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Cape Byron Light house Cliff All Trad climbing 6 routes in crag

  • Grade context: AU
6
AU
1013

Summary

Cape Byron Lighthouse Cliffs. Sea level cliffs below the lighthouse.

Description

First 3 Climbs are based around the first solid grey gully with a 25m head wall at the back. Solid rock and gear low down , but gets more unstable higher up. 70m further on is " The Day sap ". A solid grey 15m face with good natural features .

Access issues

2 to 3 hours either side of high tide

Approach

Park at Tallow beach carpark, walk north along the beach. And scramble around to the cliffs

Where to stay

Byron

Ethic

Trad. Warning the cliff is shale. some holds are just sitting on the face. Care is needed placing gear. Belayers should never stand directly below climbers. Helmets are essential.

History

History timeline chart

Explored and opened by Eric Milton 2023

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 Brace Your Self Trad 25m

First solid grey gully from end of beach. Start at the back of the gully on good rock. Bridge up gully then trend left on loose but easy rock at the top. ( I avoided the tempting arette due to poor rock) Belay & ab off tree.

FA: Eric Milton & Rob Bracher, 18 Mar 2023

2
14 Violet Crumble Trad 16m

Start 6m right of B.Y.S. Pull up left into the flake crack system. Follow it up then trend right to sub pinnacle. Avoiding loose rock ( pull down not out ) . Decent by sea saw abseil, or down climb Die For Gear.

FA: Eric Milton & Rob Bracher, 18 Mar 2023

3
10 Die For Gear Trad 15m

15m on from B.Y.S Gully . Scramble up the corner then back and foot to the top. Finishes at top of Violet crumble. Down climb or ab.

FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023

4
12 Facial Trad 15m

The next 3 climbs are about 70m further on in " The Day Spa ". A compact black cliff with good natural features. Facial climbs the right leaning flake / crack system . Starting at the right end of a large boulder. Finishing in the corner of Massage.

FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023

5
10 Massage Trad 15m

Climb the good left leaning corner up the middle of the face. 6m left of Facial.

FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023

6
12 Day Spa Trad 15m

Start in the corner as Massage. Climb rightwards over the slab to a bulge with good undercling pockets. continue up and over to glory.

FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023

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