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Otford

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 11
16

Seasonality

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Description

A sandstone sector with a few large scattered sandstone blocks and some small cliff sections. There is plenty of boulders and rock waiting for FA’s and new lines. All projects are open.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Park at the Bald Hill lookout on Otford Rd. Walk up and over the building following a short grass patch before finding a walking track, then walk north until you see a cement water tank on your left.

Follow a faint track past the tank and a faint track leads 50m up a hill. The first big boulder you will see is the Survival Boulder. All the other boulders and cliffs are scattered north from this point.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start in small cave, mantle up to jams before buckets. Beware loose rock at the top. Tree rap. Camalots 1 to 4, doubles of smaller cams useful.

Punchy start to some fun offwidthin.

Camalots 2 to 6. 5 or 6 not needed but makes it nicer.

FA: Kai Buckman & Dylan Hill, 21 Jun 2023

Tough start next to tree to pull onto ledge before hard flared offwidth.

camalot #5

Stand start, using a good high right hand flake thing work your way up the arete to an exhilarating top out.

FA: Jesse P, 5 Sep 2021

Stand start, hard first moves to gain crack and easier top

Stand start on undercling flake and then up

Sit start on obvious finger jug, thuggy move to join into Stick it to the spider. Named after the huge spider that rapidly crawled out while levering a loose flake off.

SDS, staying right of the crack work your way up pockets and good edges to top out.

FA: Jesse P, Sep 2021

Stand start, straight up to top out via pockets, crimps and edges. Fun.

FA: Jesse P, Sep 2021

Sit start, both hands on jug rail and work your way up good edges to top out staying on the face.

FA: Jesse P, Sep 2021

Stand start, using good slot to start move up through crimps and good edges to the break, then go for the top.

FA: Jesse P, Sep 2021

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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