right to left ending at arete flat jug then reverse the whole thing without coming off

Start matched on rail under roof. Use the cool undercling pinch thing.

Start matched on a corner block just left of the blunt arete and move up through some compression crimps.

Start in scoop on the blunt arete. Use the undercling to do some tings.

Start on good holds, through undercling and big move to edges. Powerful.