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The Penthouse

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Description

A diamond in the rough for the Illawarra escarpment. Great rock, stunning views, shade from morning onwards, 20min approach, spacious belay ledge and a high concentration of quality climbing, what more could you ask for.

Double smoked is truly one of NSW's best at the grade, don't believe us you'll have to see for yourself

Access issues inherited from Wollongong

Many of the Wollongong crags are located in the Illawarra Escarpment State Conservation Area (IESCA). This region has had a chequered history in recent times, with large swathes of popular crags having to be closed after it was missed that a new NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) Plan of Management (PoM - 2018) had incidentally banned climbing along most of the escarpment. After a lobbying effort and a stroke of coincidental good luck an amended plan of management has been published (2023), modifying the plan to allow rock-climbing “… on the west- and south-facing cliffs of Mount Keira and on cliffs north of Bulli Pass."

Access comes with caveats and all climbers should be aware that that “… new bolts or anchors may only be installed with NPWS consent, and park infrastructure such as safety railing may not be used as anchor points as they have not been designed for this purpose. NPWS will not install, assess or guarantee bolts or other fixed protection points. Participants in these activities are solely responsible for their own safety.”

Given the pressures many rock-climbing areas have been under around Australia and the plethora of access issues that have followed it is imperative that climbers respect and heed the access requirements. Access granted can easily be access taken, noting from the PoM: “Locations where rock climbing and abseiling are allowed may be reviewed and altered to address safety issues, risks to visitors or impacts on cultural values or environmental values. Temporary closures of rock climbing and abseiling locations may be applied to limit impacts. Permanent closure of sites may also be necessary. NPWS will consult with representatives of the local climbing community before implementing any permanent closures.”

Please refer to the ‘Ethic” section for more notes on how to be a good steward for the climbing community.

Approach

Along the Forest Track, walk to (-34.263139, 150.958500)

There is a small sign talking about the rainforest gully. Walk 5m past this and take a right turn heading for the big boulder. Pass the boulder on the left and scramble toward the cliff edge. (30m from the track) There will be a tiny fixed line and rap chains here. It is roughly 25m to the ledge (Most routes start here at these chains) or a rope stretching 30m to the even lower ledge (this is used to access the Old Man of Oi, Sea is rising and the ground i.e. Vegemite Wall).

Tie knots
in the end of your rope and if you're not confident in climbing out FIX A ROPE! We do not need any more accidents on the escarpment, Also, WEAR HELMUTS!

Easiest exit is Silly - Lichen or Old Man Of Oi (More time consuming)

In the worst case scenario it is possible to scramble out of the escarpment roughly 400m south (under the powerlines). There are basically zero ways in which it is a better option than simply prussicing out your fixed rope.

Ethic inherited from Wollongong

The modern climbing scene and all the access issues that go with it requires modern ethic and all climbers should familiarise themselves with general good crag etiquette to ensure access is maintained into the future.

The following is a short summary for the area:

  • The Wollongong area has a historical mix of sport, trad, and bouldering, with fully bolted sport routes emerging as the dominant form in the last decade
  • Do not bolt or rebolt existing trad or bouldering routes
  • No chipping of the rock to alter the difficulty of a route or create new routes. Loose or dangerous rock may be removed with careful discretion
  • Top rope and lower-off through your own gear. Fixed anchor protection to be used for final lower off only to minimise wear
  • Minimise excessive chalk usage and make brushing of holds a regular routine. Consider using alternative chalk colours to minimise visual impact
  • Do not bush-bash new access trails, stick to existing marked trails where possible
  • Do not remove vegetation, both from around cliff bases and on the cliff. Brushing down built-up lichen, dirt and chalk off existing routes is acceptable maintenance
  • Do not leave rubbish or gear at the crag. Gear left may be confiscated by NPWS
  • Respect any announced closures of tracks, cliffs and areas in the region
  • Don’t play loud music at the crag, consider the amenity of nearby climbs and non-climbers alike
  • Speak up against anti-social behaviour, unsafe behaviour, or other activities that threaten access – contact your local advocacy association - ACANSW
  • Rebolting shall only be carried out by suitably competent and trained persons. The minimum standard is 316 stainless U-bolt or ring eye-bolts with pure epoxy glue. Refer to http://www.safercliffs.org
  • Remember you are responsible for your own safety, and the safety of your friends!

Learn more at https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 18 20m
2 18 20m

Great little multi combining good movement and awesome position. May feel a tad adventurous to anyone used to sport cragging. Technically also the easiest way out of the penthouse but be warned, far more sustained in difficulty than the Silly - Lichen linkup.

Access to the start:
Rap 7m down from the Double Smoked belay (24m below cliff top + the 7m extra) to gain the low ledge system with the fixed ropes. Traverse south about 24m, fixed ropes protect the first 12m followed by another 12m of unprotected ledge traversing. Scramble around the corner and up through some vegetation and you will find the first bolts to your right.
  1. 20m (18) Begin on the slightly dirty buttress following the ring bolts out of the jungle and up the knife blade arette. Belay on small ledge or continue on in one mega pitch.

  2. 20m (18) Continue following the rings up past the vegetated ledge mantle and burley rooflet all the way to the exposed finale. Belay from the double U's directly ontop of the cliff (awkward) if your partner is not confident or alternatively use the single U bolt on the block 5m away (much more comfortable, although communication is more difficult).

A long adventurous pitch that allows access between the ground (Vegemite Wall) and The Penthouse.

From The Penthouse:
Rap 15m from the chains to the base of Stairway to Heaven. Traverse 40m to the south clipping the bolts every 5 or so meters. Belay from trees at the big dirty ledge at the end. Locate fixed lines on the south end of the ledge to descend to the ground.
From the ground/Vegemite Wall:
Up fixed lines onto big ledge. belay from trees as leader traverses back north finishing up the easy featured slab. Splitting this into two pitches is a good idea as falling on the slab (rock failure is very likely) would be very dangerous with 40m of rope out.

From the belay of Double Smoked (chains on the left of the penthouse ledge) Rap 15m (continue past the first big ledge, passing on its north side) down to a lower vegetated ledge. Crimpy climbing leads up good rock back to the first ledge, belay here or continue up to the main penthouse ledge. This intermediate ledge is a good alternative place to belay for Double Smoked, Now Your Cooking and Boogie On The Balcony if the higher chain anchor is busy.

They say the sea will have risen roughly 250m by the time this line sees a send making it a futuristic deep water solo.

This cracker of a route is about as good as they come. Varied, sustained and outright unique in every aspect. Belay from the chains on the far left of the main ledge. Say goodbye to your partner as they traverse over space and into the outrageous double dyno. After completing the mental crux, save some brain power for the next move and don't forget to enjoy yourself all the way to the anchors!

FA: Dylan Tubaro, Wall & BP, 29 May 2020

Launch up the bouldery start (beginning at the chains) taking the left line of bolts at the break 3m up. The exciting headwall continues to impress. Lower off from the single U bolt or mantle onto the big ledge (Double U's) and second your partner up.

FA: izzy bradley, Wall, Dylan Tubaro & BP, 29 May 2020

This classy pitch will require your technique and endurance. Beginning at the chains, climb the bouldery start shared with Now Your Cooking taking the right line of bolts at the break. Lower off the first bolt of Ernie Dingo in the Attic or redirect though it and belay your second up to big ledge further over (not redirecting the rope though here will lead to a big swing should they fall on the last moves)

FA: Wall, Dylan Tubaro & BP, 29 May 2020

The easiest way out (once you make it to the high ledge) and not a bad little ramble at that.

FA: Wall, Dylan Tubaro & BP

Sweet little pumper with some decent exposure value. A good alternative to I'm Lichen This or a great link from the top of Boogie On the Balcony.

FA: Wall, Dylan Tubaro & BP

Link the beginning of Silly-Cosis into I'm Lichen This for an easier less sustained finish.

An epic line that blasts straight up the centre of the overhanging headwall and easiest direct line from the belay ledge to the top out bolts. Bit of everything, cruxy start into jug traverse into pockets, slab then pumpy overhanging victory jugs to the top!

FA: Wall, Dylan Tubaro & BP, 14 May 2020

Classic technical crimping on great features with a sustained and pumpy headwall. Top out on the diving board for the full tick or lower off just before if you like having a functional danger noodle

FA: Wall, Dylan Tubaro & BP, 29 May 2020

Are you a crack head or a face slapper? Up the short overhanging finger crack, then traversing left and up the headwall. Lower off or adventure up and build your own anchor.

FA: Dylan Tubaro, Wall & BP, 31 May 2020

Short but intense sending up the end of the bright red overhanging wall on the right side of the Penthouse.

FA: Billy, Wall, Max lee-abbott & BP, 12 Jun 2020

CLOSED. Project in action. Corner just right of When the Shooting Starts.

Intense slab climbing up the vicious looking crystal laden wall next to “When the Shooting Starts the Looting Starts”.

Fun technical climbing with lots of rests. Start up the Crystal Pistol for one bolt and right along unique traverse including cruxy down-campus SLAB move (clip the bracket straight after to protect the second). Then up wall and slappy bit. Belay possible off double bolts on ledge at end of traverse if you want the belayer to hear you on the top moves. Lower off double Ubolts at top (then pull rope and reverse traverse a bit), or go into bushes 5m to 2 fixed hanger belay.

FA: Mikl Law

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