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Lowtai cave

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 5
  • Ascents: 123
  • Aka: Low Tide Cave
19

Seasonality

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Summary

Idyllic location on bullet hard black rock on the beach with soft sandy landings, potential for futuristic bolted climbs.

Description

The Lowtai cave is best climbed at low tide. Currently only boulder problems are established with huge potential for extremely hard bolted routes. However it may be in a sensitive area, frequented by the general public so activity should be limited. This was apparently a nudist area.

Access issues

Best climbed at low tide. This is a popular area for the public.

Approach

From the carpark just south of Middle Head Trail, head to the beach and walk south towards the rock outcrops, past the first small cave.

History

History timeline chart

Not sure. Adjacent land is owned by a friends, but this area may be part of National Parks. Not sure if anyone has climbed here before, if so please edit and update.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Start R on rail move L through crimps, undercling and then back down through block slopers and crack before moving back up to finish on the juggy rail of BU

FA: Ben Vincent, 30 Jun 2017

Sit start and up crimps.

Note - The sand level does move occasionally obscuring the sit start foot holds.

FA: Steve Karma, 23 Oct 2016

Sit start on two low holds, up to block.

Note - The sand level does move occasionally obscuring the sit start foot holds.

FA: Steve Karma, 23 Oct 2016

Sit start at two jugs, and straight up crimps into undercling, and mantel over.

Note - The sand level does move occasionally obscuring the sit start foot holds.

FA: Steve Karma, 23 Oct 2016

Sit start as Left Shrinkage and head left and up mantle directly over.

Note - The sand level does move occasionally obscuring the sit start foot holds.

FA: Joanne Low, 23 Oct 2016

Warm up problem here.

FA: Joanne Low, 23 Oct 2016

Up pockets to crimp then to the top. Please don't mantel this problem, to preserve the vegetation above.

FA: Steve Karma, 23 Oct 2016

Start 1m R of DLAJF. Move up through obvious jugs before pushing out to the final, shallow-dish of a hold

FA: Ben Vincent, 14 Feb 2016

Layback line to a big reach. Jump from top, watch the vegetation. Please don't mantel this problem, to preserve the vegetation above.

FA: Joanne Low, 20 Nov 2016

Crimpy start finishing off with a large move to a good jug.

FA: TaraT, 20 Nov 2016

Sit start. Up through obvious blocks into small jugs before stepping/mantling R onto large block.

FA: Ben Vincent, 16 Feb 2017

An extension of TCN. From the top of the block stand high and move up through small sharp pockets. Match finish in obvious horizontal break. A rascal of a climb with dizzying heights.....

FA: Ben Vincent, 16 Feb 2017

Up big flakes to large jug. Easy but fun.

FA: Steve Karma, 20 Nov 2016

Start as for Meat Hook but veer left after the meat hook flake to finish at jug.

FA: Joanne Low, 20 Nov 2016

Same start as P.P. Low ball, traversing R through features at about 1m height above the sand. Once at the obvious corner traverse R at about 2m above sand. same finish as P.P.

FA: Ben Vincent, 14 Feb 2017

Same corner block match-start as Sandgroper. From here at the caves edge traverse R over sharp, juggy holds of M.H and R.B and through blocky jugs to corner. Continue R along wall to obvious rest halfway through route. Continue R through until Pandanus. Use face holds the whole way (i.e. the top of the wall is out).

FA: Ben Vincent, 7 Dec 2016

Stand start match on the obvious corner block above ledge. Move up through block and into obvious corner crack. Follow to top where it is dissected by a diagonally left sloping seam. Move through obvious pocket/block at the bottom L-hand end of this seam and continue out left to sharp jug. Move up and R to finish in obvious pocket. Scope for extension.

FA: Ben Vincent, 8 Dec 2016

Still a project ...

Starting from the ledge beneath S.G. traverse L and low past the start of S.F. and into an obvious deep crackline. Finishes at constriction.

FA: Ben Vincent, 10 May 2017

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Sun 28 May
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