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Routes in Acephale for selected grade

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Showing all 9 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Lower Wall Left
5.13b Conception

Set: Maddy Marchuk, 2019

Sport
Lower Wall Right
5.13b Naissance de la Femme

Spectacular, technical climbing on bullet limestone, rises in difficulty. One of the best of the grade in the country.

Sport 24m
Upper Wall - The Mirror Stage
5.13b Five Hole goal

Climb immediately right of Swelltone Theatre- ascending onto a ledge, backcleaning quickdraws to reduce drag. Shallow pockets in bulging grey stone define the cruxes.

Set: Ryan Johnstone

FA: Evan Hau, 2011

Sport 28m, 13
Upper Wall - Bataille
5.13b The Angry Inch

From the top of Dales Extender, execute one really hard move off a mono. This route might be a very fast tick if you have tendons of steel! It might also end your climbing season......

FA: Jd LeBlanc, 2000

Sport 25m, 11
5.13b The Hype

Start to the right of a yellow corner capped by a roof. Follow the blue streak on edges and pockets to a high crux. Manufactured and glued.

FA: Jd LeBlanc, 1997

Sport 23m, 10
5.13b The Hood

From the shattered ledge, head up to the horizontal break and veer left. Difficult moves in the overhanging lead into a scoop. Finish with easier climbing on cool pockets. This boulder problem is probably the most tried 5.13 in Alberta. Basically a v8 boulder problem.

Set: Jd LeBlanc

FA: Todd Guyn, 1995

Sport 18m, 9
Upper Wall - The Pavement
5.13b Each one, Teach one

Short cruxes separated by good rests lead to sustained climbing, a stout deadpoint move and a dicey edit onto the upper slab. A final tough move below the anchor keeps things interesting.

Sport 29m, 13
5.13b Cochin Gronchon

The last route on the far right of the wall. A viciously crimpy and technical crux at the second bolt stops must suitors in their tracks. If you survive this section, easier climbing with plenty of rests leads to a heartbreaking finish.

Sport 12m
5.13a/b Jump You Prick, Jump!

A vicious v7/v8 boulder problem off the ground into a great 12a. Not Classic.

FA: Scott Milton

Sport 20m

Showing all 9 routes.

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