Bomaderry Creek Guide

sit start in the scoop and head directly up vague arête

Makes Joe, Joe Dynamo (Lot 33) feel like a walk in the park. Consensus upgrade from V11.

Start in the break under the low roof. Big move out to slopey lip, then straight up to finish.

Start as for 8 Bit Hero, moving right toward the hanging arete. Top at first break.

Crouch start on good sloper. Move under roof on slopers to small undercut/sidepull, massive move to roof lip, find shallow dish on face. Foot magic (toe hook maybe?) to gain other dish. Heel hook (maybe?) to gain finish. Looks in the V12+ range. Open to whoever can do it...

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Sit start and up on good holds to finish on the jug.

Sit start and traverse left on the big undercut to join in to the crimps on 'Harder Than You Think'.

Start as for 'Project 2 Nowhere'. Move right via pockets to an airy finish. Bad landing, pads and spotters recommended.

Sit/crouch start and straight up via a tough move near the top.

Stand start the ledge. Straight up via slopey crimps.

Start at the ledge for Burnt. Move up to the crimps then left to the middle hold of Two Big Moves. Finish as for TBM.

Stand start on the ledge. 2 big moves straight up.

Stand start on Slopey Traverse and head straight up via pebbles and small sidepulls. Thin. V7+ maybe?

Stand start on the jugs. Traverse right on the slopey break. Hardest V4 in the world... Can be done either direction.

Stand start on the jugs. Move right to the big flake then straight up. Slopey top, tough when warm!

Stand start and up via tough moves.

Stand start on the lowest rail. Move up and traverse left to finish as for "No Discernible Graffiti".

Stand start and straight up.

Obvious juggy warm up traverse with some crimps, starting as 'Un-named V6' and right to the start of 'XD'. V2-3 or solid V6 start for 'XD'?

Sit start on flake move up via sharp holds down low to tough moves up top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Sit start at rail and head right for some funky throws with big holds. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Same as for 'NSK' but jump left to jug instead of up to sloper.

LH crimp that you use to throw to the finishing jug has snapped. There is still a hold there but probably goes at a harder grade * Starts right where the blue Lot 33 graffitti is. Awkward start to gain the sidepull/undercling with your RH. Then a long move LH to a shallow pinch, cross over with your RH to a pocket. Then up to the sharp LH crimp and a throw to the jug to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!*

Stand start on 2 crimps for a big RH throw to a sloping hold. Then LH out left to sharp hold and again a big move with the RH around the bulge to finish.

Links 'I Want To Be A Pumper' into the finish of 'The Crotty'.

Start as for ‘Klockwork Orange’ and finish as for ‘Stargate’.

More consistent start into the finish of the next problem. Upgraded from V9 following the broken starting hold.

Links 'Stargate' into 'I Want To Be A Pumper'.

Harder start than the previous problem but the same big throw to finish.

Start as for ‘The Crotty’ and finish as for ‘I Want To Be A Pumper’.

A worthwhile line that skips the first move of The Crotty.

Sit start as per Unknown, but don't go up to large jug and jug pocket (these are eliminated). Instead, from the good crimp rail, head right to join and finish up The Crotty.

Hard first and last move with a big throw from the underclings to finish.

Eliminate. Start as for Unknown. From the huecos, move right through pockets to jug on The Crotty, then back up and left to jug and finish.

Variant to Unknown. From the huecos, move RH to pocket and LH to good edge, nice move to jug and top.

Dyno from the 2 huecos to the jug.

Sit start on the big jug. Move right via crimps to the rail, then big move to the huecos. Move upward to finish.

Start as for Unknown and finish as for Nappy Nuggets Traverse.

Start as for Nappy Nuggets but keep climbing right following line of holds right then back left to rejoin. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Diagonally up the wall to a tricky gaston move to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Starting at 'Nappy Nuggets' trending left. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Sit start on big jug, move straight up via a tough jump to the hueco then to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Sit/crouch start on big undercling. Big move out left to fridge hug your way up to the pocket then usual finish at the jug. Ledge on the ground is NOT in.

Start at Sexy Rexy traverses right all the way to finish up Nappy Nuggets. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Sit start on the flake. Move right via undercut to the big moves fridge hugging up to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Sit start on the overhanging flake. Move up the good holds then out right to the hueco and finish with the big move. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco.

Slot currently broken. Much much harder now.

The lower link up into "Special Delivery". Worked for some time by CWP who thought it would be V14.

Links into 'Special Delivery'.

Low sit start at the back of the roof, big moves out following the break in the roof.

Link from the start of "56ft Back" and "Fed Ex" left along the low roof overlap and into "Pissy Missy". Looks in the range of V12-V13.

Start matched on a good hold, go RH to sidepull, some funky footwork and then LH up to jug in roof. Up to the pocket and same move again to finish.

Start of "Worm" right into "Pissy Missy".

Very crimpy, very hard looking project from the start of "Worm" straight up into the scoop. Old Paul Westwood project.

Start one hand under the roof on the decent undercut and one hand with the hold on the lip, traverse left and finish up "Joe, Joe Dynamo". Originally started under the roof with 2 undercuts which is now broken, starting one move higher brings the grade down from the original v14.

A big jump from a huge jug to another huge jug - the business is controlling the swing! The landing is a bit dodgy so pad it out and have a spotter.

Stand start as for Corporate Takeover. Move up and right to top at decent edges.

Crimpy stand start, up on crimps and sharp undercut to top at flake and dirty edge (no match).

Sit start at the rail, big mantle up to the sloper. Then move up to finish with a big move to the hueco. The corner is often full of cobwebs but this is well worth quickly brushing them away.

Far left bolted line on the face.

Alec Landstra

Highball at far left end of Lot 33. Tops out to Lot 34. Stand start on 2 edges, move up into roof and committingly top out around the bulge.

Stand start and climb the hanging arete.

Undercutting stand start right of arete, move straight up via presses and ledges.

Dyno from shallow jug left to ledge. 165cm

Dyno from shallow jug straight up to top of ledge. Hard. 196cm

Start low well inside the cave sitting on the rock. Birth your way out of the cave and mantle. Any rock is in.

Start as for Apparently They Can but instead of dynoing, head right via good crimps and finish back at the pocket.

Stand start at the slot and the slopey break, head up to the flake then dyno high to the pocket. Obviously, shelf to your left is out. 148cm

Now on ring bolts

Eucalyptus pilularis, commonly known as blackbutt, is a species of medium-sized to tall tree that is endemic to eastern Australia.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Extra bolt added in runout. Add a little spice (and interest) to the climb with a more direct start - you don't need to do the big right hand easy move if you work out a little sequence.

The very obvious orange streak up the middle of the vertical wall.

Rebolted August 2012

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

5m left of Slurry Whipping. Line of RBs over bulge to double RBs.

Two excellent and very different boulder problems. Soft if you can crimp. Start about 5m L of the wet chimney.

Another Nowra steep ultra-hard project abandoned, circa 1990's? Come along and claim it!

Clip the low belayer's bolt on the left so the leader doesn't get knackered by the rope when dogging the crux.

The line just right of lucious, a sandy start leads into some tough but good bouldery moves through the roof, finishes up Aloha.

Direct (even harder) start to Beefmeister?

Start as for Frosty and at 3rd bolt move leftwards towards the small cave directly under the roof, blast directly through roof.

Bit of a debate about the grade, seems 32/33!! Start as for Frosty, at the major break where frosty continues upwards, veer left via some awesome bouldery moves.

Classic steep Nowra climbing. Don't pump out after the crux - it has been done!

Another Nowra steep ultra-hard project abandoned, circa 1990's? Come along and claim it!

Start as for Comin' at ya Pundi, through initial crux, then out left past a hanger under roof to finish up the final moves of El Maco.

Start as for Parasite past the crux the head left through El Maco to finish up the crux of Frosty.

Parasite into the finish of El Maco via the cool 'la rose' move. Sustained.

Start as for Shaker Fries. Keep traversing left to the Beef Meister anchors.

A classic of the wall. Tricky crimpy start but persevere as the jugs of glory aren't far off but that's when the pump really sets in. Gentle on the flake, it probably needs to be fixed. While the routes to the left stay dry in the rain, the first half of this route seeps.

The far right hand climb, up pockets and out roof to a final reach to clip the anchors.

Extension to Old, Fat and Married.

Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot!

Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot!

Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot!

Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot!

Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot!

Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot!

Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot!

A route lost to the jungle.

A route lost to the jungle.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

A good line that shares the first two rings of 'Maintain The Rage' before veering slightly left and up the wall and finishes up 'Black Flag'.

Up BB for 3 bolts then go straight up.

Start: Start as for BB.

Excellent bouldery first move, then just plain excellent. Start: Start at the cheatstones 5m L of SB.

Classic South Central climbing! Do the start dyno of Brown Badge, then head right past a couple independant bolts to join Spermies, and finish at its anchors.

Same first move as Brown Badge, then head right to finish all the way up ANS. Originally bolted by Rob Lebreton

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

Up ANS for a few bolts then, instead of veering R to finish, keep heading left for a few more bolts through steep territory just left of the arete, finishing just R of 'Brown Badge'.

If you love pumped forearms then at the last bolt (before anchor) traverse left to finish up Brown Badge.

Start: Start as for Ain't no Sunshine.

Has been called the best 28 in the world. The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors.

Start: Start below the obvious hanging arete.

Angie Scarth-Johnson (11)

Heel hook your way up to the third bolt (strenuous clip). Throw for the lip, grunt, then continue to the top holds trying not to fall whilst clipping. Awesome!

Right hand exit to dungeon master, keep right after the first jump around the lip and finish up the slab.

Up obvious corner to wild traverse rightwards on roof. Very underrated thrashing.

link up of sex machine into scum

Not the original start but rebolted and fun. Start up Art is Fucked and head left at the rail for 2 bolts. Finish up to rusty looking chain or add some extra excitement and go up to Crime is Art anchors.

Start halfway between Strike and Silver Hands. Straight up through bulges. Finish at Strike anchor.

Bottom is protected by either boulder pads or the first bolt of Silver Hands. Top protected with cams.

Was once the hardest 17 in the known universe.

They come from far and wide to feel the pockets, stroke the slopers, and clip the chains. Now it is your turn to join the masses and see why Silver Hands is number one in the world.

The obvious mega classic sit start to the most popular route in the world. Warm up your tendons first this 17 is a little spicy.

This also stores the current record information for the Silver Hands speed record. Silver Hands but speedy. Top rope speed climbing Silver Hands. Rules: One foot on the ground and you only have to slap the chains. God speed.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Don't be put off by the lack of chalk, this climbs really well and is more straightforward than the other 23s here.

If you are finding this tough, just remember that it is a 21 at south central.

One for the Kneebarers, starts a few metres left of Cheese Gobbler up via a couple powerful moves and cruxy kneebar into the quality roof and head wall.

Well in the 9th

Tom O'Halloran

Extension of Cheese Gobbler that goes all the way to the top of the cliff via a whole bunch of hard independent climbing and then the top of The Big Cheese. Original vision by Robbie, new vision and execution by Tom.

Mark McGivern

A crazy extension to Metamorphosis climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. Endurance test piece.

Daniel

Climb meta to the last bolt then head left to the ‘jug’ rest on baby cheeses and do it’s final crux before finishing up the big cheese.

Old projects, maybe Paul Westwood?

Old projects, maybe Paul Westwood?

Insane! A line of holds just happens to lead into the belly of the big roof, meeting the Big Cheese for the final few moves at the lip. The star destroyer shaped roof is brilliant pocketed sandstone.

The original project before Curds of Prey was found, the huge undercling at the lip looked so inviting. A cool sequence to turn the lip, then traverse left along the juggy red stone to the apex of the cheese wedge. Clip the chains on The Wheel of Cheese, then top out!

Traverse across the brilliant white rock in an excellent position, crossing the bulge to a fine headwall. Extend the clip on the bolt before the steepness to avoid excessive drag.

Start as for Spicy Cheese but head left and up through the cruxy bulge to follow the S-shaped line. Keep going all the way to the top of the cliff. Fun climbing, lost a grade recently due to new holds being discovered at the crux.

A fine morsel. Start as for Spicy Cheese and finish at anchors halfway up the wall.

Start at the flake below the offwidth between Cheesemonster Wall and the bouldering. A slightly mingin start leads to excellent featured climbing on a great angle. A finger endurance test piece!

Start on 'ankles away' then head right through multiple roofs to a ledge before the unique 'bowl' crux and final roof. Wait for a dry spell and take some long slings.