A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Adrian Ridgley I Skip Crux Holds
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Bingie Bingie
33 in Crag
- 1.1. Bingie Point 17 in Field
- 1.2. Dreaming Stairs 16 in Field
- 2. Index by grade
1. Bingie Bingie 33 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -36.015028, 150.159800
description
Bingie Bingie is an easy access crag where you can mix bouldering with swimming, surfing, fishing, bushwalking, mountain biking or simply sightseeing. It has significant cultural heritage which should be respected. It's a stunning place to be, with bouldering merely the icing on the cake. There is even a ship-wreck!
access issues
None known of.
approach
From Moruya, head south on the Princes Highway for approximately 7 km to the locality of Bergalia. Soon after the Bergalia turnoff, after the overtaking lane appears, turn left onto Bingie Road (signposted Bingie and Congo).
Drive along Bingie Road for approximately 4 km to the tee intersection. Turn right onto Bingie Road (signposted Bingie Point, Eurobodalla NP). Take care from this point onward as there are typically kangaroos everywhere.
Drive for about 500m, just before the gravel starts and turn left into Bingie Road. After about 700m the road turns to gravel. Keep heading straight, past the Eurobodalla NP sign and the Bingie Dreaming Track sign to the carpark at the very end. You will see a Bingi Bingi visitor's information area that contains lots of information on the wildlife and cultural information of the area.
Take the track straight ahead (east) to the Bingie Point boulder field. Take the right hand (south) track to the Dreaming Stairs boulder field.
The picturesque Bingie Dreaming Track (13.5 km one way from Tuross Head to Congo or vice versa) crosses the road 100m before the parking area. It can also be accessed from the parking area by following the Dreaming Stairs access. Climbing at Bingie Bingie can be an interlude when walking or cycling the trail.
where to stay
No camping is permitted on the beaches or at the Bingie Bingie carpark.
The nearest wild camping area is at Brou Lake (NP), around 20 minutes south. No fires are allowed and booking is required. There is also a forestry rest area (Bodalla Park Rest Area) just south of the turnoff to Brou Lake where camping is permitted. The excellent Narooma MTB trails are nearby.
More suburban camping is available at Congo (10 minutes), Dalmeny and Narooma (around 30 minutes south on the highway). Please don't camp anywhere in the Bingie area of the Eurobodalla NP.
ethic
Leave no trace (no bolting, carry out rubbish, don't brush off the lichen, wash off chalk marks, etc).
history
Unsure whether they've been climbed before. No evidence found.
1.1. Bingie Point 17 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -36.012588, 150.162019
summary
In development
approach
Fmom the Bingie Bingie carpark take the eastern trail, left of the Bingi Bingi information sign.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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Hermione BoulderSouthside of point, down on the beach. | ||||||||
2 |
★ Chocolate Mermaid
Start at horizontal break, big right hand move up, then mantle with high left foot. FA: 25 May | V0 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★ Mermaid and the Chocolate Maker
Start on horizontal break. Multiple ways to go, choose your adventure. | V0 | ||||||
Mimosa BoulderFrom the Hermione Boulder, walk about 50m south-west down the beach to near the end of the boulder field. The Mimosa Boulder faces south with orange lichen and a flat rock landing. | ||||||||
5 |
★ Keft Cleft
The obvious splitter hand crack. Sit start. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 20 Apr | VB | 3m | |||||
6 |
Befogged Bridge
Bridge the corner using Keft Cleft for your left foot. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 20 Apr | VB | 3m | |||||
Batavia BoulderSouth side of point, just around corner from Hermione Boulder. | ||||||||
8 |
★★ Life In Beige Direct
Low sit start on RHS slimper jugs (right two). Straight up. | V4 | ||||||
9 |
★★★ Life In Beige
Low sit start on RHS slimper jugs (left two). Bust leftwards to pinch then up face. | V6 | ||||||
10 |
Beige Crack
Start with right hand low in the crack and left in undercling below right hand. A couple of jams will get you to the pocket and continue up from there. FA: 25 May | V2 | 3m | |||||
11 |
Beige Cracker
Duplicate, please delete. | V2 | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★ Wet Dream
On seaside of boulder (south face). Sit start on slimpers. | V0 | ||||||
13 |
★ Gloom In The Corner
South-east corner. Sit start on slopers. Wrestle the bulge and mantle. Note that only the main boulder is in (don't dab the friendly looking small boulder). | V5 | ||||||
Lady Franklin BoulderOn south side of the point, further along from Batavia Boulder. | ||||||||
15 |
★ All Gloom No Doom
Small overhanging face. Low sit start with right hand on good side pull and left hand pressing down on the ledge bit. Exit left or right. | V0 | ||||||
Bounty BoulderRight at the end of the point. | ||||||||
17 |
★ Rum Rebellion
Sit start. Up the butts on the arete (western side) off small boulder. | V1 | ||||||
18 |
★ Self Sabotage
Sit start in side pull undercling thing (eastern side). Follow crack line up face (left side, south facing). | V1 | ||||||
19 |
★★ Breadfruit
Sit start in side pull / undercling (eastern side). Head straight up blunt arete (stay on left side of it). | V2 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
20 |
★ Sharks Happen
Sit start on jugs in left corner of eastern face. meander up face wherever you please. | VB | ||||||
21 |
★ Perpetual Dum Dum Machine
Start by establishing with both hands on slopey rail jug. Note that you must establish before climbing, if you use your momentum from pulling on to do the move, then you didn’t do the boulder. | V3 | ||||||
22 |
★★ The Mystic Twig
Start lying down and pull onto jugs. Up to lip. Traverse left along lip to arete, flop your body around the arete. Easy mantle. Can also mantle the lip at the start for an easier boulder, but the secrets of the twig will remain unknown. | V3 |
1.2. Dreaming Stairs 16 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -36.017013, 150.157713
summary
Under development.
approach
From the Bingie Bingie parking area, take the right (south) track (keeping the Bingi Bingi infrmation sign on your left). Take the right fork after 50m (the left goes back to Bingie Point). After 200m you will reach a grassy clearing. Aim for the seat you see in the distance. The Bingie Dreaming Track joins the clearing on the right about 300m from the carpark. Just after the seat (about 500m from the carpark) follow the track sign left down the stairs to the beach. Snore Wall is to the right at the bottom of the stairs. Take your bearings from here.
history
Developed by Adrian Ridgley starting April 2024. May have been climbed on before.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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Snore WallThis is the slabby to vertical south facing wall at the bottom of the Dreaming Track stairs. The rock quality isn't as good as most of the Bingie Bingie area so take care. There is further potential on the lichenous wall left of Don't Worry See Pappy, but this would require brushing, which may not be compatable with the cultural heritage of the area. Problems are described right to left. Toppos are generally at hand level. Descend the arete on the right to protect the vegetation. | ||||||||
2 |
One Sheep
To the right hand end of Snore Wall there is a set of three weaknesses. This is the left of the three with a fragile flake at the top. Hard sit start then easily up. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr | VB | 2m | |||||
3 |
Two Sheep
Half a metre left of One Sheep. Start with your hands in the horizontal. Straight up face avoiding the hollow flake at top. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr | VB+ | 2m | |||||
4 |
★ Three Sheep
This is the twin shallow cracks just right of the boulder in the sand. Up the cracks to awesome jug handle top-out. Sit start is VB+. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr | VB | 2m | |||||
5 |
Snore
The deeper crack left of Three Sheep, above the boulder in sand. Sit start off boulder using the undercling knob. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr | VB | 2m | |||||
6 |
★ Fingering The Nose Flute
The bottomless crack between the boulders in the sand. Sit start. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr | VB+ | 3m | |||||
7 |
CPAP Smear
The face with crossed weaknesses 1m left of Fingering The Nose Flute. A powerful undercling sit start relents to an easier face. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr | V0- | 3m | |||||
8 |
★ Don't Worry See Pappy
The right leaning weakness on the lichenous face left of CPAP Smear. Undercling sit start with hands following the weakness. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr | V0 | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Chock RockSouth-west of Snore Wall there is a group of boulders with a massive chockstone sitting on top. This is Chock Rock. Problems are on the south side. | ||||||||
10 |
★ White Horses
Start right hand side of chockstone. Sit start to hand jam. Reach over the bulging chockstone and walk feet up right ramp. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr | V0 | 2m | |||||
11 |
★ Wild Turkeys
Different. Sit start left of the chockstone, up left face via a crimp ledge. Sit rest on chockstone, face outward and reverse mantle to top. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr | VB+ | 2m | |||||
Dr Dream BoulderTo find Dr Dream Boulder, turn left at the base of the Dreaming Stairs and walk north around the coastline towards Bingie Point. Walk for about 200m, past the point with the cool, pink rock intrusion, to near the end of the boulder field. Alternatively, from the Bingie Bingie carpark, follow the Dreaming Stairs access description to the grassy area. Before the seat you will see a gully to the left (east). Follow any track to the beach after the gully. Dr Dream Boulder is the tallest boulder at beach level. Problems listed right to left. | ||||||||
13 |
★ The One Chance Dance
The face just right of Day By Day. Hands (and elbows) free. Toppo drawn at foot level. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 20 Apr | V0 | 2m | |||||
14 |
★ Day By Day
Start on the right of the north face. Undercling layback the aesthetic, left leaning line. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr | VB- | 3m | |||||
15 |
★ Ballbearing Blues
The middle of North face between Day By Day and Night By Night. Sit start on finger jugs then pleasant smearing. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr | VB+ | 3m | |||||
16 |
★ Night By Night
The splitter finger crack on the left side of the north face. Sit start at lower flake. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Mar | VB+ | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 |
★ It Begins With A Blessing
The left arete of the north face. Start right of the arete with both hands on lowest ledge. Mantle to establish on wall before moving either hand to the second ledge then top-out. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr | V0 | 3m | |||||
18 |
It Begins With A Blessing Sit
Sit start to It Begins With A Blessing. FA: 25 May | V1 | ||||||
19 |
It Ends With A Curse
Open Project. The perfect splitter finger crack through rooflet on the east side of Dr Dream Boulder. | 3m |