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description

The best route on the buttress. Based on a prominent flake down low and a R facing flake/corner running the middle top third of the buttress with some slabs in between.

  1. 48m Up and R to flake in the middle of the buttress. climb this and continue up slabs to the L end of a large ledge.

  2. 41m (Crux) Diagonally L for about 6m then up to overlapping flake and a bolt. From the small stance continue up until a step R between prickle bushes gains a small stance.

  3. 35m Up and L a bit to a good crack, then flake/corner to ledge on the L (Piton belay)

  4. 25m Clean corner and crack to the top.

Route history

1963First ascent: Peter Jackson & Steve Craddock

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -37.38273, 145.74288

Grade citation

13 Assigned grade
13 Pocket RockGUIDE: Melbourne's Best
13 Eastern District Guide

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 64 from 81 ratings.

Difficulty - 13

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 6 ratings.

Suggested Grade

13

Based on 6 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 42
Flash 5
Red point 8
Tick 32
Attempt 1
Target 1

Comment keywords

flake slabby easy epic pockets face sunny interesting scary runout crux great good sweet super enjoyable classic cool nice fun exciting beautiful lovely awesome

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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