Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Sit-start with side-pull and flat edge. Womp! Sitting on the little boulder to reach holds makes for a fun start.

Sit-start on the arete using slopers. Series of squeeze to gain the mantle.

Sit start under the leaning off width crack. Yes it's as much fun as it sounds. Try not to break your arm.

Sit start. Classic style fingers and layback crack.

Great Holds, sit start.

Sit start the left bulge. Rh good finger jug. Lh on sidepull. Mind the fall.

1 star - Same start as Overexposed but go straight up.

Stand start off positive crimps, worth doing.

2 stars - Super classy line that shares the sit of The Chur-nobyl Project

The big boulder directly to the right of Higgs-Boson

Sit start deep in the overhung crack, jamb your way up to a nice mantle.

Oliver Rickford

1 star - Crank up over the left end of the boulder on slopey crimps. Can climb into it from a sit start all the way under at V4.

Sit start compressing the arete, move up and top out the left side.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start under steep short pillar. Climbing the right side.

A fallen living tree is now blocking this line.

Same start as Incognito, but pump directly up through the steep up to the blocky feature.

Sit start on the low ledge. Tricky feet and big reach over. A contrived version goes further right at V4.

Climb out of the hole, very cool

Jump start worth doing.

Start from the high crimps. Establish on the face and reach the top for an easy mantle finish.

Sit start Lh low on arete, Rh on low block. Pull on and slap to the top.

Sit start Rh micro crimp, Lh on slopy crimp on arete. Make some moves and go up.

Sit start Rh on incut crimp, Lh small crimp. Up on slopes, bust out left and mantle

Sit start as per Green Pants but mantle direct. Avoid using the meat wrap of Green Pants for full value.

Sit start as above. Cool sloper moves to mantle top.

From the corner arounnd to the left from the Space Control start, reach out right onto the right rising rail. Commit to traverse to the Space Control jug.

Start matched on the obvious undercling in the dank cavelet. Burly move up to good jams at lip and turn the corner. Will need to build a landing or have moist pads to send. Probably quite hard

Sit start up the arete.

Sit start and straight up vaguely eliminating the jug out right.

1 star - Sit start and big throw left to the smaller edge, and rock up.

Start on high crimps right on the right end of the wall, and up using the arête.

2 stars - A great Auburn River line. Very height dependant.

Sit start.

Middle line, good fun.

Sit start on small crimps, make a move to the lip and mantle.

Squat start matched on meat wrap. Make some improbable moves to a mantle.

A tad contrived but fun. Start at Grand hotel but clip the left bolt. Climb up the face on small pockets to a stance on the left, then continue up the face past gear (offset nuts) and a bolt to the DBB.

number 3 BD is needed for the start.

Starting from the low right ledge with hands on the large shelf, 1 easy move left to gain the face wall, exclude all but the first right hand decent foot, straight up the face without the large left hand or the right arete. thin but it's all there. Eliminate problem.

Sit start to the left of the obvious crack. Using side pull and large pinch hang for 2 seconds and then up to big jug above your head, exiting to the right at the highest point.

Start as low as you can on the left side, testing the water temp with your toes. Pull on to left arete and the low right sidepull before working your way up and across to the right in a balancy traverse without using the top edge. Top out on the far right as for I Camembert It.

With the water below there isn't really an option for laying down pads so a foot slip will likely see you take a splash.

Moves as for Beneath the Barrel but starting slightly higher with hands matched on the crimp rail above the lip. Still almost a sit start but cuts out the first two slaps leaving you to enjoy the blind throw for the jug and the mantle.

Start with hands on the flat ledge. Move right to layback/grunt the giant flake to bring yourself around to top out on the pedestal at mid height. V0 downclimb on the right slab. Bring your big guns, or big brain, for this one.

Sit start with both hands in underclings. Go up.

Whale Wash but start matched low on the rail.

Oliver Rickford

Start far right as per Spider Spook. Traverse left into Whale Wash mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start in the middle of the boulder. Rh on side pull, Lh on small crimp, shoot to the top.

Oliver Rickford

Start on the bookmatched underclings in the middle of the block pressing in to high left foot. Mantle top out after balancy move using unlikely pinch.

Sit/low start hands on angled edge. One big move to the high ledge and away.

Sit start on long rail, same as Spider Knees

Sit start as for Space Jared. Traverse left to before making big move up to massive huge enormous King Kong size great big long wide glory jug rail and then mantle.

Can be done the high way (hitting the lip then moving right to the slopey jug as seen in the Oliver Rickford clip) or the low way which traverses the lip and is slightly harder. Awesome either way.

Oliver Rickford

Start with LH of single ply's horn and right hand on crug. Move up and to the right to gain sloper before topping out directly up.

For a fun eliminate try dynoing from the sloper to the horn and then topping out without touching the jugs on the face.

Sit start with both hands on rail. Move up and right through pockets and diagonal rail to top out.

Climb Inspiration linking into Mind. Climbing mind in reverse

Start same as Imagination climbing through Subconscious into Conscious, following Conscious and continue across Mind until you reach top right hand corner and end of cave

Climbing Subconscious Linking into Mind

Starting in the corner just to the left of 'Little Wednesday'.

The overhanging fist crack between Big Friday and Passage.

Finish as for Passage. Plenty of gear is available in the passage section so resist the urge to clip bolts for maximum Trad Lass/Lad points.

Scramble up to the base of the orange scoop. Clip a piece of history (!) before moving into the scoop proper and the first of four UBs. Good moves take you up and L to the zenith of the scoop and small rooflet. A little corner caps things off. Lower-off.

Start 4 meter left of 'Fatman Scoop'. Follow the shallow rib till you hit the break. Rock over a rooflet to get to the anchor. Unfinished, needed to recharge.

Initialled. Starts at the L of the white scoop. Up thin vertical flakes. Move L onto the big protruding horn, FH. Hard move up and onto the face with BR. Up tending R to the cave and through the centre of the roof (hidden BR). Take assorted wires and slings.

The R route with three rings. You'll want to stick clip the first one.

Start: 2 Metres left of 'Prima Diva'

Climb the crack on natural gear to the juggy 1m roof. Clip BR around lip, then pull through to face above. Up to ledge. Final wall (BR) to tree. Rap off. At the moment it's vegetated and needs cleaning.

Start: Starts about 15m L of "CAC" at crackline running through the middle of the wall below the roof.

Contrived, but fun variation to Celluloid Hero. Climb to the right, keeping bolts on your left

Cue the 70s porn music. Up wall to ledge below roof (2 BRs), then great roof jugs past a FH. Move around the lip (crux) and clip the second FH then onto ledge with double ring rap station.

Scramble up to starting platform as per the next route, and continue scrambling up the gully a little. Stick clip first bolt on left wall of the gully. Climb the right trending rings to high anchor at the top of the wall.

Feeling kinda sporty?

Start: The thin wall 3m L of corner and 2m R of arête.

2m R of AWITG. Filthy and lichenous. To see any action this route would need a thorough cleaning and bolting. Starts at the obvious undercling then straight up the wall on worsening slopes. Crux at 4.5m.

A couple of metres left. This climb has a very obvious face up the top covered in hundreds of pockets. Tricky overhung start past an RB onto deceptive slab with smallish SLCD. #4 SLCD in wide break, then up and clip SOT's RB out L with long sling. Now that excellent pocketed wall with 2 more RBs to the top.

As for SOF to second RB at pocketed wall. Up a move or two then veer L to arête. Up this exposed arête.

2m L of SOT, moving up through the large undercling (FH). Over bulge (FH) and finish as for SOT (up the arête past a BR), alternatively gain an extra star by finishing up SOF's pocketed headwall.

A varied and technical classic. Start up overhanging corner L of SOT. Power up past first FH to break and obvious SLCD slot. Continue past 3 FH's. Difficulty in reading the sequence makes this a good onsight.

1m L of HAS and just R of the obvious roof. A very hard start then up passing four BR's.

Well-named route setting an unpleasant precedent (slots at the start of this route have been chipped - totally unacceptable). After blank wall, through overhang with some acrobatic moves. Two FHs, two BRs.

More herb unethical chipping.

Fantastic climbing through steep territory on edges of vaguely Africa shaped plate. Up and over the lip trending L and up to recently installed rap station/lower-off.

Start: Start in cave at right end of point pure, stick clip first bolt.

Slightly to the right of Barroom Brawl. Start on the pockets and pull up onto the slab. Follow the juggy flakes up into the roof & around the lip to anchors.

Subtle arete with shallow gritty scoops and slab to finish. Technical with a gritstone feel. There used to be a tree growing next to this route and one of the bits of pro was slinging it's branch! The tree is now long gone and its now protected by 4 ringbolts.

Further around from SE is a set of L-leaning twin seams. Climb the L one into vegetation. The top needs a clean.

Follow Figjams parallel crack until possible to blast straight up for the triangular feature and mantel out. Sinisters anchor to the right. Great holds and gear.

A variant to a 4 metre route?

Doesn't see many ascents, might actually contain okay climbing under all the lichen but nobody can say for sure.

Start: Start 2m left of TJC

Powerful overhung climbing

Start: Start 2 metre left of 'Awesome Wells' directly below ledge and anchors.

The line of ring bolts at the far left end of Wolf's Lair, about 10m L of Bio Logic. Through a small rooflet, then up a blank corner/face, to rest beneath the roof. Swing out the roof on jugs passing two rings and an optional #3.5 SLCD. Pull the lip (no pikers!), and finish hands-free on the ledge. Double ring anchor, but due to drag easier to back climb or top belay and second to clean.

Up the orange face, through roof to lip (but resist the urge to mantle it!). Traverse the lip the entire way, joining TGIS at its anchor (hidden from view). Seven RBs to lower off.

A pumpy endurance number. The smooth flake starting on the very far L and traversing R (remember, no bottom ledge). At the end, drop down to the next flake, then a long move past blankness (crux) and continue to finish on little prow.

What a whopper of a move! Start 8m right of previous route. Reachy moves all the way, shorties be warned! Balance your way up to big moves above the roof then continue past several ring bolts to anchor.

The overhanging arète on the left side of this sector.

Campus start with powerful moves continue right to technical arête passing 3 RBs mantel to top out belay off 2 RBs

Climb out left passing 3 RBs then mantel to top out belay off 2 RBs.

Technical start to crux with a pumpy finish

Start as per holistic Detective Agency stand start but deviate from this route mid-height rightwards to a lunge for the horn and mantle out.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start with right hand in jug and left side pull. Head straight up.

Sit start on slopy crimp and arete undercling. Straight up staying under the jug rail to mantle. Top crimp just below the rail is in.