A diamond in the rough for the Illawarra escarpment. Great rock, stunning views, shade from morning onwards, 20min approach, spacious belay ledge and a high concentration of quality climbing, what more could you ask for.
Double smoked is truly one of NSW's best at the grade, don't believe us you'll have to see for yourself
Many of the Wollongong crags are located in the Illawarra Escarpment State Conservation Area (IESCA). This region has had a chequered history in recent times, with large swathes of popular crags having to be closed after it was missed that a new NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) Plan of Management (PoM - 2018) had incidentally banned climbing along most of the escarpment. After a lobbying effort and a stroke of coincidental good luck an amended plan of management has been published (2023), modifying the plan to allow rock-climbing “… on the west- and south-facing cliffs of Mount Keira and on cliffs north of Bulli Pass."
Access comes with caveats and all climbers should be aware that that “… new bolts or anchors may only be installed with NPWS consent, and park infrastructure such as safety railing may not be used as anchor points as they have not been designed for this purpose. NPWS will not install, assess or guarantee bolts or other fixed protection points. Participants in these activities are solely responsible for their own safety.”
Given the pressures many rock-climbing areas have been under around Australia and the plethora of access issues that have followed it is imperative that climbers respect and heed the access requirements. Access granted can easily be access taken, noting from the PoM: “Locations where rock climbing and abseiling are allowed may be reviewed and altered to address safety issues, risks to visitors or impacts on cultural values or environmental values. Temporary closures of rock climbing and abseiling locations may be applied to limit impacts. Permanent closure of sites may also be necessary. NPWS will consult with representatives of the local climbing community before implementing any permanent closures.”
Please refer to the ‘Ethic” section for more notes on how to be a good steward for the climbing community.
Along the Forest Track, walk to (-34.263139, 150.958500)
There is a small sign talking about the rainforest gully. Walk 5m past this and take a right turn heading for the big boulder. Pass the boulder on the left and scramble toward the cliff edge. (30m from the track) There will be a tiny fixed line and rap chains here. It is roughly 25m to the ledge (Most routes start here at these chains) or a rope stretching 30m to the even lower ledge (this is used to access the Old Man of Oi, Sea is rising and the ground i.e. Vegemite Wall).
Easiest exit is Silly - Lichen or Old Man Of Oi (More time consuming)
In the worst case scenario it is possible to scramble out of the escarpment roughly 400m south (under the powerlines). There are basically zero ways in which it is a better option than simply prussicing out your fixed rope.
The modern climbing scene and all the access issues that go with it requires modern ethic and all climbers should familiarise themselves with general good crag etiquette to ensure access is maintained into the future.
The following is a short summary for the area:
Learn more at https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
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theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question★ Old Man of Oi 18 - Looking down on pitch one
Chris Lam on ★★★ Double Smoked 21 - IMG_9967-2.jpg
Dylan Tubaro at The Penthouse - P1049720 1.jpg
Wall on ★★ Boogie On The Balcony 22 - IMG_2237.JPG
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