Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

6m L of Yellow Brick Road beneath a hard, smooth wall. 2 Bolt runners in the first third (hard to see). Then four FHs to a chain belay.

Up to scoop and BR. Onwards past another three BR's to chain belay.

5m R of the warty tree. Up to first BR at the patch of white lichen. Traverse R and up to second BR. Up to FH and crux. Clip fourth BR and you're there. Chain belay.

4m R. Cool, punchy moves past chain permadraw and a steep finish. 6 FH’s to anchor. Hard!

8m R. 6 FH’s to anchor. Reachy, bouldery climbing on steep, bomber rock to finish on big ledge. An interesting mix of slabby and steep sections

4m R. 8 FH’s to anchor. High first bolt above the big crater feature, then enjoyable varied climbing on good rock with a steep and tricky finish. Low in the grade.

Climb Extra Shot. Then bust R along the rail passing one FH to anchor of Glenn’s project. Back-jump.

A large traversing line. First three bolts as for Flexion (long draw on second), then layback the monster flake to stance. Clip FH on R, then edge R-wards across the blank slab for about 8m to the point the line skyrockets up through the roof (super). The route keeps going up the headwall for about 10m on superb stone. Take some long slings. A 60m rope is more than sufficient as it’s a traverse.

2m R. Jug hauling on severely overhanging territory - should be popular. 5 bolts to low anchor just after the big break. Take care with the third clip.

Scuttle up ramp or mantle ledge past bolt to start. Straight up on good rock and some tricky to read moves. Cuts left then back right to finish at same anchors.

Two-headed monster with one head of lion, and other of a goat, lion claws in front and goat legs behind, and a long snake tail. Easiest route on the wall so far. White slab start, then up a near-vertical orange wall to major R-facing corner. Climb the wall right of the corner, place one metre sling, then stem out left and through the roof above to ledge. An easy romp for 10m, then she’s steep, all the way to the anchors.

Keep going! Directly up from cave to pull through a bulge onto a ledge. Clip long perma-sling, then up into the base of the stunning corner with perfect rock. Stem to glory. 16 FH’s to anchors.

Halfway anchors to aid in lowering off route with shorter ropes (60m rope is absolute minimum, 70m recommended). some valuable climbing in the lower half of the route but the top is where da party's at.

Closed.

Caution to be taken for the first two bolts. Recommend stick clipping the first (& potentially second). Tricky getting established on the wall, trend right after clipping the second, up the ledges & jugs. some cool moves & some gentle choss pulling as you move higher up the wall to mid-way anchors. Pass anchor to the overhung & airy top section with typical Crossroads mantles on good rock. Crux before the final slab, and glory-romp to anchors (double rings in roof). Intimidating!

The frost giant. As the ground starts to rise there is a flat belay platform. Route goes up the easy black corner above this, and then past a major L-facing corner (awesome) and through a series of bulgy roofs. The top roof move is blind - good luck! Take at least three long slings to reduce drag. Probably 25, lol.

Climbs the white-rock section to very high anchors on smooth slab.

Stickclip bouldery start then balancy climbing which will pump your left arm. FH’s.

The ‘bolt before the pub closes’ route. Stickclip for the boulder problem start, like all routes on this wall. Scoopy black awesomeness. Sensational! FH’s.

5m R. Climb on to pointy boulder to start and clip first bolt, then up past the jutty-outty block feature (surprisingly technical). Cool climbing on great rock with a no-holds-barred wrestle crux through the bulge. 12 bolts to lower-off.

Up the initial deep V-gully to start from pointy pillar against the cliff. FH’s lead of R-trending corner. A delicate move left, then back R and up tricky headwall.

The splitter crack - all trad, starting at the huge, deep pockets just off the ground. Bouldery start. Cool roof to negotiate at ⅔ height. Some friable rock above here, but opportunity to get lots of gear in. Bolted rap station. Take wires and a double rack of cams to #4 BD size.

Read warning below. This route does have bolts with SS carrots but they are quite well spaced apart at about 5 metres so pucker factor is a major issue. Top pitches are very sparsely bolted with 20 metre run outs. As this climb is rarely done algal growth can obscure the bolts. full trad rack is also necessary. There is a 110 metre traverse on the lip of a huge roof. Ability to re ascend a rope is a must in this area for self rescue if fallen off route you'll be dangling 100 metres above the apron. Possibility of a bivy ledge one pitch above traverse ledge. Two people can squeeze on to this tight ledge. There is a descent option from the top of this climb however finding the start to the rap route is problematic. Good luck finding it. Best option is to find start at bottom. Start is around 2/3rds across left from descent gully.

Abseil descent has had it's anchors replaced as of early July 2020. All anchors are SS.

Warning.

Recent ascent by Duncan Steel. He describes the top several pitches as having deteriorated badly since he did it 15 years ago. We discussed why and we came to a consensus that the black lichen and the north facing cliff bakes in the summer sun and the skin of the rock exfoliates in the very high summer sun. This route really needs renovation and a retro bolt. Duncan warms that this climb is no trivial matter and death or very serious injury could result from anyone just turning up and having a go.

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Same low start on the crimp rail, move out right then up fridge to top. Right ledges low are out for feet. Watch your back or be keelhauled along the boulder

Crouch start with yellow-corner-underlings and foot in the big feature. Move up using underclings and crimps. Use holds to the left of the crack.

Sit start with very low left undercling jug, and right on a crimp near your face. Sidle up and right. Top out the tall section.

Stand start on sidepull crimps in the middle of the face. Span left to arete, then up face avoiding using right arete.

tricky, balancy

Very cool kinda dyno, kinda sideways deadpoint. Start on two rails facing outwards in the middle of the boulder. Find a key foot and swing out to the left and up to a pocket. I could catch this out stretch but any smaller wingspan may need to properly dyno. From the pocket climb to the top and top out the boulder.

Sit start may also be possible at a higher grade. Also may be possible statically.

Layaway dirty crack to ferny break, out to slopers on rail arete, then side pull mantel.

Sit start on broken jug, up holds on arete. Bad rock for feet, walking up slightly right side until standing on broken jug. Then straight up arete.

Nice steep little arete.

Off width, start on jug on right block, up left block with some bridging and foot jamming to top out on left block.

Hug up block to pocket and tricky mantel on top, avoid blocks either side!

Awkward, reachy and bad landing! Up blocky steps on steep face to jugs on lip, then reach of faith to large pocket way back.

Follow pockets all the way to last pocket around arete then up. Wish it was longer.

Steep, juggy and pumpy along the lip of cave to join 'M.M' and finish at lower off above headwall. DO NOT lower off single chain of 'M.M' unless you clip last perma draw from sit down pocket! Kinda chossy and sandy, but still worth a brush and send if you like steep climbs, hopefully it cleans up a little with some traffic.

Belay near small fig tree at right hand end of cave. Follow U bolts out past pocket breaks with bad feet to a few stiff moves then jugs to chain.

Up Crack and wall on trad gear.

Start just left of Crack. Needs Independent finish. sharp!

1m right of 'Adder'. Up face to tree. 3BRs plus SLCD's. Tree Belay.

From ledge in middle of wall, if you're short step onto cairn, then jugs and trend left through jugs and rail to lower of 5th hanger

Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off.

Line right of NR. Up wall to lower off

The small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with small pockets

Up the wall with 3 bolts to shared lower off with JLR.

heads straight up orange wall

Shares a few holds with MM. Run out up high, safest to exit to anchors at MM, beware the tree.

Old abandoned project. Start 5m right of LBB. Up through steep roof past 2 RB and 2 FH to anchor over mantle.

first bolt of TVLJ then step left and up to anchors

Powerful & pumpy, well worth doing. Climb the arete, 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

Start as for elders have wisdom then up left to anchors for WMV

Up orange wall tending right to anchors on JW

Up wall just right of the Malloy.

Start 5m right of TM, off ledge and up past the crack on NP to bulge and past 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

Starts under obvious overhung Scoop at top of wall. Anchor and final bolt replaced July 2011

Two FH's protect moves through the pockets to join original route.

The middle of the Alcove, monkey up on big holds until suddenly… there's nothing… much. Don't cheat by traversing right. 5 bolts.

Simply great. Campus start if you’re short. Power up past 7 bolts to chain and possible small cam in horizontal break near the top.

The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner on natural gear, clip bolt before huge move. Head left to anchors.

Start as for first 4 bolts on Bourbon Street but then continue right to the arete past 2 ring bolts and back left to anchor.

Starts at end of ledge 50m past bourbon street. Climb tree to gain over hanging belay ledge. Up flake then out left to gain arête and up airily to anchors on ledge.

Climbs up wall traversing left to top out passing 5 Carrots. No Anchor

Climb arête past 3 rb and some finesse

First route on right side of cave. Up wall and straight out through roof to anchors up headwall.

2m left of DotU. Boulders start then up steep wall to clip anchors on lip of roof

A Tasty treat on a summers day. straight up the guts of the wall through overlap and steep finish.

A bouldery direct start to ‘The Thunderbolt Kid’. A tenuous move off the floor (crux) gains the left hand crimp, then pop to the pocket. Continue into TTK.

Perseus start into Thunder Vision, packs a bit more punch than the original.

Start as for TTK but at 3rd Bolt head right past one more FH and 1 ring then head back left to share anchor on TTK.

How many (space themed) routes can we fit in here? A worthwhile and pumpy addition. Start on Arty's project and cruise all the way over to Red Dwarf to finish as for that route.

The original boulder traverse. Start by stepping off the boulder at the left-most good pockets (as per the start of Event Horizon). Traverse right (tricky at first) and continue low all the way to finish up the start to Arty's Project (to the jug by the first bolt). The flake in the middle can seep, but the wet hole can be avoided by going high (as per the High Traverse) and then dropping down to the 'porthole' before the final crux - only slightly easier. Crux is the final crimpy section to get the sidepull on Artie's start.

Silliness but a good warm-up. Climb Scorpio Low Traverse to the bolt, then reverse Scorpio High all the way back to the start. Bragging rights for multiple laps.

Link Scorpio Low Traverse into Space Race/Red Dwarf for a load of sideways fun. The longest route at the crag (so far), gets a bit of a pump going.

Start as for CoD. Up first 4 bolts on CoD (hangers needed) then step head up and leftward to steep headwall and anchors. Beware of loose rock in the first half, a 60m rope will just get you back to the ground.

Bring your technique and finger tips for this great wall climb. Fantastic unlikely moves up the middle of this fun little face.

Punchy wall and steep finish on left of orange wall.

Batman start on first bolt, or free the fun start move at much the same grade. Up tending right to climb the beautiful feature.

A nice longish adventure through rooflet and up fused seam

Climb the steep corner and feature.

Start 7m left of Hydra - 1st pitch 18m 20. Up wall veering a little right, up crack to ledge then over bulge & thru small roof to ledge with chains – 2nd pitch 17m – 24. Up wall and thru roof (crux) continue up to Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. Can be done as single pitch. BR, cams, nuts.

Arête 5m right of Astro Boy 2m left of Hydra the start of Dead Man's Cave wall. Crux is the first 3m of the climb. Varied climbing up arête, start on right side then switch to left up small slab then back right follow BRs. Belay at 35m at chains to help avoid rope drag then up wall to hanging chain belay. 12 BR, 4 or 5 cams

The real extension to Hydra, pack your big boy pants. From anchors of hydra head up and left towards arête. Before you get there head back right via horizontal break and then straight up via bolt to DBB.

Two pitch extension out of Dead Mans Cave starting 3m L of Tinkerbell's DBB up the roof crack, finishing at the DBB of 'Sky's the Limit'. 1st pitch: 24 (Yet to be freed), 2nd pitch: 21

Start just right of AJJ. Bouldery start off the big horn to nice headwall and chains on ledge. A few cams to place after the crux will help.

Punchy steep start past big move and up techy face. Awesome.

The golden wall with 2 pieces of silver, right of QUASIMODO. Technical and strenuous. In contrast to Room With A View (also by Stephens) which was downgraded, this route was originally graded 22 and is now considered by some to be closer to 24.

One of the hardest routes at the crag. The obvious roof right of CONFIDENCE. A short steep wall, then muscle round the roof, then easier to tree belay. 2 bolts. It's great!

3m right of ‘Disbelief’. Excellent technical climbing. 2BR’s and small wires near top. DBB belay 4m back.

Approx 8m right of Birthday Suite. Left traverse start then up pretty concaved orange wall passing 2BR's and natural pro up top.

SDS at big hueco. Traverse R and up.

Slabby face/scoop right of tree

Hard, use the tiny two finger nubbin, huck for the top.

2m left of the arete. A fine little wall. 2 bolts and a cam. Tree belay.