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Central Coast

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Description

The area between the Hawkesbury River and Lake Macquarie.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

History

History timeline chart

Local climbers, especially the Wondabyne Climbing Club (active mid-70s to mid-80s), comprehensively explored the area's roped climbing potential by the early 1980s, but sadly not a lot of information survives from this period. What is known is that they did a lot of exploration by boat, so most of the cliffs visible from the water would have been explored by this group.

This group climbed quite a lot with Joe Friend, who is reported to have lived a semi-hermit-like existence on Long Island near Brooklyn for several months during this period. One story involves a very hungover ascent up the tall eastern cliff on Lion Island, which, given the apparent rock quality there, was probably a pretty terrifying outing. Another story involves Phil Stallard of the WCC aid climbing the major crack system at Eagle Rock on the Hawksbury, with his leg in a cast (they'd planned on attempting to free the route, but Phil broke his leg in the weeks prior so they went and aided it instead).

In the mid-90s the Monks brothers explored much of the 'Bouddi National Park' areas, and top-roped and bouldered throughout the park (in particular the Lobster Beach areas and 'Bullima'). At around this time, Paul Riviere and friends were developing Joll's Bridge, and over the subsequent decade development inched north and east.

Development in Bouddi National Park (especially at the Lobster Beach Cave) has been quite contentious with NPWS and local residents, especially as the park has also been illegally developed by mountain bikers during this same period. A new plan of management was drafted in 2019 which seeks to ban climbing from the entirety of the park.

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Berrys Head boulder field
30
95
3m
13
10
15
3m
9
23
103
4m
22
32
148
3m
12
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
107
1,451
6m
53
Koolewong crag
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
125
843
6m
31
32
130
3m
18
44
292
3m
4
Woy Woy crag
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
282
2,823
7m
34
148
1,556
17m
21
Closed Hawkesbury Bridge Cliff Unavailable
Blackwall crag
 Sport climbing,  Bouldering and other styles
89
743
10m
9
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
272
2,052
9m
100
Umina crag
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
213
1,119
9m
35
Hominy crag
16
213
11m
6
Jilliby area
7
6
6m
5

Unlocated crags

This region has 2 unlocated crags! If you think you know where Warrah Trig or Joe Pike's 40 Acres are located then please take a minute to locate them for the climbing community.

Locating crags gives you Karma points. Please contact us if you have any issues.

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Mon 29 May
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