Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

5m right of Abandonment Issues. Follow left leaning line of 5 FH’s past flake and pockets. Shared belay with Abandonment Issues.

14m L of notch. Generic, but clean slab climbing past 3 black FHs to the base of bulge, which sports the final 2 FHs. This overhung section hosts a vital two-finger pocket and makes for quite a stunning conclusion. Finish at rap station at small stance. Watch out for ants in the pockets.

1m R of flake. Up through pockets (optional gear) to slab and the first of 5 black FHs. Onto steep section with big holds (FH). Mount wall and pockety moves to reachy FH. Run it out a little to the security of a massive bucket below the 4th FH. Over bulge to last FH and a tricky mantle to hit the chains. Quite run out, could do with extra bolts to make it safe?

A pleasant mixed route following the line of least resistance.

Start: From large stump hole move up slab about 5m to dish and a single BR belay (If using a 50m rope, use a sling to clip into bolt as leader will need all the rope to get to first CB).

1. 50m (19) From dish head towards orange overhang and a step to the R on to slab heading for short, prominent corner past two BR\'s to CB.

2. 45m (18) Head up corner following BR's to top CB.

Start: Directly up from broken stump.

1. 25m (19) Up R side of overhang to tree root and then up past three BR's to CB. A fall on the crux could serve you up on the slab - take care.

2. 45m (19) Continue up through two headwalls passing 15 hangers along the way. Remeber your long draws and/or use two ropes.

Ross Ernst, Colin Carstens 18/10/2008

One of the most popular routes at urbenville, fine balancy slabbing up rock which has had every edge polished off by the sweaty palms and squirming feet of those who went before.

Three pitches of pleasant climbing with an interesting crux.

Start: Start by traversing up and right from the anchors of Slip or by heading straight up from the anchor of Slope/Sonoluminescence

1. 20m (15) Follow bolts through corner/weakness (one bolt plate required) approximately 1.5 metres up and 5 metres right of Slip\'s anchor, up slab and corner for a short distance to anchor with huge mild-steel chain hardware.

2. 25m (19) Up shallow corner to obvious steep corner (many FH's). Overcome this and the tricky arête crux move onto slab to reach CB at small tree.

3. 15m (17) Clip FH from ledge and climb the slab above past numerous FH's to tree belay.

Start at the left arête of the above mentioned slab. Head up to the large flake past two BR's. The third BR is out on the L on top of the flake, a medium cam is required out to the R. Follow the line of least resistance past seven BR's to chain belay.

A direct start for Image is All. Start up slab about eight metres R of original start. Head up past two BR's then trend L to undercling and up to ledge.

Another direct start just R of I'll be Bach. This time up slab past three BR's to hole and BR.

2m R. Just R of the overhung barrel. This route wanders up the slab, trending R before picking through a steeper section searching for good holds. About 9 FH’s to anchors. Very chossy.

Careful on loose but easy corner for 10m. Then interesting moves with hidden holds on good rock. 9 FHs to shared anchor with Pyroclastic. Good, but a bit runout and ledgy, take care.

Access to the start of this climb is via the approach slabs for Escension then aid and climb the first pitch of Escension. first pitch of Escension is now A1. 17.

1. 30m (18) Phil Box (rope solo) At first pitch rap anchor of escension step right behind bushes and into a fist size crack. Up easily behind the spear lilly to be confronted with the first steep slab of the new route. Clip piton and traverse right along a good ledge to the weakness on right hand end of ledge. Directly up the weakness and onto low angle slab. Up slab to steep wall. Look for water runnels for protection up high. Follow these to corner and double bolt belay.

2. 35m (19) Phil Box, Brad Carmady, Josh Combes. From belay, traverse right for aprox. 3 metres and up obvious weakness. Step onto low angle slab and then step back left to directly over belay. Up Arete with poor gear to protect crux to gain a very good piece of protection. From here go directly up until one is in line with an obvious large ledge and spear lilly. Traverse about 6 metres right past the spear lilly to Fixe Ring Chain Belay on the wall at this ledge.

3. 30m (17) Brad Carmady Josh Combes, Phil Box. Traverse 4 metres right, then up and awkwardly step right onto slab. Up slab towards roof then traverse left under overlap to natural belay in obvious crack in right facing corner.

4. 40m (16) Brad Carmady, Phil Box. Step up overlap then traverse left along spear lily ledge before heading up slabs left of large hanging block. Up wide layback then up to steep overlap before going slightly right on slabs to large spear lily ledge. Tree belay on right hand side. This could be a great bivy ledge if benightment a possibility.

5. 30m (16) Phil Box, Brad Carmady. Straight up from tree belay using the large crack formed by a tremendous gendarme. At top of gendarme trend right across steep slab (orange Alien size pro protects these moves) to corner and crack system. Trend back left on crack system, up behind spikey bush and into short chimney and on up the obvious crack system. Belay before obvious crack peters out.

6. 50m (16)Brad Carmady, Phil Box. Step right and up through groove. Back left following line of weakness through slabs to under large blocks. Head straight up on stepped slabs to just under line of spear lillys. Either traverse left and up or straight through overhangs to poor spear lilly belay.

7. (3) Phil Box, Brad Carmady. 40 metres of spear lilly swimming to gain walk down ridge. Walk down to the right keeping the top of cliffline visible more or less. Encounter the obvious saddle and turn right to walk down obvious descent gully back to camp.

Starting from platform to right of falls. From large flat edge, climb the arete using good crimps to an easy top out.

Sit start on jugs and continue straight up and top out. Careful of breaking rock

Start as far right as possible and traverse left untill you hit the start of Dumb Decisions

dagerous climb. poorly protected. a bit run out between most bolts. Lots loose rock and busting holds. Almost no protection from 100m,(bolts stop with no warning at 100m,halfway up 3rd pitch. anchor of to right hard to find) climb obviously un-finished.Possible micro-cam placement about 10m-15m after bolts stop. Lots of loose rock, dirty. Had to anchor on to bolders, ran out of rope (50m). loose bolt plates on second pitch. Holds break most of the way up. 4 pitch climb. 1st-40m, 2nd-35m, 3rd-50m, 4th-25m. Only decent path through thick bush, down south side...

like climbing a 12m fridge, fun

Up the right corner, with fun bridging off a finger sized crack. Deadpoint the jug and top out toward the left.

Start: While facing 'Bunny Nuggets', turn around and walk into the gully to the left. The right most corner before the short slab.

Sit start at the base of obvious crack.

10m right of TB. up wall to roof, then onto slab wall to finish. top out.

start 2m R of ITM up small wall over roof. Sharp edges cut through my 11mm rope when top roping...

Sit start the left arête of the overhanging boulder. Left hand on corner of the arete and right in a pocket lower down, may need to squat if small. Burly moves for the grade through a series of pockets, crimps staying on the right face using the arête to the top of the boulder.

From shield follow twin hourglass cracks to large rails in centre of steep face, up to find pockets ontop.

Thrutchy wide corner crack.

Standing start, smear and slap.

On same boulder as A15. Squat start on horizontal crack. Toe hook to mantle top out.

Sit start. From crimpy horizontal ledge on overhang to crimpy flake above. Mantle to top out. Adjacent boulder is out.

Middle of face

Blunt arete.

Avoid small block on right at feet, bad landing.

Balancie.. moving right wards up the face

Avoiding the cracks on both side and moving straight up from the jug into the thin side pull and to the horizontal break at the top of the wall. Fun

On the left face

Will need a good spot!

Highball. Layaway large suspect looking hanging block to jugs and a reach to top, then victory pocket.

Start on sharp block in corner, up left face with some bridging for feet.

Small arete, some loose rock in corner at top.

From crack up jugs, straight up.

Layaway

Jam

Sit start on the left of the face, on the crimpy bubbly ledge. Make your way to the right and top out

Up past ear shaped pocket to join 'MB"

Starts on small ledge, lay away left edge of cave to travel right through large window cave/ tube to lower off on other side of hole.

Up 'H.I.O' then traverse right under roof (not through hole) to join 'B' then up outside to shared lower off of all three climbs.

Up orange rock from small ledge on outside of cave to finish at shared anchor on edge of hole.

left trending steep wall past 4 RB's

Up SF for 1 bolt then step right and up face.

Up orange wall and white streak.

Up left yellow wall.

5m right of Moon Shadow. Follow crack to top. Finish to the right of tree. Crux at top. Most of the climb is 16-18 but the top move is a little scary and is about 19. Natural Pro and belay.

Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear.

4m right of 'Hilti Hijackers', and around the corner on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall, finish at anchors for MDS. 2 BRs

Climbs Black Arete on left of wall. Fun pockets at start then edges up high. Direct start from ground or traverse in from ledge

Start under block. Optional first bolt clip or skip it. Up orange face to anchors under roof.

One of the longest routes at Knox. Same start and first bolt as CT. Stick clip. Strenuously through the roof and then a rising traverse through a series of cool flakes. Probably only about 17 after the tricky start.

Start on the arête at the start of the big ledge/cave, 15m R of AG. Stick clip. Traverse left along the rails and then straight up the featured face.

1m right of PGP. 2 bolts and a fixed hanger, finish as per TM.

The first good piece of rock on the cliff line and possibly the closest sandstone route to Coffs?? Climb arête past 2 bolts. Most people think this route is harder than 19 but Artie refuses to give such a short route a harder grade. Let's call it 'stout'.

A juggy roof that is way easier than it looks from the ground. 3 bolt slab with pockets to ledge, take a breather and then campus into the roof on massive jugs and up through more steep terrain to a lower off below small tree.

wall just left of offwidth

Start as for MG head right over bulge to anchors under roof (anchor not yet installed)

Hard start off ledge then up past scoop and steepening finish. Shares Anchors with FF.

Climb 4 to 5m through slightly reachy and mildly overhung section until small arete is reached . Move up this for a few metres and then move into corner , use corner and wall until crack is reached then up crack to lower off chains

Climbs the Slabby flake on left side of the wall. fun moves and rock

Straight up the obvious white streak

Start as for Criminal but traverse right to ledge then wander up face and arete to anchors

Start as for Sinisterhood then left and up middle of the face

The fantastic looking crack system seen overhead to the right during approach to the crag, starting in gully off to the right. Scramble down from main crag or alternate approach from main access trail by heading right along base cliff before the fixed roped section.

Mantle daintily onto first ledge, place first good gear at back of rooflette then pull bouldery move up and into main crack system. Great protection the whole way.

Hard to get to start as a little obscure and a short climb involved , but climb up at left end of this area and gingerly make your way to centre of wall . Traverse left and up for 6m past 1 ring bolt then up for 3m to another ring then up and right using big overlap.Finish at chains.

Start approx 8m left of Sublimation. 1st pitch 30m – 20. Start in open book corner. Stay on left side of crack. Thru slightly overhung section trending left to chains. All natural. 2nd pitch 20m – 20. Straight up past 2 BR & cams to chains. 3rd pitch 20m – 17. Straight up past 4 BR & cams to chains.

Start 1m right of Astro Boy. Up wall to slabby section then climb over large boulder & thru juggy roof to chains. A few small to med cams & BRs. Marc Bailey, Bruce Jones

The obvious left hand corner crack at the start of Dead mans cave. Climb crack past 3 BR's to anchors on ledge.

Continuation of Hydra. At top of Hydra traverse left past bolts at Sky's the Limit then veer right thru weakness then back left to hanging chain belay at Sky's The Limit. A little contrived. BR & natural.

2m right of Hydra. Stay roughly 2 to 3 m right of corner all the way, when at cave level traverse 3m right to chains at Captain America .8 BRs & cams

Start 7m right of Hydra. Up wall past 2 BRs then up over bulge 2 BRs (stay on left side of these bolts) veering slightly left onto ledge reach up and place a good small cam before moving straight up the wall to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.

As for Tinker Bell but half way up flake move left and straight up past one BR to then rejoin the top of original climb.

Start as for Tinker Bell (this is left of actual climb but this way you avoid a big loose block) climb easily to ledge move right, clip bolt & then straight up to Dead Man's Cave. DBB. Natural pro & BR.

On a small buttress about 50m left of the main crag. Onto the wall and up through the right side of the roof. 2 bolts and a tree belay.

Start on the block below the right leaning crack. Up crack then wall with small iron hand holds, wires low down then 3 BR's to the top.

A blunt arete arete, 2 carrots and 2 carrot bolt belay.

In the same alcove as FANTASY AND FICTION, 2m right. Don't use the block on the right hand side, you cheat! 1 bolt and a large cam.

"Ready Steve, alright fellas, lets go......". The narrow wall 1m right of SILVER AND GOLD. Large Friend and 1 bolt. A little contrived, don't bridge off the right hand wall. Techno and streno. (Sorry Ralph!)

A classic. The wall right of CABLE LAYER. Another Ramones inspired route. Large cam in cave and 2 bolts.

Up trad crack and tend right to carrot bolt on arete.

The wall right of GIBLETS. Up steepening wall. 3 bolts and trad belay. Superb.

Not so easy if you're not light! Between FLAT BATTERIES and the "Shower Recess" (I think!). A steep wall with a thin crack near the top. 4 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. Just great!