Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

Great, long warm up. Climb through the crux in a corner at just above half height then easy climbing to anchor with fixed biners. Can be done with a 60m rope.

Start on the right of the alcove and follow 3 hangers to steep wall (crux). 4 more hangers lead to chain belay.

4m right of "Don't Trust the Bunny". Up past the bunny holes to 1st FH. Straight up crimping your way past a further 6 FHs to chains.

Sustained thin moves between 1st & 4th hangers give way to easier ground. Lay off the huge bollard to 5th hanger. Easy to chains. Solid 17.

2m L of the flake. Up on good holds (4 FHs) to lumpy arête. Nice exposure past 3 FHs to DBB. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ

The crux provides some interesting crimping up an arete.

The line of 5 FHs behind the pine tree. Finish at DBB.

Scramble up short wall as for NASATV to large ledge. At RH end of ledge there is a FH at chest height. Belay from here. Up face to 2 large holes passing a FH (wasps have been removed). Continue up wall passing 3 FHs to chain belay shared with LV.

Head up L side of hanging block to flake up L side of block to bolt belay. (BR's & SLCD's)

Start: Several metres L of a broken corner with a large stump and a fallen tree, about 20m R of stump hole.

The obvious upwards continuation from Slip\'s anchors.

Start: Continue up and slightly left from Slip\\'s Anchors through break.

1. 25m (16) Up through break in roof, follow hangers across slab to anchors just short of headwall.

2. 25m (18) Follow line of weakness through headwall with some balancy moves, continue up slab to anchor.

Traverses left following the upwards trending overlap. Mind some loose blocks in the middle.

Start: Start at the anchors at the top of Slip.

Another romp up slab past the L side of a small nose to CB at the top of Slip.

Start: Start at line of hangers a few metres right of Slip

Up R side of small nose past numerous FHs to CB at top of 'Slapp'. Has an interesting bulge at half height.

Quite testing. 3m R of 'Slapp'. Up slab passing two BR's to large SLCD placement and BR. Up steep section passing a FH (crux) to overlap, and on to CB.

(BR's, FH's & SLCD's)

Solid at the grade, but excellent. Up slab clipping FH's to obvious triangular tooth. Once up steepness and at the overlap, head L to lower-off at top of Gearbox Gastro. FH's and cams.

More good value. About 5m R of Slither. Up slab to a tricky step R and FH. Sweet pockets will see you through the crux steepness. Continue up corner to lower-off.

1. 30m (13) As for Easement.

2. 20m? (17?) Move R from the belay and instead of trending back L toward the steep wall as per the 22, follow the line of FH's R into the corner, then out R and on R-wards.

Quite varied. This climb starts 3m L of the top of the small ridge about 20m R of Easement. Climb up slab heading L to a vegetated corner and FH. Up slab through branches of squiggly gum to blunt arête. Up arête to ledge. Off ledge and up to CB past small wire placements.

First route up dirty wall past a few BR's.

Up slab past SLCD slot and across to the R (long BR). Make your way back L under roof past nose (big SLCD) and up to the big hole (BR). From here zig-zag through break in wall past two BR's. Once on slab, follow breaks to chain belay. (BR's, #2.5 & ~#4 SLCDs & medium wires)

Up almost horizontal flake to natural gear in corner. Up slab to BR. Traverse L to corner crack, an #11 hex can be fiddled into hole. Thence to the R and up crack to CB.

Start at the black brain rock under a bulgy, juggy overhang. Pull through and march up the slab. At the 8th FH, you’ll see PTY branch off to the left (don't). Head straight up with some more thoughtful climbing on good rock. Two more bolts to anchors. Don’t extend the anchor. 10 FH’s.

Crazy Moon 240m 18

1. 40m 13 Hard start moves lead to easy angled slab. Straight up through spear lilly ledge to next slab.

2. 40m 18 Up slight groove in slab 15m right of right facing vegetated corner. Knifeblade at 5m, then trend right through hard unprotected moves to more gear in narrow vertical crack. Continue straight up before traversing left to base of left facing corner and fig belay.

3. 10m 15 Left facing corner capped by vegetated crack. Block belay.

4. 55m 18 Traverse right to hanging block (fixed piton) then up run out slab to horizontal overlap. Trend left to belay at left land side of 2m high roof.

5. 45m 17 Step left and up left facing corner then out left onto slab. Up through spear lilly ledge to next slab.

6. 50m 17 Left to arete on right side of ephemeral waterfall. Up clean rock until possible to step right onto right leaning slab. Trend right past loose blocks to ledge and spear lilly belay. At this point the good climbing ends and best option would be to rap to eastern side of watercourse and descend via gully. If summit fever calls, the following 2 pitches get you to the top. A cleaner option would be to head left across the watercourse, through a spear lilly ledge to nice looking slabs. It looked possible to thread a line through some scattered spear lillys to the top.

7. 60m V2 (V is a proposed vegetation grade) Trend right through steep spear lilly horror show to belay beneath next rock.

8. 30m 12 Over unprotected rock buttress to vegetated niche then trend right on slab to ridge. At this point you are on the ridge that forms the eastern end of the Wollumbin Shield. A narrow ridge with bits of scrub and rock lead for about 250m to the ridgetop. Follow upper ridge to descent gully to west.

First climb as you arrive - all other climbs are to the left of this one.

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last climb on lower wall

hidden in the corner

5m right of TB. Up corner to small roof. To TB chain

Start 2m right EF straight up over small roof.

start on wall under roof on the corner. Up wall over corner of roof.

start 2m right of corner climb. straight up middel of face on sharp holds that draw blood. crux at start.

Some nice crimps, traverse from single FH at top left to lower off 'NL' Top out often dirty!

Up through small roof (try not to wimp out left to mantle) From single FH at top traverse right to lower off "SIS" Top out often dirty!

Long interesting traverse with tricky crux midway, often cleaned by seconding, or climb in reverse. Good warm up for steeper routes in cave.

Starts on small ledge, lay away left edge of cave to travel right through large window cave/ tube to lower off on other side of hole.

Up 'H.I.O' then traverse right under roof (not through hole) to join 'B' then up outside to shared lower off of all three climbs.

Up orange rock from small ledge on outside of cave to finish at shared anchor on edge of hole.

6m R of updl. Start above small cave, up to vertical crack, then another smaller cave, over this to ledge. Tree anchor.climb

Up Wall on Trad Gear

Unknown entity. left line of hangers to chains

The arete 5/6m right of 'Adder'. Start around on the right face. Use brass offset or RP past first BR. A little contrived but generally follow arete and BR's. Beware Chossy rock. 5 BR's plus 2 natural. DB Belay.

The left side of the arete.

The right side of the arete.

Start as for HOC or there is an optional direct start. Up wall to mantle ledge and anchor under roof.

Up featured wall 5m left of andy goodvibes

Obvious Corner Crack. Up into the juggy corner, around the roof and up a nice hand crack to a tree.

3 bolts, finish as per CRTB

Start at yellow paw print on wall at knee height. 1m right of PGADITHP, 2 bolts to rings.

1m right of TM. Natural gear (cams) in breaks, 1 fixed hanger, finish at rings above TM

In the middle of the wall, great climb for beginners, up the wall past nicely spaced bolts to a lower off in the groove down right of the tree.

20 metres around the corner from R. Natural gear, 2 large cams are useful. Offwidth start leads to small grassy ledge. Over bulge then traverse right and up gully. Top out for tree belay.

Start 5 meters right of HOTD up finger crack in corner topped by what appears to be a loose block (actually solidly wedged) then traverse left and join HOTD. Avoids offwidth start.

Start as for FSA then veer right and up thin slab to anchors on ledge

All Trad up crack and left at top to anchor for TST

Straight up middle of white wall. Fun moves on great stone.

Possibly the worst, documented route in the Coffs Area. An adventure route that is the antithesis of the neighboring sport climbs. About 30 m past the White Wall, before you get to the main Deliverance Area.

1. 15m. Delicately up the orange, chossy, corner crack to the base of the chimney.

2. 15m. Struggle and stem your way up the flairing off-width/chimney on reasonable rock until you reach the overhanging soil. Detour left around the arete onto poorly protected slopers and bushes before crawling across a ledge back into the main crack system.

3. 5m. Enjoy a surprisingly nice stemming crack to the summit.

Up slab and around right side of tree and steeper rock to anchors on ledge. Good varied climbing with a bit of loose rock up high.

Funky climbing up the big chimney on the left of the crag.

Some meters east of OSS. Start as per Camo Corner. At first ledge traverse left under tree and around corner where a few more moves will take you to the main arete. Step left around the corner onto the next face to clip two rings before making a mantle finish. Rap rings are a metre to the right. Belay your buddy from here and rap off if you like your rope.

Mixed route of zigzagging cracks with anchors

left wall on the face. Tricky start

Climb Rat Attack and step left under roof

Climb Chimney as for Rat attack then traverse right on underclings to gain crack and flake. Up past a couple of bolts to anchors on the right of the tree.

Start as per TBBB but at ring bolt go straight up and right to another ring then straight up to gain crack and then to chains

Approx 10m left of The Battle of Evermore. Up blocky broken corner crack to chains at 20m. Then up wide crack to a tricky finish to chains at Lost World Wall. All natural.

Start as for Antichrist but exit small roof at 5m on the right side. Up obvious corner and crack to Lost Boys Hideout. Natural pro, belay at chains.

Start at crack 4m right of Antichrist. Up crack to ledge then left up to BR then up onto second ledge and traverse right 5m to top of boulder. Step up onto wall and up to roof then up crux to ledge. Traverse right and up over roof to wall above, aid off last BR to top out at Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. BR, cams, nuts. Watch the rope drag.

Start up crack 1m right of Captain America to ledge and climb up following the large flake right and back left to the ledge above reach up and clip the BR before hauling up over the roof on big jugs to DBB in Dead Man's Cave. Bring natural pro 1 BR.

Finger crack 8m right of The Shadow. Up crack then veer right to another crack then up wall to chains. BRs, cams & nuts

Just right of DECEIVING DECISIONS. Up short wall, thin moves to top, 3 carrot bolts.

The short wall in an alcove, 1m right of COSMIC ENERGY. This moves up the short wall. 2 carrots and 1 bolt plus tree belay.

The obvious roof just right of the approach trail. 4 BR's and a small cam down low. 2 BR's are next to each other at the start of the hard bit. Belay back on trees. Was originally graded 22 (in the days when climbing roofs was a new thing).

Perfect on a hot sunny day. Up the wall just right of (and perpendicular to) ROOM WITH A VIEW. 3 bolts. Beautiful!

One of the first routes done here. A wide corner rack, bridge and jam.

The black wall right of STEAMER.

A steep jam crack, better than it looks.

Great little short wall, out of the sun. Good small holds, pumpy. 2 bolts and a cam.

1.5 metres left of 'Chicken Heros'. Up easy slab to bolt with fixed hanger. An interesting sequence leads past this then pad on up to double bolt belay. (No bolts between first and anchor).

A juggy looking wall with poor pro up high. A large cam about half height, a 1/2 inch Hero loop over the chicken head and a small wire for pro.

A couple of metres right of STEAMY WINDOWS. A little contrived but an excellent route if you keep over to the left. Steep and juggy to start, leading to a flake and easy finish. 1 bolt plus small trad gear to tree belay.

The face 3m right of the 'Shower Recess'. Up to horizontal break (cam) then up steep wall past one or two bolts to a double bolt belay.

2m right of WALT DISNEY'S PICKING STRAWBERRIES. A crack then wall. Small cams and 2 bolts. Be gentle on the footholds up high. Quite nice.

Right of SUMMER. A crack in a steep wall next to the big Blackbutt tree. Natural pro. Strenuous start, scary in the middle and a tricky finish. A lot of fun.

An excellent climb, named after the friendly Glenreagh Pub. The Pub burnt down during winter 1991 but was rebuilt. The classic Golden Dog statue was added in 2011. A good long route. The left leaning, diagonal crack to the cave then up the wider crack to top. Tree belay.

The wall/arete right of THE RAW. It'll keep you guessing. 1 bolt plus trad gear.

The first bolted route in the Coffs area! Start at the arete next to SANDMAN. Clip the first two bolts then move onto the face, 2 more bolts and a steep little wall to finish. Bolts can be supplemented with gear if required. Belay from a tree about 10m back from the cliff.

The next arete right of SAND CASTLES. All natural pro, take a full rack of small sizes. An intense arete that becomes an easier wall. 2 bolt belay. This one for the purist.

2m right of TT. 1BR, Medium wires, Natural belay.

3 BR's and NP

3 BR's & NP at start

1m right of corner. Face climb. 1BR and small wire. Bring medium cams for belay.

Start as for ‘Parting Gesture’. Traverse right to arete then up pastdubious gear to DBB. Excellent top rope route