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Hochalmspitze All Trad climbing 2 routes in area

2
UIAA
5-5+6

Seasonality

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Summary

The Hochalmspitze (3,360 metres above the Adriatic (11,020 ft)) is located east of Mallnitz in the Austrian state of Carinthia. It is sometimes called "Tauern Queen" (German: Tauernkönigin) as a counterpart to the "Tauern King", the Grossglockner.

Approach

From the Gößkarspeicher (1707m) via the forest road or cut-off to the Gießener Hütte (2215m). Continue via the Rudolstädter Steig, which leads to the Steinernen Mandln. At an altitude of about 2800 meters you leave the path and continue to climb pathlessly in the direction of the south pillar. Via the "Trippkees" you reach the foot of the south pillar.

Glacier equipment required.

Descent via Dettmolder Grat or Steinerne Mandl back to the Gießener Hütte possible.

Where to stay

Possible at Gießener Hütte (2215m).

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
6+ ★★★ Traumfänger Mixed trad 350m, 10, 37
1 5-
2 4+
3 5
4 6+
5 5-
6 6+
7 6-
8 5
9 5
10 3

The route is about 50m to the left of the old south pillar route. The start is about 10m to the right of the lowest point, at a crack with one bolt. Follow the bolts afterwards. All belays are bolted, except the last one when you arrive on the ridge.

FA: W. Gugg, M. Haas, H. Bogensberger & R. Huber, 2005

2
5- ★★★ Südpfeiler Trad 280m, 8
1 5-
2 4+
3 4
4 4+
5 4
6 4
7 4+
8 3

The route is about 50m to the left of the old south pillar route. The start is about 10m to the right of the lowest point, at a crack with one bolt. Starts with the same pitch as Traumfänger.

Classic alpine route on the south pillar of the Hochalmspitze. All belays must be set up inidividually and most of the protection must be placed with cams/nuts.

FA: Kollnit, Kuchar, Raditschnigg & Wigisser, 1929

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Im extremen Fels

Author(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler

Date: 2023

ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2

Hört, seht und staunt - alles in allem warten hier 120 Pause-Touren! DAS ultimative Werk für Extremkletterer und für alle die von den ganz großen Kletterrouten der Alpen träumen (wollen).

Im extremen Fels - Die "legendären" Alpinklettertouren in den Alpen

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ⓘ
Longlines - Die ganz großen Klettereien der Nördlichen Kalkalpen

Author(s): Adi Stocker

Date: 2014

ISBN: 978-3-95611-022-1

Auf den 44 000 für dieses Buch recherchierten Klettermetern mischen sich epochale alpine Meilensteine unter genussreiche neue Routenkreationen. Kletternde Legenden wie Albert Precht, Klaus Hoi oder Heinz Zak kommentieren ihre Leidenschaft für den steilen Fels. Routen von Klettergrößen aus lang vergangener Zeit, wie Angelo Dibona oder Hias Rebitsch, sind den modernen Anforderungen entsprechend genauestens aufgezeichnet. Und auch den neuen, mit Bohrhaken abgesicherten Routen von Kreativtalenten wie Ralf Sussmann, Rudi Kühberger oder dem Autor selber, ist viel Platz gewidmet. 40 lange Routen mit mindestens 20 Seillängen, in denen man dem Zeitgeist entsprechend Bohrhaken klinken kann, aber manchmal auch mit maroden Rostgurken Vorlieb nehmen muss.

Buy
ⓘ

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5- ★★★ Südpfeiler
6+ ★★★ Traumfänger

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