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Access issues inherited from Passchendaele State Forest

Please refer to https://www.hqplantations.com.au/our-plantations/plantation-closures for any relevant temp-closures in the future of the area. "HQ Plantations" corporation act as a land manager for all the bouldering locations listed below. They operate as "Plantation Licensee" under the terms of the "Forestry Act 1959", and are thus obliged to permit, but not necessarily promote, recreational access. However, climbers should understand that the primary purpose of a State Forest is timber extraction rather than recreation, and HQ Plantations have legislative authority to restrict recreational access from time to time where timber harvesting operations presents a hazard to the public. Furthermore, HQ Plantations are required to recognize all roads within the licence area as public roads. However, they have authority to temporarily restrict access for the reasons already given. Please recognize the authority of any signage that restricts access. Please obey the instructions of the Plantation Officers who patrol the area. Should you feel that any restriction is unjust or unwarranted, contact ACAQ, president@climb.org.au, and we will take up the matter for you.

Routes

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Grade Route

Traverse left from jug rail

FA: Peter Crane

Oliver Rickford

FA: Peter Crane

Start with right crimp jump up left and for slopey crimper and squeeze, stand start with opposing crimps for V12 variant

FA: Corey Batten, 28 Jun 2020

FA: Peter Crane

Stand start the bulging slab with sidepulls. Channel your inner gecko to find a way up. Beautiful.

FA: Oliver Rickford, Apr 2023

FA: Matthew Cochrane

Right variant of CPB. Stand start on the right side with sloper LH and Rh Gaston. Finesse the bulge along the horizontal crack into CPB.

Jsbc

FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Dec 2020

Start in the small gully, matched low on the rail. Move up to a row of crimps and throw to the lip and mantle to top.

Oliver Rickford

FA: Peter Crane

Scramble up the ramp towards the chokestone, bridge the gap until it’s possible to step across the void on to the arete. Descent down the squeeze chimney.

FA: Kyle Addy, 20 Dec 2020

FA: Matthew Cochrane

Right and left hand crimp feet on and jump to left sloping rail.

FA: Matthew Cochrane

Warning Rock: Starting hold flexing

A short but burly sequence up the bulge. Start in a sit with the crimp rail.

Oliver Rickford Jsbc

FA: Peter Crane

Left of CIZG 2m’s. Start right of the burnt stump on the Boulder far left end. Stand start with high LH coral crimp. Up the slab you go to a breezy mantle.

FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Dec 2020

FA: Peter Crane

FA: Peter Crane

Originally a sit start problem on a low undercut(V4) (believed to have been ripped off sometime in late 2019/early 2020). This route is still a well worth doing stand start. Hands wide to start for a compression move to gain the bulge and up. Now more like V2/3. Careful of your right arm on the initial moves a fall back and right past the tree would be bad for you!

FA: Peter Crane

Up the sandy corner to the left of "Gravity Project"

The offwidth roof crack formed between the boulders of the Gravity Project and Brahe's Bubble. Start on the other side in the hand crack, then through the roof offwidth to fist crack, and find your way up

one of SEWQ's hardest lines, sit start. Detached left boulder is out.

FA: sam bowman, 28 Jun 2020

The left leaning ledge/arete running up the right lip of the gravity boulder. Start just left of the large Stagshorn Fern (avoid damaging at all costs!). Follow the lip line up and left until you reach the highest point where you turn the mantle to top out.

FA: Joseph Law, 16 Aug 2020

Stand start with juggy crack. Dynamic long move straight up. Have patience and figure it out. Maybe hard for the grade for the short.

FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Feb 2023

Sit start with underclings, a big move to a small hold with a glorious top out.

Set: Oliver Rickford, Apr 2023

Stand start with LH on a good sidepull, find your way through a pleasant sequence up.

FA: Nick Foulds, 16 Aug 2020

Stand start to the left of 'Orbiting the Sun' on obvious holds and climbs straight up face.

FA: Brendan Fraser

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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