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Old Time Boulder

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 48

Seasonality

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Description

This is the boulder uphill between Boulder 1 and Boulder 2 with a steep face on the downhill side and a large vertical face

Access issues inherited from Tasmania

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Approach

Just uphill of Boulder 1, around 45 seconds from the car.

Ethic inherited from Tasmania

Crag Stewards

Many Tasmanian climbing areas have Stewards assigned as a point of contact for safety or access concerns.

For more details and the list of Steward emails please visit: http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Introduction+to+Tasmanian+Climbing

Statewide Ethics

  • The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted​

  • Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

  • Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

  • For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday

https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start on the left arete, follow arete and top put

Start in the slot in the middle of the face, head up via bad slopers and head left to a good crimp at 2/3rds height, then top out as for left arete

Sit start in the lowest two slots in the middle of the overhanging face and head straight up to the lip before punching right to the jug of ‘Old is the new sexy’ careful not to fly down the hill. Crucial hold broke off in 2023, has not been repeated since

Sit start with both hands on the good incut crimp, head up the right arete via some hard initial moves and committing but solid top out through lip towards the middle of the boulder

FA: Tommy Krauss, 11 Oct 2021

Start as for Old Is The New Sexy, head right around the arete on sharp crimp and finish straight up the headwall as for ‘comfortably numb’.

Start left hand on undercling, right hand on thin sloper, up left to gaston and good flat edge, then back right to undercling and upwards into the swoop. From here, stay on the swoop and head straight up for a hard and committing finish.

FA: Jordan Grant, 23 Jan 2022

Stand start on V-Shaped crimps in the middle of the face and head straight up via good edges and sidepulls, from the big jug around 1.5m below the lip head straight up via good crimps and mantle

FA: Steve Postle, 11 Oct 2021

Start as for Coffin Dodger but head right via good sidepulls to join arete at half height, stay on arete to the top and mantle via highest point.

FA: Tommy Krauss, 11 Oct 2021

Sit start the arete on the right and finish as for Grey Beard

Stand start on the left side of the face, trending right using the flake

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, Dec 2021

Delightful face climbs just right of the centre of the face. Use the flake on the right to gain the flat jug in the middle of the face, then an exciting top-out on the arete up right

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, Dec 2021

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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Sun 28 May
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