Raptures Wall Mostly Trad climbing 18 routes in cliff

Walk along the ledge until large blocks make you have to scramble over them... Above these blocks you will find the rap anchors.. Maybe clip a few of the bolts to keep in contact with wall and not allow you to end up in the drink... It's a mixed climb take a double set of cams to size 2 and a 3 and 4 are needed also...

You may have to set the bottom belay at a height that suits the swell size...

Amazing climb in an amazing location. Rap off lower bolt from Rock Lobster and Dodged a bullet, Abseil 10 metres to the next ledge, stay on the rope and walk 4 metres to the edge and rap a further 30 mtrs to the belay.. You will pass the 2 bolts for the top belay and then a further 2 bolts at the bottom... You will be about 5 mtrs off the water when your at the belay. You can also start this climb from the big ledge at sea level, by traversing left (trad) and up to the original belay anchors. Use a double set of nuts as protection with a smattering of small and medium cams. Due to the tough access and remote feeling be solid with your grade or leave a fixed rope and carry prussics.

Either start off the main ledge near the corner "Puffin" or rap as per Tinder Surprise to independent belay anchors.. Small to medium cams at start and then bolts to the top. Crux at mid height.. Highly polished rock will make this climb harder with humidity.

Major trad corner - starting from the left end of the ledge perched 2m above the ocean. The top 3rd of this route is a loose vegetated hillside and ruins what is otherwise quite a good route.

Rap down as per Tinder Surprise.. But as you rap down head to your right about 2 mtrs.. You are looking at Salty Dawg on the wall to your right..

Ridiculously fun jugging through the steepness. Turn the lip and burst out into the sun and climb the orange headwall to the anchors.. Take in the view whilst you belay... Pitch two is the short traverse "2 bolts" to the anchor of Tinder Surprise..

First three bolts of Dream Weaver then head left over the lip of the roof. Then the crux is on the immaculate orange rock of the head wall.. Wires and small cams protect the easing top section to the anchors..

The name is originated from the Diamond Python i used to rap over daily we became good friends☺

Start off the main ledge, just before it narrows. Climb steeply through and around the bulges... Take small wires and small to medium cams for the middle..

A long wall route that goes all the way to the very top. Start at right hand end of ledge. Up carefully to first bolt or get some early trad protection in. Route finding is pretty difficult and the location is demanding. You should be fairly pumped when you get to the next bolt 20 mtrs up! Bring a full rack, doubles of cams and wires. The rock near the top is a bit choss but the gear is good (if you still have any left on your rack!). Not recommend if this grade is your limit.

Surprisingly popular despite the exotic location for the grade. Depending on the swell height, belay either at water level or on a ledge about 8m up. A fantastic climb from a great position. Abseil from the first set of rings.

A good face crack - with heaps of jugs on either side for most of the way up. The very final move through the slick bulge is certainly the crux! Scramble up blocky stuff to rap rings. All trad.

Steep corner 3m right of Raptor, starting on small ledge about 2m above the ocean. There are double rings to belay off. Stem the juggy corner that gets more fused the higher it gets, until forced onto the face on the left wall - then finish through a couple of steep bulges. Once the good rock ends, scramble up the blocky vegetated hill for 10m to belay from rap rings (shared with Raptor). This is a mixed route, take at minimum a single set of cams from finger to fist size (doubles of #2 camalot) + single set of wires and a few long quickdraws. This route was partially retrobolted by mistake, after the first ascentists didn't write up their all-trad ascent.

Superb hanging arete to the right of The Fish Book with slick orange rock. Mostly bolts, but still requires a single set of finger to hand sized cams. This is quite a pumper! (who wants to try the first DWS ascent?). Like the other routes on this wall, once you get to the top of the good steep rock you need to scramble up easy blocky terrain for 10m to the ledge. This route was partially retrobolted by mistake, after the first ascentists didn't write up their route.

The most sustained of the routes on this side of the wall with excellent rock and quite a few shiny ringbolts. It's still a mixed climb though, so bring a single set of trad.

Climbs the far right edge of this wall. Starts out innocently enough up great orange pockets - and finishes with a tricky move through the bulge on slightly suss rock. Mostly trad - 1 or 2 bolts at the finish.