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Circus Boulders

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 84
7
BLDV

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
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D

Description

Three Boulders the middle one resting on the other two.

-27.539606, 153.043892

The Boulders East of Trapeze Boulder and west of Warmup Boulder

Access issues inherited from Toohey Forest

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

Approach

Access easiest from the Toohey Park picnic area car park. Take the first R path as you leave the shelters and BBQ area. follow this trail until it meets the tarmacked route above (leads to a dead end lookout). Do not follow this tarmac but take the path immediately over it down the opposite side into the bush.m You will come out above the large boulder of Area A, turn left from the base of that boulder heading east and the Circus boulders will be in view within 5-10 meters.

Access from the east west tarmacced track above the main area. Walk most of the ay to the Lookout region at the western edge and when you see the northern track heading down to the carpark take the hill opposite heading south into the bush. You should find the Trapeze boulder easily, head east from it to find the other circus boulders.

History

History timeline chart

Surely been looked at by other climber before and one hold broken off one of the boulders suggests some previous attempts to climb one at least of the three. But brushed and cleaned on the 12/06/2020 by Nick Foulds and Tatiana Proboste and 3 routes (acrobat, contortionist and tumbler) done and established on this day.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start with the L foot either left of the tree on a good foot hold or for the shorter climber right of the tree on the low poor lip. Left hand on the high good ridge and right hand low on the large hold at the base of the boulder's lip RHS. Find your balance points and up you go.

FA: Nick Foulds, 12 Jun 2020

Good value sit start. Start on low good edge and up the Acrobat on slopey crimps.

FA: Alex Mougenot, Aug 2020

Starting with the right hand high on the good sidepull, left hand low at the bottom lip of the boulder stand up, use your feet and gain the good holds at the top lip.

FA: Nick Foulds, 12 Jun 2020

There looks to be a tough sit start version to the reverse acrobat. Felt tough but possible.

Set: Jack Mullaly, 3 Aug 2022

Sit start with hands in the good crimp and opposing undercut beneath it, powerful move to the juggy shelf above. Left hand around the corner to the left and gain the top.

FA: Nick Foulds, 12 Jun 2020

Interesting balance point sit start with a good R hand side-pull. From the start figure out your way directly up the face to the lip. Careful spotting may be wise if you are uncertain on this one.

FA: Nick Foulds & Tatiana Proboste, 12 Jun 2020

Start both hands on small ledge to right of main ledge. Move up right hand side of boulder without touching Contortionist rock to right. For harder variation, start as per Tumbler.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 8 Jun
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