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The neglected area of Sydney cragging, strange considering the quality of rock and recent finds like St helens Park bouldering, the big Junkyard Cave and the Hide Away.
In the 70's and 80's a bunch of routes were done at the Woolwash at the back of Airds near Campbelltown, short cracks and mossy slabs mostly done on top rope. A rough guide was done but it lacked details and descriptions.
In roughly 2011 and 2012 Byron Glover set to work on the quality rock and cave of the Wedderburn and St Helens Park bouldering areas finding some absolute gems in the process. Steep and pocketed on quality stone, V3 - V11, easy access, who wants more?
In 2012 Matt Brooks went looking for bouldering in the area after moving nearby and getting a copy of the then new Sydney climbing guide - south of the harbour.
He found the new sector to the Woolwash, the Junkyard Cave with its water polished sandstone and classy steep routes, some that would be quite at home in the Grampians (not in Suburban Sydney).
In early 2014 he also discovered the Hide Away another quality sandstone offering on the banks of the Georges River with a variety of sport routes from 12 - 28 and the 20m roof of the Ghetto Superstar.
With the amount of rock along the length of the Georges River there are sure to be more discoveries.
Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint
Date: 2023
With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.
Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.
Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9780645299908
Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.
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Mon 29 May
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