Routes in Australia for selected grade

Right of Noggers And Joggers, climb crack to small stance, then arete. I am guessing this is the short crack leading to the same ledge as the corner of Off the Beaten Track.

Two good pitches with quite a hard start.

1. 40m (16) There are two ways to reach the layback flake, either head up left from the base of the wide crack or climb directly up the pocketed slab. Follow the layback flake to face above on right and now up and right to main corner. A good ledge at 18 metres can be a good belay. The corner gives easy climbing to a ledge where it ends.

2. 35m (12) Straight up steeply for 5 metres then up wall above, starting on right.

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

1. 40m (16) As for 'Full Moon', belay on ledge below a short steep wall.

2. 15m (13) Across left on ledge to front of buttress, where a beautiful little corner leads to terrace.

3. 25m (13) Climb left side of pale yellow wall (left of FM p2) and up prominent diagonal line. Through bulge and on to top of pinnacle.

Detached pillar on left end of 'Bonsai' Buttress.

Wall 2 metres left of 'Winterset'.

Hero thinks this might have been done earlier by Noddy.

Start: The clean line 50m right of 'Courting Daze'. (A large dead conifer leans against the cliff nearby).

A wandering route that isn't worth it. Start 5 metres right of Behemoth below box-groove.

1. 30m (15) Up for 5 metres to ledge. Traverse left then climb next line to blocks. Move left and up thin bulging crack and wall to ledge.

2. 25m (15) Step left around left arete of face then up 2 metres and step back right. Move up and right to finish.

A major line with lots of scary loose blocks. Start 5 metres right of Behemoth below box-chimney.

1. 25m (15) Climb easily across The Bishop's Crook into box-groove which is followed to loose flakes. Step left and up wall to ledge.

2. 25m (15) Follow line to steep yellow section. Step left below main overhang then up and back right above it, finishing up right.

Some nice moves. The gear is poor until the V-groove is reached but the climbing is easy to that point; better protection is available for the harder climbing.

Another OK climb that's in the shade on a hot morning. Shares the good start of Off The Shelf and takes an easier logical finish just left of the easy corner. Good rock and protection.

Face left of "Armageddon" to orange bulge which is turned on right. The bulge has been taken direct at 20 via a line half a metre left of this one.

A steep, pure hand-crack splits the front of the second outcrop at the base of the gully.

Up past hole and up arete, through small steepening.

Start: Squeezed between the 'Prelate' and 'The Priest' (ooh er).

Delightful moves up wall and thin bottomless crack 2 metres left of "The Priest"

Requires a bit of a grope around the bulge. The line about 3m left of The Archbishop. Groove to bulge, then on easily up to scoopy wall and upper wall.

The little crack on the right wall of the gully around left from Lema Sabachthani has a hard start. Clipping the first bolt of Apron Strings might be tempting.

The poorly protected start makes the left arete of Mason's Apron a serious lead.

Boulder up tiny smooth bulge straight to the peg on Gulp. Go diagonally right (in Mullumbimby Madness for a move), pull bulge then left to incipient cracks 2 metres right of Gulp.

Good climbing with a committing bulge at 7 metres. Start 1 metre left of Bostok at 2 vertical seams.

Hero writes: "I'm reasonably sure the route Klaatu, Veradu, Nicto by Sedgie, et al was done by Richard Smith and I in early 'September' 2001 and we gave it 12." (Note that the name Klaatu... was later re-used at Christmas Walls)

Start At the left end of the wall below the pinnacle. Up moving right to the bulge. Up.

Start as for Father Perrill. At the bulge move right a few metres and up. Can be climbed direct too.

Start 30m R of OTOM at a small block sticking out at the foot of the wall. Up awkwardly onto horizontal, on up to jugs and at the main horizontal move left to below bulges and up.

Start: The small crack up the front.

Large broken left-facing corner about 30 metres left and uphill from 'Cuscus'. Continue up crack in wall.

Head around the nose right of Ringtail, through a little col above the pinnacle of Pygmy Possum, to wall facing Campbell's kingdom. Fairly good corner that used to have a star once upon a time so we've given it back for luck.

Steep grey crack starting from ledge up and left from Pygmy Possums. Faces back towards Fairy Glider.

Chimney leading to overhang and crack on the pinnacle at the foot of the ridge.

Over bulge then easily up to steepening. Up right onto arete, over loose block, then back left to finish.

Start: Start 15 metres or so right of 'Foxtrot', in middle of next buttress down right.

The most obvious line at Fox Rox. A grade 18 direct finish to this route was written up in May 2005 Argus by Trevor Wall, Vince Waters thinking it was a DF to "Dead Fox". It's not clear wheer the DF goes, possibly high up the righthand wall.

The central steep line on the lower section of cliff.

One of the better climbs on the outcrop. At the right end of the cliff is a closed gully. Start on the right wall of the gully at a steep and slightly left-leaning line, obscured low-down by a beautiful casuarina.

Start on the left wall of the 'Swingtime' gully, about 4m from the back of the gully.

Start about 40 metres left of 'Swingtime', 40m right of 'The Grinch', and just left of a gully next to what looks like a small pinnacle.

Sedgie also used this name for his route near 'Mean Green Bean Machine'.

Probably the best climb on the outcrop. Starts 15 to 20m left of 'Victoria' C. Woodhull at a prominent corner crack with a hanging flake a few metres up.

Climb the corner crack past the flake too an overhanging crack on the left and up.

Start: Start at 'Slay Rites'.

Once gaining the ledge, move up and step left to gain the crack on the face and up.

Start: Start as for 'Tinsel Town'.

Climb crack for 4 metres. Surmount clean-cut, triangular overhang to ledge. Up shallow groove and line (I'm guessing that this top bit is shared with Plumber's Crack).

Start: Start 3 metres left of 'Perpetual Motion' at sloppy initial Z

Unusual and poorly protected first pitch.

Start: The climb proper starts from about 5 metres up the gully which starts about 6 metres of 'Spontaneous Combustion'. It is probably best to belay at ground level rather than a few metres up the gully.

1. 35m (15) Scramble 5 metres up the ramp/gully until directly below a big pine tree. Follow lovely groove straight up to tree.

2. 45m (-) Bridge to corner, then straight up.

The best line on the cliff with some great climbing in the corner. However the start's a bit unsatisfactory and it wanders off left at the finish. Originally the route had a belay out on the left halfway up the corner but the anchors are poor : an ancient peg and not much else so this belay has been omitted.

Note that previous guides gave the route length as 62 metres despite the listed pitch lengths adding up to 72 metres.

Start: Start at an open groove below the obvious large corner. This is 3 metres left of 'Mr Crab'. There is a square-cut, wide corner 3 metres further left.

1. 15m (15) Climb up for 10 metres to orange bulge, which is avoided on the right. Move back left to small stance at foot of corner.

2. 30m (15) Delicate moves to start then sustained climbing up corner until a traverse left to a big ledge.

3. 24m (-) Chimney on the left.

More interesting wide crack stuff, best in it's lower half, with the top losing the line and gaining the usual moss.

Nice looking crack.

Satisfying moves all the way. Would be well-trodden if it was beside 'Minimus'.

Start: Reddish seam on left side of outcrop about 40m right of 'Dark Ages'.

From behind the pedestal just left of the gully in the recess, go up the line in centre of face to a small roof(and, presumably, over it)

A distinctive wide crack with an overhang 2 metres left of chimney.

The line at the left end of the wavy overhang.

Up the thin crack in the orange section to 'THE' bucket. Step left below the bulge and up the line.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Bonsai'.

Climb up left edge of smooth grey wall on the west side (approximately 4m from north arête) through left end of overhangs to finish via right hand of two cracks.

Scramble around the bottom of the broken buttresses for about 50 metres to an undercut, leaning stack. The steep southwest arête.

Three metres right of the chimney. The steep crack through the bulge at the top.

Five metres right of 'Aware'. The steep right facing flake crack.

A good warmup before heading up to the terrace. Starts left of Fractionally Flamed and follows the juggy steepness. 5RBs and rings to lower.

First line of bolts, to the left of the start of the access traverse.

Link up. Climb Easier Puzzle and after the fourth bolt trend up and left to join Green Moon at the fourth bolt.

Originally a trad route retrofitted with 4RBs some time prior to 2015. Takes the middle of the three warm up lines at the start of the fixed rope. Finish at anchors for HSHM.

Start 2m right of central crack on buttress slightly downhill and right from 'Sunraysia'. Up through thin start to pockets and past technical finish to tree belay.

Start 4m right of dirty roof hand crack and right of 'Tatiana'. Follow weakness through thin start to under roof. Watch for loose rock. Traverse left 2m and finish at tree belay.

The first bolted line you come to on the approach track. Wrestles its way up the arete on the left end of the wall. Rings at belay.

Tricky start then cruisy yet thought provoking face climbing. Clip and lower anchor. Sun from late arvo.

Just R of the large gum. Easy fun on amazing holds with just one tricky but very well protected move. Clip and lower anchor.

Crack between the two sport routes to 10am anchor. Fiddly.

Quality climbing on a nice wall at a very fun grade. Clip and lower anchor.

Originally onsighted with barely any gear and and a terrifying second pitch through the death flakes. Now a fun easy sport route.

Use the two cracks to gain the ledge then up nice face above. Say hi to the stone baby guarding the belay.

Starts 3m to the left of the first bolt on The Cubans in the corner on nice jugs. Supersedes Toby’s trad route Mortein Pig, which climbed up the right trending ramp after the initial corner to the Anchor on TC.

Novelty route! To keep the grade consistent at 16 crawl through the hole into the cave and tie in from there. Rings at belay.

Start 1.5m left of 'To Be Young'. Work straight up the jugs until you hit ramp. Work right up ramp and over. Thin gear.

1m. right of Free Hanging. Take shallow cracks right of FH's to pocket, move to orange rock and straight up, finish at shallow V at top. Don't use boulder to start.

The third route with this name in the Grampians! Next crack in the block after Phillip. Crank up crack and over middle of the bulge. Gear is thin. Originally climbed by bailing right into 'Elizabeth' under the bulge 02-12-2006.

The wide crack right of Philip. Take a large cam (Camalot 4+).

Nice wall climbing up the left leading flake on the wall right of 'Elizabeth' finishing up the short hanging corner. Worth doing.

Why was this bolted? 1m right of the previous route. Single FH up very short wall. Better to boulder this one.

Sit start in the corner to the right of 'Not Drowning, Waving' and climb up the crack.

Sit start and climb the right diagonal up to the corner and extremely high top out

Sit start and mantle straight up.

This starts just left of the corner that is around left of Sweet Sue. Go up the line that heads to a break in the roof at the very top. Finish up the exposed, but easy, chimney.

This starts 6m right of Keith’s Route and 2m left of Sweet Sue. Head up the overhanging crack until a ledge is reached, step left and climb the wall above until it’s necessary to move onto the arete, then continue up.

This starts a few metres left of Bridget.

1. 20m (16) Go up diagonally and left on the face below the tiered roofs until the cave on the arete is reached.

2. 20m (12) Head around the arete to go up just left of it.

This is the line in the centre of the wall right of Strumpet.

Start as for Aunt Glad. Head up to the bushy ledge then climb the right-hand flake on the right wall of Aunt Glad, and then finish through the overhang.

Start as for Companion Route. Upon gaining the arête, step left onto the face. Ascend the flake to the top.

This starts between Underhung and Deflowered

1. 15m Climb the short V-corner, then go up the wall above past a suspect-looking block until the right end of the belay ledge is reached.

2. 15m Climb the face from the right end of the ledge, go up the overlap, and then finish up the overhang that is just right of the prow.

Step right onto the undercut face and diagonally right to a bushy ledge. Up slightly left to an enormous ledge. Continue left to corner and steep brittle crack above.

Start: Start on the buttress on the other side of the gully opposite and 25m left of Alias at a small cave.

Up corner to ledge. Past a gooseneck and into the next corner and up.

Start: Start 5m left of Why.Com at the right facing corner (the left of facing corners) with a block at 8m.

Major crackline 100m right of 'Oils Well'. Take right fork at top to big gum (abseil).